re-gearing is an all day event no matter how it's handled, just so you know, or haven't done them before... they have to be extracted carefully, counting shims and accounting for everything, then reinstalled, patterned, extracted, reinstalled, patterned, extracted- at LEAST twice to three times even if you nail it the first time... it's more art than mechanics, and involves little voodoo dolls and chicken bones.. well... it seems like it at times anyway.
I got my last set from Randy's R&P, they were grizzlies in 4.56 flavor- the gears (front and back) were $600ea iirc, and then there was a master install kit for another $200ea... gear oil, rtv, and patience... I now source that job out as it's one of the few things I won't do anymore. there is just too many things that can go wrong and cost a lot- making someone else (a pro) responsible for it if it goes south (howling along the way) is the only way to fly imHo..
swapping axles, as was mentioned, is likely cheaper and easier, and that is a job I'd do solo with very little complaining. He's not steering you wrong, in other words... given the option, it's better to swap axles with a gear well set and tested than it is to introduce new gears and hope you did it right...
if you do regear the existing axles, though, make certain and follow the break-in schedule to a T.... limited heat cycles, no constant speed, CHANGE THE OIL after 500 miles (the new gears have a coating on them that will foul oil- it's good to protect the gears while boxed, but bad for the oil and really bad on clutch plates if that's the type of carrier you're cramming them in)...
good luck!