What batteries do you recommend?

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
I'm guessing you must use only one battery (your starting battery) to do your winching? (which would better-support your argument for AGM) I have two batteries in parallel for my winching, the current being split between two batteries makes any difference in battery HCA/CCA ratings much less significant.
My old setup gave me the choice of one or two batteries in the winching circuit, so that I could hold out the house battery to start the truck if necessary. My new setup gives me the choice of one, two or three batteries when winching (or charging), and I can pick which of the two house batteries to add to the winching circuit if I want to hold one of them in reserve. I have a solenoid isolator (Painless Performance) to isolate the primary battery from the house batteries, and I have a manual "Off/1/2/Both" switch (Blue Sea Systems) to select or isolate the house batteries, with National Luna monitors on all three. The new alternator is nominal 270 amps but tests at 285 amps max output, everything is wired with 3/0 pure copper welding cable and soldered copper lugs through a 3-post 600amp bus bar (Blue Sea Systems). My lights won't dim unless I turn them off.

But now you're comparing a "big" AGM battery to a "factory" battery... You really should be comparing your grp-31 AGM to a grp-31 FLA if you want to be more fair about it.
These trucks came with a high capacity FLA Grp 65 battery, and a Grp 65 AGM drops right in. The Grp 31 takes a bit of shoehorning so some guys have just gone with Odyssey 65s (I think they are 1750s). The guys with Odyssey 65s replacing their FLA 65s report better performance and faster recovery with the Odysseys. This battery issue goes back to about 2006. Dodge spec'd a really big winch (listed as 12,000# with a Dodge P/N) but all the components seem to be from the Warn 15,000# units. The battery deficiency revealed itself fairly early, even with the stock 160amp alternator. Around 2009(?) Dodge went with a 180amp alternator as standard, then they started offering dual alternators as a factory option. Some of these trucks get used real hard.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
Sounds like you have a real nice setup (on a truck known to come factory with an underrated battery), so now I see where it is you are coming from. :)
I still stand by FLAs being a better value in applications such as it's use as a house/aux battery, if it is larger capacity than the original battery, and/or when you have two or more in parallel to split the load of a winch.

The instructions generally say that, or mandate removing the battery from the vehicle. They do this for the benefit of those who are easily confused. All you really need to do is to disconnect the ground from the battery or batteries.
You are absolutely correct, disconnecting one side is generally sufficient (and is infact how I do it). To leave it connected in the vehicle circuit dampens the pulses, inhibiting their effectiveness (and was the point of my comment).


Anyway, lets give the thread back to the OP here, as again, he stated he doesn't have any high current devices right now, which would include a winch.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
I run plain old lead acid batteries. Any battery over 3 years old is a gamble. All my life safety engines get their batteries changed every 24 months. It's the only way to be 90% sure, even with Optima's and other more advanced batteries. 100% certainty comes from double redundancy.

I use a Kohler 6 amp float charger, or a Guest 6 amp that appears to be the same thing. My motorcycle has a 2 amp Shumacher float charger.
 

amo292

Adventurer
Wow. Got a lot more good info than expected. Thanks for the quick and dirty battery and charging education class.
 

BadChevyZ-71

New member
So are the Optima Yellow Top batteries that are on the shelves say at Napa or Advance Auto should be the new better batch of Optima batteries correct? I've had my current Optima Yellow Top for about 6-7 years now and I think it's on it's last leg. I heard about the bad batch of Optima Yellow Tops, which has me second guessing them now. Trying to decide on if I should pick up another Optima Yellow Top or just pick up one of these to try out. It looks to be a decent battery. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...-800-cca-34-78-4/2040409-P?searchTerm=battery
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
So are the Optima Yellow Top batteries that are on the shelves say at Napa or Advance Auto should be the new better batch of Optima batteries correct? I've had my current Optima Yellow Top for about 6-7 years now and I think it's on it's last leg. I heard about the bad batch of Optima Yellow Tops, which has me second guessing them now. Trying to decide on if I should pick up another Optima Yellow Top or just pick up one of these to try out. It looks to be a decent battery. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...-800-cca-34-78-4/2040409-P?searchTerm=battery

Optimas ain't what the used to be.

Just get an Ac Delco or Napa battery. Try to get a model with removable caps to check the fluid level, or at least a built in hydrometer eye. Maintianing fluid level is key, but most batteries lack that. Which is why i change those out frequently.
 

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