High Efficiency Air Conditioning Units for non-generator powered campers
- Thread starter S2DM
- Start date
Here is our build thread.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/141578-F550-Surf-Camper-Build-Adrift-in-the-Green-Room
Our truck is designed with the goal of being able to 4wd to remote spots, and then stay for 2-3 weeks. So, we carry lots of water (100 gallons), and have lots of solar
For the solar, I have a fabricated very strong mounts for them (8 per panel), and I also have armoring on the leading edge of the panel and on both of the long sides. Somewhat similar to how blissmobil has their panels recessed into the roof to provide protection. Should prevent any direct impacts on them, accepting those coming from above.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/141578-F550-Surf-Camper-Build-Adrift-in-the-Green-Room
Our truck is designed with the goal of being able to 4wd to remote spots, and then stay for 2-3 weeks. So, we carry lots of water (100 gallons), and have lots of solar
For the solar, I have a fabricated very strong mounts for them (8 per panel), and I also have armoring on the leading edge of the panel and on both of the long sides. Somewhat similar to how blissmobil has their panels recessed into the roof to provide protection. Should prevent any direct impacts on them, accepting those coming from above.
Last edited:
LeishaShannon
Adventurer
1200Wp on the roof and 400Wp portable using lightweight flexible panels (although those weren't deployed yesterday)
At the moment we can generate almost 10kWh/day , although it drops to around 6kWh with the shorter days during winter
The Victron system really is quite impressive, the VRM portal logs all that data and stores it for years so you can do some interesting analysis on PV input, AC output, Battery SoC etc over time. We have 2 x Multiplus in parallel for redundancy and 300ah @ 24v Lithium for storage. All of our cooking (induction hotplates, convection microwave, etc) and heating is powered by 240v so the redundancy it provides is important.
campo
Adventurer
The position of the condenser outside in the front on the truck !?
Was it no option to integrate it in the body and get a normal design.
Now it is a litlle bit "strange" and for me no option.
Even with the best efficiency of the world.
Last edited:
LeishaShannon
Adventurer
I'd originally planned to go with a roof top rattler as I didn't research air conditioning efficiency before finalising the camper design... so the front at the top was the only place it could go after the camper was built.
Been chatting to a couple of truck places about air con, the Fresco 3000 was bought up as an option
http://www.webasto.com/au/markets-products/truck/air-conditioning/products/fresco-3000/
Anyone used one?
http://www.webasto.com/au/markets-products/truck/air-conditioning/products/fresco-3000/
Anyone used one?
campo
Adventurer
Hi Maninga
I have used them a lot, What do you want to know ?
.
You can use them to cool down a small volume during some hours on the 24V batteries.
That was never possible in the past, to cool on batteries because of the to high power consumption.
The Indel-B is the same as the US Webasto and the Autoclima.
It are systems for on-road vehicles. The single compressor BD350 Danfoss/Secap does not resist shocks.
You have a roof version that fits in European truck Roof shutter, a split back and a split roof.
The performance is 600 Watt and you have a boost with 950 Watt cooling.
Remember that this is just enough for this application, cools down your bed area and not a complete house.
If you use it for a big RV it wil give the same cooling result as opening the fridge door.
.
.
.
Hi campo. Really interested in how it performs and whether it'd be capable of cooling our camper with, plus what the actual battery usage is like. This is our build and some photos of what she looks like
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/124471-FG84-Camper-Build/page14
I have been giving a lot of thought to using same setup as Shannon, and I can place outdoor unit where a spare is, but we plan on being outside aus for a few years, looking for something that works and will continue to do so. Internal space is 4.2x2.0x2.2m.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/124471-FG84-Camper-Build/page14
I have been giving a lot of thought to using same setup as Shannon, and I can place outdoor unit where a spare is, but we plan on being outside aus for a few years, looking for something that works and will continue to do so. Internal space is 4.2x2.0x2.2m.
LeishaShannon
Adventurer
After spending yesterday in 42c heat I think you'd want 2 or possibly even 3 of those 950W units to cool your camper. Ours was running @ 2kw for most of yesterday afternoon and from memory our insulation is a little thicker (35mm) and twice the R value of yours? That said the other campers around us just had their windows open!
campo
Adventurer
I do agree that for warm climates you need sufficient cooling capacity and long enough if using batteries.
Did you make the thermodynamic calculations for your RV ?
.
These 950 Watt cooling DC 24V units also exist in rooftop versions.
The cooltronic is a flat only 12 cm high exterior.
http://www.eberspacher.com/products/air-conditioning/cooltronic-truck-parking-coolers.html
.
They are built and sold as night coolers for truck drivers with relatively small sleep cabins and only 2 class A batteries 2x200Ahx12V
.
These 24V DC units exist also in Off road version as DURATRONIC with 3200 Watt = 10.900 BTU
http://www.google.be/url?sa=t&rct=j...HYN7kdJNu4FOlnGEg&sig2=bTLYFk36whleIsG9ggS9-A
.
This has nothing to do with best EE efficiency and inverter technology but with mobile heavy duty applications directly on the 24V DC and no inverter.
.
In fact I understand very well your stationary approach to find higher efficiency solutions. But the need for the best efficiency is for some vehicles only interesting with AC units that deliver the needed cooling capacity and units that do not break down after driving some first rounds in the bush.
.
Campo
campo
Adventurer
Same remark for you. You can calculate it.
Probably your maximum need will be between 2000 and 2500 Watt cooling capacity when it's cooled down and you do not ventilate to much.
Fujitsu is making the most efficient mini-splits in the US right now. They are really doing some incredible stuff.
Their newest version (AOU9RLS3H) has an A/C output of 9,000 BTU and an EER of 18. *IF* Fujitsu made a 6000 btu unit (like the one in LeishaShannon's unit) it would probably exceed 20-21 EER. But for some reason they don't (I am guessing that reason is "lack of demand").
.
Proof of this is Mitsibushi's Mr. Slim. They made a 6000 BTU model that was 19 EER. But now the best unit they have is a 9000 BTU model which is 16.1 EER.
.
The best thing about the Fujitsu unit is that it can operate down to -27 Celsius. The efficiency of course drops significantly at that level, but it can still operate if needed. This would be useful if you were plugged in somewhere in very cold weather.
Their newest version (AOU9RLS3H) has an A/C output of 9,000 BTU and an EER of 18. *IF* Fujitsu made a 6000 btu unit (like the one in LeishaShannon's unit) it would probably exceed 20-21 EER. But for some reason they don't (I am guessing that reason is "lack of demand").
.
Proof of this is Mitsibushi's Mr. Slim. They made a 6000 BTU model that was 19 EER. But now the best unit they have is a 9000 BTU model which is 16.1 EER.
.
The best thing about the Fujitsu unit is that it can operate down to -27 Celsius. The efficiency of course drops significantly at that level, but it can still operate if needed. This would be useful if you were plugged in somewhere in very cold weather.
Fwiw, I was really planning on a fujitsu, but all of the hvac guys I talked to told me to stay away from them, citing poor longevity etc. which struck me as particularly worrisome in a camper application. Its completely a few guys opinion, so take it with a grain of salt, but worth considering for something that is going to be bouncing around. I went with a daikin unit, 9000 btu, a little less efficient.
Daikin FTXS09LVJU
SEER 24.5, EER 15.3, cooling watts 590. The 590 is for continuous operation, based on square footage cooled, we figure it will only be running 25% of the time, so hoping for a real world watt consumption of less that 400. If the US does what the rest of the world has, and starts using R32 refrigerant which has a better COP than R410a, we should start to see some more efficient units available here. Daikin is already proposing it, but not in the small mini split segment for now. Their Ururu Salara has about the best EER out there, but isn't available here.
Daikin FTXS09LVJU
SEER 24.5, EER 15.3, cooling watts 590. The 590 is for continuous operation, based on square footage cooled, we figure it will only be running 25% of the time, so hoping for a real world watt consumption of less that 400. If the US does what the rest of the world has, and starts using R32 refrigerant which has a better COP than R410a, we should start to see some more efficient units available here. Daikin is already proposing it, but not in the small mini split segment for now. Their Ururu Salara has about the best EER out there, but isn't available here.