drifter_r6
Observer
First write up so bear with me, I know everyone likes pics so I may have gone a little overboard with the details.
Like many on this board I find myself seeking solace in the most remote places to explore, away from everyone. Many times that means arriving at your destination later than expected and its pitch black trying to find a trail that's off the beaten path… I've ran into one too many scenarios where my stock headlights and fog lights just weren't providing sufficient lighting down a trail. My hand held LED flashlights provided better throw and penetration into the woods to see where I was going. Enough of that non-sense, time to upgrade!
Things I wanted: Max lumens output for a given size, streamline and low-profile. This will be going on a daily driver, Ford F350 CCLB. The vehicle is large enough already, I don't need anything else adding length to this behemoth. So no gigantic bumpers with stingers or bull bar hoops just to add some auxiliary lighting. I came across this Rough Country Ford Super Duty grille kit which seemed to meet my criteria.
Image from RC's website:
Here's a quick review of the install. I purchased the dual light bar kit. The instructions provided were pretty bad, it gave a general idea of what you needed to do but did not provide enough details (a template would have helped) or tips which would have made installation a lot easier. On a difficulty level (1-5) I'd rate it a 4. Luckily I don't mind tinkering.
The key to this kit are the mounting brackets, which center the lights and attach to the substructure/ribs behind the stock grille. The lights are universal, providing a couple mounting options; the base mounting was for my application.
They came with a standard wiring harness which included a 30A fuse, 40A relay and lighted power switch. At roughly a 13A draw per light, you could wire both lights onto one switch if you choose. I wanted control of each light and ran two switches. There was plenty of wire length, I really hate it when manufacturers skimp and I end up having to add more wiring.
I was impressed with the light bar connectors, they screw together and have O-rings on both ends. Definitely water resistant, maybe even water proof connections.
First you have to remove the grille assembly, there are 4 bolts up top and 5 metals clips below. In their instructions it doesn't clearly identify the clips. If you press on the plastic tabs it only removes the bezel surrounding the grille. The silver metal clips are what release the whole assembly.
.
The upper and lower parts of the grille need to be cut out.
.
Due to all the ribs in the support structure, tight space and the painted/chrome grille surrounds extending into the opening, its really hard making flush cuts without nicking something. The best way is to leave some extra material and snap off the plastic, this will leave it flush and minimize the finish work with a sanding drum. A dremel really helps out here.
Like many on this board I find myself seeking solace in the most remote places to explore, away from everyone. Many times that means arriving at your destination later than expected and its pitch black trying to find a trail that's off the beaten path… I've ran into one too many scenarios where my stock headlights and fog lights just weren't providing sufficient lighting down a trail. My hand held LED flashlights provided better throw and penetration into the woods to see where I was going. Enough of that non-sense, time to upgrade!
Things I wanted: Max lumens output for a given size, streamline and low-profile. This will be going on a daily driver, Ford F350 CCLB. The vehicle is large enough already, I don't need anything else adding length to this behemoth. So no gigantic bumpers with stingers or bull bar hoops just to add some auxiliary lighting. I came across this Rough Country Ford Super Duty grille kit which seemed to meet my criteria.
Image from RC's website:
Here's a quick review of the install. I purchased the dual light bar kit. The instructions provided were pretty bad, it gave a general idea of what you needed to do but did not provide enough details (a template would have helped) or tips which would have made installation a lot easier. On a difficulty level (1-5) I'd rate it a 4. Luckily I don't mind tinkering.
The key to this kit are the mounting brackets, which center the lights and attach to the substructure/ribs behind the stock grille. The lights are universal, providing a couple mounting options; the base mounting was for my application.
They came with a standard wiring harness which included a 30A fuse, 40A relay and lighted power switch. At roughly a 13A draw per light, you could wire both lights onto one switch if you choose. I wanted control of each light and ran two switches. There was plenty of wire length, I really hate it when manufacturers skimp and I end up having to add more wiring.
I was impressed with the light bar connectors, they screw together and have O-rings on both ends. Definitely water resistant, maybe even water proof connections.
First you have to remove the grille assembly, there are 4 bolts up top and 5 metals clips below. In their instructions it doesn't clearly identify the clips. If you press on the plastic tabs it only removes the bezel surrounding the grille. The silver metal clips are what release the whole assembly.
.
The upper and lower parts of the grille need to be cut out.
.
Due to all the ribs in the support structure, tight space and the painted/chrome grille surrounds extending into the opening, its really hard making flush cuts without nicking something. The best way is to leave some extra material and snap off the plastic, this will leave it flush and minimize the finish work with a sanding drum. A dremel really helps out here.
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