Dual batteries on a budget

[xcmountain80]

Well I'm hoping all the others have something to add because I'm fresh out. I like the super nifty unit from Equipt1 but damn it's pricey. While I am well aware you get what you pay for I was just hoping there might be something I can build. For batteries the only thing I intend on using is my Optima red top yea yea I know but It's under warranty and I get e new one when I kill this one. For the secondary I intend on using optima 1200 or 1700. From there I need help especially on my 3rd gen. 4Runner.

Aaron

 

[jsolorza]

pepboys has a battery isolator for like 60 bucks

 

[teotwaki]

make the battery tray out of aluminum angle stock from Home Depot.....

 

[travel dodge]

I used a isolator from NAPA that was not that pricey. I belive it is also posible to use a starter solenoid to link the positive from original battery to the positive on the AUX battery. Then put the relay switching wire to a wire that only runs when the ignition switch is in the on position. That way the AUX battery is only connceted to the starter battery when the truck is running to charge... I am only answering this as the cheep way, not the best way to do it.

 

[Bighead]

Good question...I'll be paying close attention to this one. Where are you looking at putting the second battery? The engine bay on my '01 is maxed out. The only option I have seen, for me, would be dual 1200s in the stock location like Flyingwil.

Here are some options form 'Mud: Dual battery Controller Choices, Decisions Decisions

For the secondary I intend on using optima 1200 or 1700.

Do you mean Odyssey?

 

[xcmountain80]

I'm not really concerned with monitoring the batteries, but I do want to be able to isolate via switch my batteries. I already have a Perko dual batt. marine switch that I use to turn my aux. (winch, and rear power coupler) on and off. I could easily use it for my dual batt. setup. As far as location I was thinking maybe either the pass. side rear tire hump or some magic place inside the frame rails. My fridge is notorious for downing a battery in a day if an any position but refrigerate. I would like to connect that beast to an aux and shut down the rest so when the aux. is out of juice its out. By doing this I would lengthen the life of my primary and not have any oh shyt moments I may encounter. So the isolator I have seen are less than $100 but I'm not familiar how it works "how do it know" .


Aaron

 

[MikeD]

My budget solution: Run a group 31 blue top as the main, pack a spare blue top fresh off float charge in the back.

 

[xcmountain80]

Ok blue tops group 31's run..... $199- $231. So X2 is upwards of $400. With my current setup I only need to add 1 battery and other crap to be determined. Now I like the redundancy of 2 batt. with 1 as an extra I have done this before, good feeling for sure.

Aaron

 

[adventureduo]

This is how we did ours. Cheaper than most and super reliable and if something goes wrong it's easy to diagnose.

http://www.bajaoverland.com/dualbats.php

 

[BruceTS]

Just put 2 in the stock location

 

[ntsqd]

If something more automatic than a manual switch is desired then a continous duty solenoid would be one robust method. The classic Ford starter relay or solenoid is not up to continuous duty applications. Fine for winch controls or self jump-starting, but constant on will use a fair amount of power until the unit craters.
A continuous duty solenoid is similar, but designed to be on for the whole period that the ignition is on. NAPA-online shows 1 of them for $27.99 (p/n: PHI54140).
Connect the trigger terminal to an ignition-only hot wire for it to charge the aux battery when the engine is running and separate them when it is not.

Another way to do this is with a diode bridge. The familiar "Battery Isolator". These use a pair of diodes to control current in and out of paralleled battery banks. Their downside is that the diodes use about a volt to turn on, so unless the alt's regulator is tuned for this use, the batteries will never reach a full charge.

 

[xcmountain80]

Just put 2 in the stock location

I think I might do this with the red I have and get a blue and use the simple setup http://www.bajaoverland.com/dualbats.php. The wiring look along to do what I would like it to. I assume that by having all selected on the batt. switch I will be charging all batteries and when I stop for a couple days I can leave #2 which will be the aux. on and if it drains then it's ok cause I have the primary to start off of.


Aaron

 

[xcmountain80]

Ok so I wired them in parallel and will post some pics soon. I'm wating to find some worth while batt. clamps the auto store ones are kinda not so great, not to mention I will need to trim some cable once everything is 100%. I'm curious to see how long it will take the Engel to kill the dual red tops.

Aaron

 

[ntsqd]

Up until recently I knew of no place local to get quality battery terminals, so I bought those I needed from Del City or Waytech Wire

Click picture:

 

[xcmountain80]

The terminal clamps on the 30" cable I bought to run ++ and -- have a nicely crimped and extremely simple clamping mechanism similar to you picture. It's the other ends I typically worry about I need a clean multi mount terminal connector for both +and -. I can never find the old military style a have seen just some cheap knockoffs. I do like the JL audio terminal like on expedition exchange but $60 .... no thanks I'll keep shopping. I don't have a huge amount of accessory wires just 1 additional side mounted dedicated to the winch. and 3 per terminal and those are almost all the vehicles electrical.


Aaron