Project Aluminum Bed into Expedition Trailer

cvitech2

New member
trailer 1 10.jpg

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I have been lurking on here for years. Finally have time and money to start a project build. I have scored an aluminum service bed, looks to be in great condition. I am now deciding on building a trailer frame or using an existing leak or coil over design. I hope to have it complete before spring time.
 
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cvitech2

New member
I can give you a real good ball park number. After removing the bolts my father and I could not even budge it, but it was hung. Friend used an excavator to pick it up and set it on my dads little trailer. It was not set to stable and needed to be squared so Me, my father and old man and his son, picked it up and squared it on the trailer. I know that's not a great answer but I think it was between 400 and 500 depending on the grunts. No way was it over 500-550 or we could never have budged it. It is all aluminum excepts (3) 2" channels running on the bottom.
 

cvitech2

New member
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Profile is exactly what I was wanting, not to deep

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A few questions I am starting to ask myself....

1. Its aluminum so the weight is way down, Im guessing 400-500 lbs at the moment. I am stripping the 3 layers of paint on it now. When I do decide to coat it. I am torn between polyurea and automotive paint, and if the later what kind....epoxy? If I choose some polyurea, It will add weight but I think I am already way ahead since the steel weight would be 1200-1400 pounds. It would never rust anyway, but would be much more durable with the polyurea, and that also adds the old should I paint the poly or clear it question?

2. Those unfinished seams need some sort of auto caulk, need to research that a little more.

3. I took the glass out and had it tinted yesterday, will reinstall in the spring but have never done anything like that. The old rubber is junked so I need to purchase something new.

4. Painting the hinges???
 

myers

Member
View attachment 308324
Profile is exactly what I was wanting, not to deep

View attachment 308322

View attachment 308323

A few questions I am starting to ask myself....

1. Its aluminum so the weight is way down, Im guessing 400-500 lbs at the moment. I am stripping the 3 layers of paint on it now. When I do decide to coat it. I am torn between polyurea and automotive paint, and if the later what kind....epoxy? If I choose some polyurea, It will add weight but I think I am already way ahead since the steel weight would be 1200-1400 pounds. It would never rust anyway, but would be much more durable with the polyurea, and that also adds the old should I paint the poly or clear it question?

2. Those unfinished seams need some sort of auto caulk, need to research that a little more.

3. I took the glass out and had it tinted yesterday, will reinstall in the spring but have never done anything like that. The old rubber is junked so I need to purchase something new.

4. Painting the hinges???

Well, I will give you my thoughts/help....as a painting contractor and someone who has built an offroad trailer.

I obviously haven't used and don't know every product available but am pretty familiar with the products available from Sherwin-Williams Industrial line....so here you go.

1. DTM (Direct-to-Metal) Acrylic: A waterbased product that is pretty user friendly. No terrible smell (but you will still want a respirator because of what I am going to say next). You will need to spray it on otherwise you will not get a nice smooth finish. Spray on several very light coats to keep from sagging/running. Dries fairly quickly. Fairly durable.

2. DTM oil based: Oil based product so it has an odor and you will have to wear a respirator when applying, otherwise you will possibly kill yourself. If you don't have a shop or detached garage to apply this in your family will hate you for having to smell it for days on end. Takes what is going to seem like FOREVER to dry because it is oil. Spraying will again require several light coats. Very durable finish.

3. BondPlex: Water based product. Pretty user friendly. Same as DTM Acrylic, you will have to spray it on for a great finish so you will also need a respirator. Spray on several light coat to keep it from sagging/running. Dries fairly quickly. Very durable finish. Comparable to DTM oil based finish as far as durability.

4. Sher-Kem: Think of what John Deere and Caterpillar use on their equipment. Xylene based product. MUST be sprayed. MUST wear a respirator. Dries extremely fast. Several light coats. VERY durable and holds gloss retention very well.

5. Monstaliner: This is what I used on part of my original trailer build (and won't use again). Expensive. Must be mixed with a hardener and is only good for like 12 hrs after that then it dries out. This means you really can't save it for future use or touch-ups if you add stuff that needs paint or scratch the trailer. When I ordered it the smallest thing you could order is a quart. Smells horrible. I believe it is Xylene based. Dries pretty quickly. Can be rolled or sprayed on. Durable but not as durable as what it cost the difficulty it takes to apply.

6. Epoxy: Not overly familiar with epoxies in this type of application but I would imagine it would be just as difficult to apply as SherKem and requires a hardner, sweat-in time then application. Probably no saving for a later date. Terrible smell. Spray application.

After saying all that, I would say get a quote for powder coating it. There is a very good chance you will actually spend less money powder coating it than trying to paint it yourself. I mean think about it. Unless you have the equipment here is what you will need.
1. Plastic, tape and some wood to make a spray booth out of your garage or wherever you will paint it. ($60)
2. A rig to spray this stuff out of. ($450)
3. A respirator and spray suit. ($50)
4. All of the finish product and primers ($300-450)
5. This one is huge....finding the time to build a spray booth and paint everything with multiple coats. Which you are honestly looking at a full weekend maybe more.

As far as a seam sealer I have had great luck with NAPA Auto Parts 4323. Applies with a standard caulking gun.

Good luck with whatever you decide. That is an awesome starting point for a build.

And remember, you will always think of stuff to add to it so make sure you can paint whatever you add easily (meaning the product you choose can be easily applied or touched-up) or you can take it somewhere and have it powder coated.
 

Archaic

New member
After we talked last night, I got to thinking, aluminum trailers are pretty noisy because they tend to bounce a lot. The Poly-urea would probably quiet that down a bit. Make sure you make the tongue long enough that you can jack-knife it to 70+ degrees (short trailers suck!). I'd basecoat the hinges the same color as the polyurea finish and then tape them off.

I cant believe you made dad lift that heavy trailer you slave driver.
 

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