What batteries do you recommend?

amo292

Adventurer
Hello all. I am curious to know what batteries you all use in your rig?

Before my battery dies in the near future I am looking at replacement options. I currently have some off brand one that I had to buy in a pinch a few years ago.

I put a lot of stress on my batteries so I need something I know can hold up. It is exposed to negative temps for long periods of time and extreme heat occasionally. It also receives a fair amount of draw from the stock stereo. I am often waiting in lines for ferries with the engine off and radio on for extended periods.

I do not have any high draw accessories but I do want to get a small portable compressor for the occasional fill up in the near future. A winch may also be in the works.

So what do you recommend? I have been looking at the DieHard Platinum Automotive Battery Group Size 35 but not sure if that is perfect for my needs or not. Any help appreciated!
 

Bigunit

Adventurer
Not sure what vehicle or size battery you currently have, but I would recommend the Odyssey 75/86 - PC1500 (replaces BCI Group 75 & 86). Best battery I have ever owned for my truck. Here are the specs:

• Absorbent glass mat (AGM) technology
• 12V battery pure VRLA• BCI group 75/86 battery
• Rugged construction
• Tin plated brass SAE terminals and side terminals
• Can be mounted in any orientation.• Suitcase lifting handle
• US DOT and IATA certified non-spillable
• Shipped fully charged - just install and go
• Container and cover made from oil resistant plastic
Performance Features:

• PHCA: 1,500A at 80°F (27°C); for 5 seconds
• CCA: 850A at 0°F (-18°C)
• CA/MCA: 815A at 32° (0°C)
• HCA: 1,050 at 80°F (27°C)
• Reserve capacity: 135 minutes
• Short circuit current: 3,100A
• Deep cycling capability: 400 at 80% DOD
• Design life: 12 years• Typical service life: 6 to 8 years
d621bd4ab0368f527b1090cdce186604.jpg

I have my winch connected to the side posts.
 
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Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Would be real helpful to know what the rig is and what its alternator output is.

Simple advice is to buy the biggest AGM battery that you can physically fit into the available space. A heavier battery is generally a better battery (more lead). Odyssey and Northstar have higher capacity than Optimas in the same group size, but there are more aftermarket boxes and holddowns for the Optimas, so fitment might be easier. Dekas can be a bargain if you shop around. All Odyssey and Northstar are dual purpose (starting and deep cycle), Optima makes both, don't remember about Deka (North Penn). Lots of batteries are private labeled (Sears Platinum AGM are transitioning from Odyssey to Northstar, I think Sears Gold AGM are all Northstar; Golds have much lower capacity than either Platinum line). Lots of new AGMs hitting the market from companies like Interstate, and lots of consolidation in the battery manufacturing business. Choose your battery to fit your specific situation. I have acquired four new batteries over the last 60 days for two different trucks: one Odyssey Extreme 31M, one Northstar 31M, two Optima Blue Dual Purpose 34M. Each was chosen for its specific characteristics. Odyssey requires high voltage/high amperage charging to keep it happy, so you may need to put it on an "approved" conditioning charger every couple of months to get a long life out of it. Does not seem to be an issue with the others. "Marine" AGMs often have a shorter warranty than the automotive versions (even though the only physical difference is the extra set of studs on top). Some guys have gotten frustrated with the quirks of the AGMs and have gone back to inexpensive flooded lead acid batteries from WalMart and just replace them every two-three years, but then you sacrifice Ah, CA, CCA, and reserve capacity. Can't do that if the battery is mounted on its side or in the interior.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
I am currently switching to motomaster (Canadian tire) AGM marine batteries in my 3 rigs. I may install dual's actually in all three.
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
AGM is nice if you want to pay for it. I have been putting SuperStart batteries from OReillys in my stuff. They are made by Deka here in the us. I've had great performance from the AGM version and flooded style. I won't buy another optima... not enough reserve.
 

amo292

Adventurer
Sorry for the lack of info. it will be going in the stock location of an 08 Toyota tundra. It has the upgraded 150amp alternator.

I have no problem spending money on something that plays such a crucial role in the vehicle. The AGM is top of my list but each manufacture seems to have a million different options and 50/50 reviews.

Thanks for the help so far.
 

AFBronco235

Crew Chief
You should look into tractor batteries as well. They have the same usage cycle that you seem to, with the benefit of being designed to withstand extreme temps with little to no protection. Look into your local farm store and see what they have.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
An '08 Tundra will take a 31M, as long as you install a new battery tray and a holddown sized for that battery. I have an '08 CrewMax and just got a Northstar 31M AGM for that truck. In my opinion, that is the single best battery you can fit in there. Some guys don't bother with a new battery tray, they just set the battery on the sheet metal and clamp it down. The marine terminals are not necessary, but they give you a handy place to connect your compressor. I am running a Warn 12 CFM compressor from the marine studs on an Odyssey 31M with no issues, but don't try to hook up a winch or to charge/condition the battery from those studs.

t700_5208a94bce5f805fe6ca2bd2d77f5dca.png
 
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Airmapper

Inactive Member
I've been running an Odyssey, my Xterra called for a group 35 as well I believe, but I successfully crammed a Group 31 in there. YMMV.

Honestly, for the usual everyday use, I can't tell it's in there, so I haven't been that hard on it.

The major difference I noticed is the starter zips up like it's on steroids, I only have to tap the key and I'm running now. No strained slow turnovers. I do have a winch but it's not been used for an actual recovery yet, but it's nice to know I have a lot of capacity at my disposal for a recovery situation. I also have a 12v compressor, when I've run it it's ran strong, but my SOP is to have the engine running for any high drain activity anyway.

If it lasts like they are supposed to, it will be worth every penny. I got the actual Odyssey since for the $40 difference or so I had to pay, I'd rather not gamble Sears will stay afloat long enough to be around for any issues I may have.

IMG_0247.JPG
 

amo292

Adventurer
An '08 Tundra will take a 31M, as long as you install a new battery tray and a holddown sized for that battery. I have an '08 CrewMax and just got a Northstar 31M AGM for that truck. In my opinion, that is the single best battery you can fit in there. Some guys don't bother with a new battery tray, they just set the battery on the sheet metal and clamp it down. The marine terminals are not necessary, but they give you a handy place to connect your compressor. I am running a Warn 12 CFM compressor from the marine studs on an Odyssey 31M with no issues, but don't try to hook up a winch or to charge/condition the battery from those studs.

t700_5208a94bce5f805fe6ca2bd2d77f5dca.png

Thanks for the input. Do you mind telling me what retailer you got yours from? Also where would I get an extended battery tray for my tundra? I know I would need taller tie downs but don't know where to find a tray to fit. Thanks.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
If it lasts like they are supposed to,
It won't, unless you are both lucky and careful. I am on my fourth (yes, that is 4) Odyssey 2150 Extreme 31M in the last 6 years, in a Dodge with a 160amp alternator. First one was a Sears Platinum 31M that developed a dead cell at 3 years and 3 days. That's how I found out that Sears only warrants the marine versions for three years but the auto versions for four years. Odyssey replaced the battery because Sears would not even think about it (possibly why Sears is circling the drain). The new one, under the Odyssey label, lasted a little over a year before it started giving me trouble, and Odyssey finally replaced that one under warranty. That new one (#3) went dead within 11 weeks and I screwed around with various charging and conditioning regimens for about a year before both I and Odyssey gave up and they gave me another new battery. This one (#4) has been in the truck for a couple of months and seems OK, so far. This particular truck now has a 270 amp alternator and a triple battery system (the other two are new Optima Blue 34M dual purpose) as house batteries, replacing the old double battery system. The old, single house battery was an Odyssey 1500 Grp 34 and I had zero trouble with that one. Electrical system in the truck is perfect, both by my testing and by an actual professional mechanic. Odyssey's conclusion is that the battery was sulphating because the truck is not a daily driver. They insist that, even for a DD, the battery needs an input charge of at least 14.7V at constant high amperage. I have not tested my Tundra's voltage yet, but I know the Dodge is pretty consistent at 14.2-14.3V, and the only way to get 14.7V is to install an external voltage regulator (which nobody thinks is a good idea). Per Odyssey, if you don't charge their big AGMs at 14.7+V and high amperage, you will lose a miniscule amount of capacity on each charge cycle and that eventually adds up to a battery that won't take or hold a full charge. Full charge on these is defined as 12.84V or higher (my new one is a tick over 13V after a stint on an Odyssey charger). If you put a multimeter on your Odyssey and it shows, for example, 12.7V open circuit voltage (OCV), then you are probably at only 80% of full charge (the charge capacities are on the Odyssey web site). These batteries are so big and so powerful that most people will never notice in day to day use that they are not taking a full charge. Until you need to winch yourself out and air up your tires. According to Odyssey tech support, the ONLY way to make the 2150 Extreme perform up to snuff and to last more than a few years is to set up your alternator to input at least 14.7V at 25+amps (even at idle, but 50amps is better), OR to use one of their approved chargers. The Odyssey Ultimizer chargers are being phased out in favor of a new line, but they recommend their discontinued 40amp three bank, or the 50amp single or triple bank chargers which are optimized (pun intended) for their big Odysseys. The typical solid state AC charger/conditioner packs that are commonly available are in the 5amp to 8amp range, and just don't cut it, even with AGM charging profiles. Odyssey recommends putting the battery on a dedicated conditioning charger about every two months, whether the truck is being driven or not. Optima told me that the Odyssey Ultimizer that I now have (40amps, up to 15.6V) will damage their batteries, so can't use it on Optimas. Northstar says the Ultimizer is fine on their 31m AGM, but theirs does not require that type of charger and does not need the 14.7+V input that the Odyssey needs, and that's why I bought a Northstar for the Tundra. The Northstar also has marginally better reserve capacity than the Odyssey. Can't say for sure that the Northstar is better than the Odyssey, but I'm going to find out. I must add that through this whole process, Odyssey's tech support and customer service has been exemplary and I'm very impressed with how they have handled things. And Odyssey has on their website a list of recommended AC charger/conditioners; Grp 31s need different chargers than Grp 34s. Don't use a Grp 34 charger on a Grp 31 and expect good results, but a Grp 31 charger will work just fine on a Grp 34 battery. I had to learn all this the hard way, and I'm just tired of screwing around with batteries and charging systems.
 
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Ducky's Dad

Explorer
My Northstar came from Battery Power, locally. If you call Northstar they will hook you up with the rep for your region and he can tell you who has them in stock near you. I usually get battery trays and holddowns from Summit Racing, but Jeg's has a pretty good selection. You might find something at a local Advance or O'Reilly or Pep Boys. Sometimes they surprise me.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
^^
^^
That above is why I stick with normal flooded batteries. They're MUCH cheaper, there's no barrage of crafty salespeople & marketing materials that try to convince you you need them (and need special (or specially-sized) chargers for them), and they just plain work. And they will last too if you take care of them (our Winnebago for example has a pair of inexpensive Energizer flooded batteries that are eight years old now... last outing they were just as good as the day they were new, no loss in their capacity we've been able to notice).

Indeed, every 3-4 months or so regardless of usage I attach a regulated charger or power supply to them for a 12-24hr absorptive or "conditioning" charge (typically 14.7V, but sometimes a little higher or lower depending on temperature). Once a year I'll also buzz each one with a desulfator for 4-7 days (@13.9V). Doing both of these pretty much eliminates the buildup of lead sulfate that hardens (crystallizes) over time which ultimately leads to the demise of most batteries, flooded or AGM.

I've seen what appears to be the same battery as the Energizer RV at Costco for ~$80 (Interstate/Kirkland grp-27 deep-cycle/starting). Hard to go wrong with that kind of a deal if it'll last 8+ years with only a little attention (amounting to a few minutes of your time) given to it a few times a year.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
That above is why I stick with normal flooded batteries.
True, but you can't mount a flooded lead acid battery on its side and there is no comparison on the capacity question. For dual purpose batteries in this size range, if you have a lot of load (lights, winch, OBA, refrigerator, etc.), AGM is the way to go unless you have room and weight capacity for a bank of flooded batteries. Heck, a bunch of Trojan 6V golf cart batteries will give you more capacity, but where will you mount them? You gotta pay to play, and goofy maintenance seems to be the price of admission on the big Odysseys. Northstar claims that theirs are not picky about charging or desulfation, and I know the Optimas are not picky because I have been running them since about 1998 in various vehicles. You pay your money and take your choice.

Once a year I'll also buzz each one with a desulfator for 4-7 days (@13.9V)
With my new Ultimizer charger/conditioner, I only have to buzz my 2150 for 6-8 hours. And I have never (ever) had to buzz my Odyssey 34/78s or any of my many Optima Red or Yellow 34/78s. Doesn't mean there have not been some failures over the years, but sulfation has not been a problem with the smaller batteries.

For what it's worth, I am installing a 2W Solargizer on the Dodge to offset parasitic draw when the truck is not being driven. I know a Marine who is gone for six months at a time, same truck as mine with a Solargizer, leaves it parked while he's on deployment, and he claims it has never failed to start when he gets home. By my calculations, the Solargizer should produce something over 600ma when the sun is shining, and my parasitic drain is 35-50ma 24/7, depending on which drain items are connected. The Solargizer claims to have a charging and desulfation profile that is designed for AGMs. Odyssey says it won't work but Solargizer and the Marine say it will, so for under $100, I'll take a chance. The panel is about 4"x7", mounted on the cowl between the hood and the windshield, and will connect directly to the marine studs on my big Odyssey, as soon as I figure out where to mount the brain.
 
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Ducky's Dad

Explorer
they would not sell 6Ts to mere mortals.
The 6T is a military ordnance battery and we can buy them all day long around here, as long as they are in stock. But it has some strange dimensions and won't fit any of my five trucks (one Dodge, one Tundra, three GMs) without significant modifications in the engine compartments. And it's a flooded lead acid battery with only 825 CCA vs 1150 CCA for the Odyssey and Northstar 31Ms. The 6T does have reserve capacity that is comparable to the Odyssey and Northstar, and superior to the Optima 31M's RC. But here is the kicker for me: my Northstar 31M cost me only $5 more than the Deka 6T and pretty much drops right in to the battery space in the Tundra (or the Dodge). There is no way I could fit a 6T in as the second battery in one GMC, nor would it fit in either of the house battery spots on the Dodge. Gotta buy the battery that matches your needs.
 

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