High Efficiency Air Conditioning Units for non-generator powered campers

Haf-E

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
Not sure if this has been mentioned - but this product looks ideal for a insulated camper:

http://www.climax-air.com/documents/Climax-VS12-SpecSheet.pdf

This unit uses an "inverter" type variable speed compressor which is more efficient since it doesn't cycle on/off but runs at a variable power level. It also doesn't have a big starting surge either.

Says the EER is 3.2 (Euro type - cooling watts / electric watts) or 10.9 (USA type - cooling BTU / electric watts).

Its also a DUAL hose type portable unit - so it doesn't pull in hot air from outside into the cooled space - there is a hose in and out for the condenser airflow.
 
patoz

patoz

Expedition Leader
Haf-E said:
Not sure if this has been mentioned - but this product looks ideal for a insulated camper:

http://www.climax-air.com/documents/Climax-VS12-SpecSheet.pdf

This unit uses an "inverter" type variable speed compressor which is more efficient since it doesn't cycle on/off but runs at a variable power level. It also doesn't have a big starting surge either.

Says the EER is 3.2 (Euro type - cooling watts / electric watts) or 10.9 (USA type - cooling BTU / electric watts).

Its also a DUAL hose type portable unit - so it doesn't pull in hot air from outside into the cooled space - there is a hose in and out for the condenser airflow.
Click to expand...


I like the dual hose concept, which makes perfect sense. Here is a video by a professional installer who knows what he's talking about. I've watched dozens of his videos on all kinds of topics like solar, batteries, generators, A/C and heat systems, etc.




https://www.practicalpreppers.com/a...units/climax-v12-portable-ac-unit-detail-view
 
campo

campo

Adventurer
Hi Guys
.
I am still following the thread.
Your are fantastic to find new possible AC units all the time.
What bothers me a lot is the noise level.
In my RV with 3 AC systems this is the bigest problem.
In my house I havee some 12.000 BTU inverter units from LG.
On low speed the noise level is 32 dBA
This is acceptable.
When I read in the specs of the Climax air that the noise level of the evaporater is 54dBA than its for me
more something like a silent power generator and totaly unacceptable for a sleeping AC in my RV bedroom.
.
Bardenas Reales Natural Park, Spain 2017
.
.
 
Haf-E

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
Good point - that is a big advantage of the split systems with the condenser and compressor located outside of the living space - less noise. I wonder what the Climax units noise level is on a lower setting? I would think you would not need it operating on high levels since it would be night usually when sleeping (except for napping) and there isn't the solar gain to deal with.

There is the other product I think that was mentioned and used by the tear drop trailer crowd which has everything external and then a hose into the trailer - that should be quieter - but possibly less efficient too. Its called the "Climate Right" system and uses two hoses as well.

https://climateright.com/air-condit.../rv-trailer-air-conditioning-and-heating.html

cr-hookup.jpg
 
patoz

patoz

Expedition Leader
In my case that little bit of noise would be welcome, and actually help me sleep. After 30 years of sleeping in Fire Stations with about 20 of that sleeping in common bunk rooms with a bunch of other guys snoring, I got very used to sleeping with a fan or fans on to drown out the chainsaws. To this day I can't sleep in a perfectly quiet room and if I try, my ears start ringing.

I think it would be an asset also, to help drown out noise from the outside in pay campgrounds. Nothing like a Frat party going on next to you, to get your blood pressure pumping! Now, if you were truly out in nature somewhere like the middle of a forest or the desert, then I can see wanting the quiet so you can appreciate the whole package.

But, to each his own... :coffeedrink:
 
I

IAm_Not_Lost

Member
Has anyone in the west or in dry climate areas tried using indoor evaporative coolers as a cheap and low power option for cooling small trailers or vans? For the most part they only draw about 100 watts and don't need much water, usually you can fill them up and they are good for days to about a week. As someone who lives in the west I can attest that evap coolers work and will bring the temp down by about 10 degrees quite easily. Seems like a small portable unit would be great for when you wanted to cool off a bit or direct it towards the bed for sleeping.
 
Coachgeo

Coachgeo

Explorer
jaross said:
What about active-cooled blankets? https://www.chilitechnology.com/products/chilipad-cube-single-zone-single-split-queen

They told me consumption is 21 dc amps.

The only question now is if it will cool enough for my needs. I don't care about when I am awake, but I have trouble sleeping if I am too hot. I want to be able to comfortably sleep in the desert
Click to expand...
Going to make my own blanket like this.

Also will use it with heating..... Going all out actually..... looking to go fool-tilt... Pun intended... Aqua(and glycol) cooling for Cab, Camper Box and even Fridge. Have purchased two full body Suits (inner layers of surplus military Bomb disposal suit ) with cooling/heating tube's in pant, top and head piece that will use in cab (that has no AC at all and generally cost. 2 to 3 grand to install so even there I'll save a 1/3 of that cost) and two vest for in the camper box (also surplus military) for wearing in the camper. Plan passengers (if any) to sit buckled up in Camper box. My box (Ambulance) is way safer location than the cab of an LMTV in an accident.

Thought right now is cool or hot water loop all the way around the inside of camper with T's and quick connect valves. Probably only need two or three on each side. So if standing for a while cooking or??? can pop vest's tubes into quick connect in that area. If sitting in bed.. can pop blanket or vest into a quick disconnect there. Thinking will use same system set up for use with heating as well. Little inconvenient butt... the amp draw will be so much lower think I can have FULL alternative powered cooling without Genset use. Just figure it is more efficient to heat/cool the individual then the whole space of the cab or camper box.

Got some crazy ideas for doing this for refrigeration as well. Hoping I'll end up with a completely off the grid* powered Expo Camper in exchange for the inconvenience. My amp draw for all of that might be close to your 21 amp. Example my cab cooling chiller should be only around 2.2-2.75 amps. Second one in Camper area around 4 amps and fridge another 3. So that is only around 10 amps so far but will add more amps when converting from AC to DC and add the needed pumps.

*combo Solar and wind.
 
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C

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Crazy amount of work. Most people who rack up a large number nights out simply head to cooler spots. Out west? Im an out west camper. At most the fantastic fans in camper rigs or low draw USB powered mini fans make up 99.99% of the off grid non generator camp cooling needs. The only AC types I come across are the RV parking lot type rigs with full hookup service.

Last weekend my target camping area was looking to be in the 100+ range. So I debated going to the coast but so was just about EVERYONE and their extended family so we dumped the camping plan and spent the weekend in our pool at home. In 112 temps on the hot day and 106 on the cooler days.

Well do desert stuff but we go on shoulder season when its cooler. I had family in Palm Springs that spent summers in Big Bear. I learned why when my damn shoes melted and came appart while crossing a parking lot mid summer the one time I was there. Oh hell NO!
 
Coachgeo

Coachgeo

Explorer
calicamper said:
Crazy amount of work. Most people who rack up a large number nights out simply head to cooler spots. Out west? Im an out west camper. At most the fantastic fans in camper rigs or low draw USB powered mini fans make up 99.99% of the off grid non generator camp cooling needs. The only AC types I come across are the RV parking lot type rigs with full hookup service.

Last weekend my target camping area was looking to be in the 100+ range. So I debated going to the coast but so was just about EVERYONE and their extended family so we dumped the camping plan and spent the weekend in our pool at home. In 112 temps on the hot day and 106 on the cooler days.

Well do desert stuff but we go on shoulder season when its cooler. I had family in Palm Springs that spent summers in Big Bear. I learned why when my damn shoes melted and came appart while crossing a parking lot mid summer the one time I was there. Oh hell NO!
Click to expand...

Would make since if only intention is vacation. Trying to create the option of extended travel times and/or living in it. Thus build is with an eye toward that. Won't say PLANNING to do this.. but without building in the options...... that creates too many shut doors to potential great plans.
 
Coachgeo

Coachgeo

Explorer
Verkstad said:
21amps (assuming 12volt) seems like alot for average camper batteries. But, maybe thats only whilst its running, On-off cycling an unknown variable ?? Assume one sleeps at night. Desert usually cool off quickly, maybe its not too excessive powerhog afterall...
Click to expand...
looking at the size of the chiller... means they are Thermoelectric/Peltier units. These are not efficient but cheap to manufacture. You can make this blanket chiller for about 150?? plus your time. Maybe 250 for a double or queen size with dual controls (two peltier coolers) .

Peltier is why Amperage of these are so high compared to amount of chill received. They are better at heating. One person military portable Peltier chiller vest are 145 watt and run on lithium battery. Only worth couple hours. 145 watt will reportedly cool you "ok" in the desert. They used no fan flat plate to dispel the heat which certainly lowered their effectiveness at cooling a LOT. Probably were more effective without fans when considering NOT GETTING SHOT though. (less noisy... especially after sand gets in the fan bearing/bushings)

Larger non portable compressor type chillers are 4 to 5x the price but 1/2 to 1/3 less amp draw. Also 4 to 5 times in size.

(info based on about 35 hours of searching and reading last weekend)
 
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A

adam88

Explorer
Where does all the heat go that the blanket chillers produce? 250w power = 250w heat pumped into the cab. Seems counterproductive to cool your body, but heat the surrounding air.
 
Grenadiers

Grenadiers

Adventurer
We've decided on the Rollicool mini-split system. Not much in the efficiency department, but, might work for our application. Set the condenser on a 'drive-in' style tray off the side of the cabin/truck-bed and put the evaporator through a window. While driving, put the evap in front of my wife, and thread the hoses and cord out the window and set-up the condenser on the platform behind the cab; and plug into outdoor outlet. For $479 on Amazon and free shipping, pretty cheap for us to give it a shot. If it doesn't work for us, always have a garage that could use some cooling. Details to follow, it's on it's way.

https://rollibot.com/product/mini-split-ac-room-air-conditioner/
 
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