Lite weight campers & RVs. Consumers/customers need to push manufacturers....

calicamper

Expedition Leader
My current set up its very small but the panels are simply set out and plugged in. All the same thoughts and gear involved just on a micro scale. Two 10watt Renogy panels, plugged into a 20amp max rated controller mounted in a 50caliber ammo box with a 18ah battery, fuse block and ground bar. Primary use is powering a couple of LED lights and a 12v charging hub. No fridge or heavy power gear in my setup.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Have toyed with ideas to create an easy clip on bracket that could have multiple spots on the trailer where a panel could get easily mounted during camp set up. But my ah ha was not being in camp during a bad thunder storm. Knowing the panels were down low under a corner of the trailer in the sun was nice I didnt need to worry about them. Had I clipped them up some place they had high risk of getting blown down. So I've shelved the quick mount idea for now.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
My panels are installed using lightweight aluminum frames and SS hardware.

4 bolts, wing nuts, and clips are all that really holds them on.

It would be pretty easy to dismount them, although they were designed this way to allow tilting.

chassis301.jpg
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
4pm today I turned on our new house solar system!!!! I need to a couple of minor tweeks still but this project started in June, the system was ordered in Nov delivered Thanksgiving week. Install started Dec 31st. Between rain storms 6 of us took 6 solid 8hr days thanks to my Spannish tile roof.. power company gave approval at 3:40pm. I threw the switch at 4pm. So first thing 28 of my 29 inverters registered. Eyeing the missing one on my sheet I go out and see we didnt plug the panel in.. ok need to fix that tomorrow easy fix. The system app lets me view each of the 29 panels and their output. Even will run an end of day animation of the power generation. Very cool system. Going to have lots of fun with this. Time for a beer!
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Oh 4pm sun was nearly over the hill and set we were producing 1000watts. 1.75kwh generated in what was about 20 minutes of end of day decent direct sun on half the system. Oh this going to be fun ;-)
 

boxcar1

boxcar1
Quote Originally Posted by boxcar1 View Post

The generator vs solar is all about weight and power delivery.
Because the tc ( at least mine ) requires very little power to operate I could run without it, but as a true 4 season camper I find the convenience of the generator out ways the added 60 lbs of extra weight. I use the generator more as an in camp power station than to QUICK charge my battery.
If I added solar that would add at least another 60 - 100 lbs of weight and is no where near as versatile as a small quiet generator.
In reality , when needing a charge I generally start my truck. After a few cold days in the bush it's always a good idea to run the engine for a short while anyways.


Probably why we are on different sides of this coin...

Certainly more than one way to slice a cake.

IMO,

generator VS solar is not about power delivery, it is about recharging depleted batteries.

If you are relying upon your truck to recharge, then why bother with the generator at all?

Just run a a large inverter as needed.

A sweet side effect is the ability to not only recharge but maintain the vehicle batteries via the camper solar as well.

Your missing the point. I have nearly no power draw. As I am not reliant on electricity to run the TC. Lights and water pump only....
It's a throw back marine systems , where he with the absolute lowest amperage draw wins.
An inverter is one of the largest power drains one can add to a battery bank. Bad idea.

I use the generator more as an in camp power station than to QUICK charge my battery.

Again , missed the point. I rarely if ever use it to charge my battery.

Now to the heater. I see you overlooked the blue flame unit. ( my first choice )and what I will run in any tc from here on in . Second choice would be a catalytic.
Advantage is that they draw no electricity, unlike a conventional furnace. Are less than half the weight, and are more efficient. The Blue flame emits no CO.
The Catalytic is a tried and tested unit used for years in many TC's with good results . It's a bit more finicky but with proper ventilation works well. Ask any one who truly uses one
.
Uh, didnt overlook anything. The Blue flame is a convection heater.

Yes it is , one of the most efficient ways to heat a space.

Quote Originally Posted by boxcar1 View Post

A refrigerator (that requires no 12 volt power to operate. ) at the very least 4 cubic feet . ( I prefer 6 )
What fridge? Please dont say LP.....
Very inefficient when compared to a modern Danfoss 12VDC unit.

And increases your reliance upon LP considerably.

Not to mention the additional vents that are required (you mentioned leak potential)

12VDC units are 100% vent free.
My build specs and requirements with regards to 12V are for a 100% self contained, near zero maintenance camper.
No need of support from the vehicle, and no need for ANY noise when dry camped for weeks on end.

Your kidding , right? Yes I'd much rather rely on the lp gas refrigerator over the Danfoss all electric unit.
I understand where you are going , Off grid living in a TC is great . On paper an all electric solar powered camper is a beautiful thing . Problem is all that Tech requires power. Power ( amp draw ) = weight and HIGH MAINTANANCE over the life of the unit. Not to mention the high cost of the tech.
The recovery time of an LPG fridge is less than half that of 12 volt . So the efficiency argument is gone.
I get nearly 1.5 weeks out of 1-20lb lpg bottle and carry two. And that was using the same type refrigerator in an older Lance. The new build has a super insulated and properly sealed cabinet . So I expect my duration will increase.
The 3 way Dometic refrigerator that I chose cost me $300 to completely restore. When I got the unit , it was operational but 40 years old. IE: the reason for the restoration.
That's 40 years of use from an LP refrigerator. I call that nearly maintenance free.
It has a roof top vent. One of only two through the roof of mt tc. The second being the roof vent. No screw holes or other mounts that historically cause leaks.
The refrigerator is mounted ( if done properly ) in an isolated compartment that is weather proofed , super insulated and shares NO AIR EXCHAINGE with the cabin.
It's actually designed to let the outside air and atmosphere pass through it.







Quote Originally Posted by boxcar1 View Post

I disagree however that a good 4 season needs to be an air tight box. As most contractor have learned this is a bad practice. Especially if using composites of any kind.
They tend to outgas undesirable things into the air. I like my tc and my home to breath
a bit.

Please do not mis quote.
Nowhere did I say air tight box. What I did say was near air tight, but easy to ventilate

There is a BIG difference.

You want air exchange, regardless of construction techniques and materials.
Sorry man I didn't mean to miss quote you...





Quote Originally Posted by boxcar1 View Post

Can't remember the last time I had full hook ups or had an overnight in a State park. I think your weekend warrior comment should have been kept to your self.... Or maybe I'm taking offence where none was intended.... .
No, no offence intended.

Again, my build constraints are based upon extended dry camping, and little to no maintenance.

For somebody that is living on the road long term/full time, that is starting their vehicle every day, or every other day, a single battery would probably suffice.

but even then, you are taxing that battery and the vehicles charging system to recharge the battery(ies) properly for maximum life.

Under those circumstances, the "weekend warrior" falls into the same energy requirements.

It's the whole amperage draw thing... My battery ( only one ) is never drawn down because I don't sit still for 40 days and 40 nights. And I have very low power needs.
So obviously our requirements differ.

My solutions tend to be low tech . (Proven over time.)
Yours tend to lean a bit more toward the high tech. (Trust the tech.):ylsmoke:
I have found that computers tend to hate the environments I find myself in when in the field. End up being high maintenance , costly and un reliable.
Building what you want and are comfortable with is the ultimate goal here. I'm glad that you have found a solution to your in field needs.
As I stated earlier, yours is a very nice build.
After this discussion I do however, now understand your weight issue.
 
Last edited:

boxcar1

boxcar1
Yea. Editing before morning coffee is a slow process. And this damn cat won't stay off my computer.....
Nice to see that someone else has the same time clock as I do.
 
Last edited:

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
I will have an actual weight on mine in approx. 1 week, will be interesting to see where the ancillaries come in at, bolts, nuts, 5 cases of adhesive, wire, connectors, hose, coolant for the hydronic, when you actually build something like this and keep track of the small stuff, it won't be a surprise to discover that stuff could weigh a couple hundred pounds.

It's nice to see this thread deviate back to civil, there is a lot of information and exposure. Jeez the condensation issue.....play with the recirculation button on your dash next time your driving around and see what happens to you car windows! It helps if it's cold or humid!

Cheers,
Mark.

Hi Mark,

So have you had a chance to weigh the new camper yet?

Id love to keep this discussion going.
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Came in at 2094 lbs, have to add about 30 more pounds to the dry weight yet. Check out the build thread for some numbers I came up with for dropping weight, solar vs generator, etc. It's pretty accurate since we have actual component weights.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,845
Messages
2,878,808
Members
225,393
Latest member
jgrillz94
Top