Canter FG649 SWB Camper Truck Build

Bris31

Adventurer
2 in the centers are 50x50mm, rest are 50x30mm.
Hopefully this week will see springs fitted, more bracing, rear pivot, paint etc and engineer cert later.
 
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SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Maybe it's just me, but seems very lightweight for a subframe, especially if you are going down the 3 point mount route, which it sounds like you are.
 

gait

Explorer
doesn't it depend on what's going on top?

and I don't understand why 3-point is expected to be less lightweight, I would tend to make it lighter as it's "torque free"
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
doesn't it depend on what's going on top?

and I don't understand why 3-point is expected to be less lightweight, I would tend to make it lighter as it's "torque free"

Hi Julian,

Trust you are well.

If it's 3 point then the base frame needs to span the considerable distance between the front and rear points. If spring mounted then the base frame is resting down on the chassis rails fully supporting the load and therefore there is no span as such to contend with. IMO you can get away with a lighter base frame....surely the main runners can be smaller.

Kind regards John
 

gait

Explorer
we'll just have to agree to differ John ....

thanks for asking - the tablets keep most of whatever it is I have at bay, better than a year ago.

As some sort of dubious reference, our double bed is nothing special 20mm fibreglass foam sandwich supported only along the edges. I have a sneaking suspicion that fibreglass sandwich floor would span 2 - 3m without steel support (the mounts don't have to be at the ends of a 4m box. Our 4mx2mx50mm foam sandwich roof seems to survive ok.

I also struggle with why "most" sub-frames have steel along the long edges, I guess it depends if the sides of the box are structural.

But mostly, it really does depend on what's on top of the sub-frame as well as how the sub-frame is attached to the chassis.

I guess my picture is that we are somewhere in a transition like that in which cars with chassis became monocoque. Perhaps a bold question for this forum, but really "why do we need a sub-frame?". And hopefully the answer isn't "so we can attach tanks". :)

Sorry Brij, looking good so far!
 

Amesz00

Adventurer
I guess my picture is that we are somewhere in a transition like that in which cars with chassis became monocoque. Perhaps a bold question for this forum, but really "why do we need a sub-frame?". And hopefully the answer isn't "so we can attach tanks". :)

When Coach Designs started doing MAN 4x4s they didn't use full subframes. Those first few vehicles had quite a few issues with cracking apparently.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I guess my picture is that we are somewhere in a transition like that in which cars with chassis became monocoque. Perhaps a bold question for this forum, but really "why do we need a sub-frame?". And hopefully the answer isn't "so we can attach tanks". :)

Interestingly, the ATW Global Warrior doesn't have a steel base frame at all either....at least not in a typical sense. More like you describe as a monocoque with the underside of the composite floor moulded / shaped so that it marries to the chassis of the truck.
 
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Bris31

Adventurer
Visually frame looks sleek and it is progressing, though slowly. Springs are yet to be delivered and installed, then the final paint. Anyway given the experience of the engineering workshop in making rural water tankers on spring mounted frames and the design seen and approved by certified engineer, I should have confidence in the engineering side, though time will tell.

Thanks guys for taking interest in my build. It is interesting to see the discussion and different views which gives insight on various approaches in this regard. .

Today measurements are taken for the panels, so need to spend some time on the internal design and the location of windows, door, hatch doors etc.
 

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Bris31

Adventurer
Progressing slowly.
Steel water tank being fitted in.
Slight mod was needed to twist the air intake box so that frame can go 50mm lower and 50mm forward. Air intake duct still need to be sourced.
 

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Bris31

Adventurer
Of the many advantage of this forum with technical people around - one is free quality control.
Guys thanks for your thoughts :26_7_2:
I think mechanic mentioned relocating the drain valve. Will post the photos when available.

PS: but keen to hear any other solution, thanks.
 
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Bris31

Adventurer
Time to post few photos.

After considerable delays, it is getting some shape.
Panels started going up.
 

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