what Toyota or other comparable platform/mods would you pick to build a full time cam

etzicle

New member
DISCLAIMER: please bear with me. I may be getting over analyitical but I just want to build the best damn thing possible (with little funds) and my mind has been spinning for a year on this.

As it says, what Toyota or other comparable platform/mods would you pick to build a full time camper/expedition vehicle on? I plan to carry 1500 lbs total. I plan on taking this all through South America, Africa, Asia etc. Would it be the best choice to keep alll (maybe some exceptions?) parts stock to maximize world parts support on other contininents? Or would it not be much of an issue to replace aftermarket parts back with stock parts if they break? Are there Toyota parts that can't be found outside of USA? I'm willing to buy the vehicle in any country too, so if there are opinions on best countries/models/parts abroad to go with? I want to of course keep up front cost, cost of ownership and repairs/mods to a minimum. That pushes me towards 1980s pickup/hilux, but I like the extra size and strength offered in the t100 and fzj80. I've also thought about stock diesel hilux and land cruiser options outside of the U.S. But they seem to get into a considerably higher price bracket. After much research I see bits and pieces over various models that I like but not one that has it all.

ENGINE: I definitely want to diesel and I hope to be able to run straight waste vegetable oil. I've read that taking proper precaution with a two tank system, stronger heated lines, stronger pumps etc. people have ran straight veggie with diesel priming without sacrificing the longevity of the engine. I'm thinking the Mercedes om617 diesel would work well with this and it is very durable. Any information on Toyota diesels with this system and their durability compared to the om617? What about world parts support compared to the om617? Any thoughts on isuzu/Mitsubishi/Nissan etc. diesels? In regards to the cheapest, Om617 swap or buying a diesel vehicle abroad?

TRANSMISSION: it definitely has to be manual. I hear the w56 is respectable (certain variants to shoot for/stay away from?). But I've read the r151f is a better performer. How do these compare to the manual land cruiser transmission options? What about the G transmissions? What does the t100 use? Which of these have the best world parts support? Which are the best for sustained off-road with 1500lbs in the bed? I would like to be able to crawl with control so maybe a total crawl ratio somewhere between 60-80:1

TRANSFER CASE: I really only have read much about the pickup transfer cases and to stick with a top shift, gear driven 2.28:1. Do the pickup transfer cases have a stock lock option like the fzj80 transfer case? And if so, only in low or in high too? How does this transfer case compare to and what are the ratios of the t100, fj60 and fzj80 transfer cases? Would dual marlin cases be good bet to take around the world or would it be difficult to maintain due to parts? Or could a stock transfer case be easily swapped back in if the marlin duals get screwy?

DRIVESHAFTS: I really don't have any info here. Anything to be choosy about between the various stock Toyota driveshafts? Should I go aftermarket?

BODY/FRAME/SUSPENSION/AXLES/DIFFS: I want the largest camper possible (I'm thinking 9/10 ft by 7 ft exterior floor dimensions with a cab over bed with 6.5 ft exterior height) while maintaining good off road geometries and the most durable parts. Therefore, the longest wheel base and axles make sense to me but will inches of difference in the frame width and length matter that much? The pickups and t100s have a 121 inch wheelbase and the fzj80 has a 112 inch wheelbase, but I really like the stock front and rear locked full float fzj80 axles with the high pinion diffs. Should I do Front and rear fzj80 axles on a pickup? Or Pickup cab on a fzj80 rolling chassis? Or fzj80 front axle and rear third member on a t100? How will steering have to be changed in regards to each of these? Leaf vs coil suspension? What's easier, better, cheaper, holds more weight in each one of these? Any stock "ish" vehicles abroad fulfilling this better?

ELECTRONICS: I hear people say to stay away from electronics. Is this across the board? Are they beneficial in some areas? Are mechanical lockers better than the Toyota elockers?
 

Maninga

Adventurer
It's the body size that gets me, you're trying to put a large floor on something that really won't like anything bigger than 8 ft, and likely going to be overweight by the time you load up with supplies, water, camper, clothes etc. Not saying it can't be done, but I'd be really careful about it. 70 series landcruiser tray with upgraded GVM would likely be your best bet if staying with Toyota.

Otherwise, buy this, build a camper on the back, you'll still be under weight rating, have a larger camper potential and parts are available widely.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...uspension-Flatbed-low-miles-REDUCED-36K-trade
 

sg1

Adventurer
Tacos, Tundras/F 100 are unknown outside the US. The Hilux is not big enough to carry a camper anywhere near the size you want. A camper your size would weight more than 2,500 lbs dry plus supplies etc. Even for a Lc 75/78 a 8x6.5 ft camper would be the maximum. Good LC 70´s diesel are difficult to find, expensive and have a gearbox problem. Outside Africa they are not very common. Try a European ex military vehicle. They are cheap, rugged and have the size and payload you need. As long as you stay away from Unimogs they are usually fairly easy to repair. Look here http://dbrush.net/eng/index.php or here http://www.philipp-trucks.de/.
Stefan
 

gmacmt

Adventurer
A few questions before you get too heavy into this...

How much fuel do you want to carry?
How much water do you want to carry?
Where does your 1500lb camper number come from?
How heavy are your oversize tires, bumpers, rock sliders, etc?
How much over gvwr are you comfortable getting?
Whats your budget?

I would say get a 12 valve cummins or a pre 2003 ford diesel.
 

evilfij

Explorer
70 series, 1HZ landcruiser tray back from Australia. Probably $4-6k for a decent runner from the early 90s based on Internet ads in Australia.
 

turbotommy

Observer
I've got a second gen toyota 4x4 with a Chinook pop up body on the back. I works for me and is a cheap way to get into a low profile camper.if you could cut the weight in half you could probably use this set up.i am purchasing a om617 in the next few days for it ,it's a cheap diesel solution as motors are affordable and the adapter plate isn't to bad.this whole set could be done for under $4000 if you are resourceful.but you would have to watch your gvw as it would be over loaded quick.
 

Darwin

Explorer
You are not going to be driving on any waste vegetable oil outside the usa so why bother adding that potential failure point to the vehicle?
 

etzicle

New member
The larger vehicle platforms do make more sense. I've been stuck on the smaller platforms for ease of manuverability on tight trails and in cities and I just always thought Toyota is the smartest way to go. It's unfortunate that it seems like vehicles are either well supported in the U.S. Or the rest of the world not both. I guess a 7x10 foot camper defeats the small size. I could go 6x8 foot on the back but then it gets cramped for two when the other wants a bathtub. As for weight I planned on keeping it down with honeycomb structural insulated panels, their similar to the Uro Camper if anyone saw that article on expedition portal. A 4ftx8ftx2in thick panel weighs 20lbs. So about 220lbs for the camper body. It's the 40 gallon fuel and freshwater tanks, 200ah lithium iron 600 watt solar setup that adds the majority of weight. About 820lbs for that. The rest is interior design out of a really light wood maybe balsa if it can hold up. 12v fridge and stove, personal items, low profile tubular bumpers/sliders, 33 in all terrains, a snowboard, whitewater kayak and downhill bike. As for over gvwr I don't really know what's reasonable. Im willing to re gear to handle weight, I don't need to go anywhere fast, it's whether the other components can handle it. The negative reputations I've been around when it comes to dodge and ford being reliable have me hesitant to go that route.mas for waste veggie oil, I figured almost every country deep frys food so I'd be able to find it everywhere, it does make the system more complex which is no good though. That's also why I've been focused on older 80s/early 90s vehicles
 

sg1

Adventurer
Don´t be fooled by the panel weight. As a rule of thumb you have to add about the same weight for glue and edges. Honeycomb panels have very poor insulation. The floor of your cabin will be heavier because you have to add some reinforcements. My cabin is about as big as you plan yours and I tried to have my cabin build as light as possible using the latest affordable technology (no carbonfiber). My camper body is build using a fiberglass-foam-fiberglass sandwich (no honeycomb because of poor insulation) with the thinnest fiberglass technically possible and it weighs about 1600 lbs empty i.e. with doors, windows (Seitz) but no furniture or anything else. I tried to keep furniture and technical equipment as light as possible and ended up with another 600 lbs dry. Now fully equipped with everything we feel we need for a long term trip, all tanks full ( 25 gal water) , the two of us, food for a week and so on we have a little less than 4,000 lbs. It adds up. Our gvw is a little under 8,000 lbs and that is considered extremely light by most overlanders. With a US truck and the toys you mentioned I would be really surprised if you stay below 10,000 lbs.
 

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