In the market for a 'Burb

vanroth

Observer
Looking to get a older square body (aka rounded-line) Suburban. Used to have an '85 FS Blazer which I loved and I've always wanted a later model square body 'Burb.

Anything to keep an eye out for? I'd prefer an FI model but I haven't really pinpointed if I should look at 2500's or 1500's.

I will probably take a look at these two this weekend -- both are a bit of drive... And in opposite directions.

http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/5358235126.html
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/5337599777.html

I certainly don't want a basket-case, but a nice project vehicle for camping would be great.

Thoughts?


-vanroth
 

Kevin108

Explorer
I'm not a Burb guy per se but I had an 87 V-10 for about 15 years. Colorado K5 will be a wealth of information for you moving forward. Go ahead and order a catalog from LMC Truck if you haven't already. They have EVERYTHING.

87-91 on the Burbs are TBI injected. It's OBD1, so it can be a pain in the *** to troubleshoot. It's probably worth it though. From what I remember, it adds about 40 HP on a 350. I can't remember which two, but there's pins you jump on on the OBD1 connector that makes the codes flash. By flash, I mean that the check engine light will blink in a sequence that makes numbers. The first code it should give you is 12, which is just means everything is normal. One flash, short pause, two flashes. It repeats each number 3 times, then loops back to 12.

The biggest problems with these are with the frame cracking around the steering box, especially with larger tires. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm is a great brace. ORD makes a bunch of stuff you may be interested in. That's definitely an issue to look for as you shop. I've seen a lot of these cracks just booger welded over to cover things up.

The half-ton has 10-bolts front and rear.

The front is fine up to 35s or better. If you're really going to push it, you'll need to find a Dana 60 and a place to cry about how much it costs. (Close to what you'll pay for a whole Burb.)

The rear 10-bolt is really on the weak side. Upgrades aren't too expensive though.

The next step up is the 14-bolt semi-floater. That should be standard in a 2500. That also bumps you up to 8-lugs, so if you later decide to upgrade.

The strongest is the full-floater 14-bolt, which is basically indestructible. If you've bought a 3/4-ton to start with, you already have your 8-lug rims, so you don't have to buy new wheels to do the swap. You also will have the 8-lug outers in the front. Those can be hard to track down. Well, they were hard to find in the early 2000s anyway. The downside to the 14-bolt FF is that it's heavy and will reduce your ground clearance some. I am not sure if the spring perches on the half-ton are the same on the 3/4-ton. If they are, you will have to get the spring perches on the axle moved to match the location of the leaf springs.

Other recommended upgrades are a rear disc brake conversion and a slip yoke eliminator for the t-case.

I never had to do a whole lot to mine and I bought it with 200,000 miles on it. 4" of lift on 33s and was getting 14 mpg. Only thing it needed when I bought it was tie rod ends/drag link ends. Puddles made it want to drive up on the sidewalk. I eventually replaced the engine and trans, went up to 35s, and did a few other mods. On mine, wheel bearings were the only thing I had to deal with in unusually short intervals. I always used Timken stuff but big tires and little axles just don't play nice.

It was a great truck! Thinking of all this stuff is really making me miss mine. It went to a good home though. A cute little redneck Air Force girl bought it and took it to Texas.

If I think of anything else, I'll let you know. Good luck with your search!

176863_205468689463985_1590911_o.jpg
 
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vanroth

Observer
Kevin, this is awesome information. I've definitely got some more reading to catch up on. Thanks for the links.

And I dig the paint scheme on the pickup. Same color as my 85 K5 :)
 

Kevin108

Explorer
I've got some more info on axles I can look up for you. Finding stuff online was still tricky when I started my build. I've got pages torn out of magazines and put in a binder. It's still out in the garage. I'll check it tomorrow to see what I have. If it's anything good, I'll send it your way. Can't wait to see your build come together!

Oh, and if you're on FB, you might like https://www.facebook.com/nomadoverland I've been reading his stuff for a few months. Wouldn't surprise me if he was a member here.
 

cyclic

Adventurer
The 87-91 are the best by far. The TBI is a solid reliable system, and it has been completely cracked open and even updated. I have an 88 and I did the computer upgrade, absolutely rocks. Look here.... http://www.dynamicefi.com/

I'm staying at 32/33 inch tires and will be keeping the 10 bolts, but I have completely re-engineered it to modern stuff. Best check this link (more detailed than my stuff here) http://ck5.com/forums/threads/pure-chevy-sex.316597/

That's 4 wheel disk brakes, rotor over hub, larger disked, 10 pistons of stopping power. And I'll second the steering brace from ORD, mine is just waiting for paint before I install it.
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
I would recomend going with a 3/4 ton `Burb´ rather than a half ton. Thats a rig with 8 bolts holding the wheels on. You will eventualy have to upgrade everything in the long run so it pays to start with a good 3/4 ton rig. The real issue is the rear end. you can do allright with spring upgrades on a half ton if you change the rear end out with a 14 bolt semi or full floater. I ran a 10 bolt front end for years on my old 79 and never had any problems as long as you dont do any hardcore off roading. In the long run its up to you to find the ride that works for you. Cheers, Chilli...:)
 

cyclic

Adventurer
:REExeSquatsHL1:

Did I mention I have a 2004 Silverado disk brake rear axle under the rear?
I never intend to hard core wheel the burb, so the lighter, less friction, and higher clearance 10 bolt makes more sense.
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
:REExeSquatsHL1:

Did I mention I have a 2004 Silverado disk brake rear axle under the rear?
I never intend to hard core wheel the burb, so the lighter, less friction, and higher clearance 10 bolt makes more sense.

Yes but a 10 bolt will never handle any real power....:Wow1:
 

emtmark

Austere Medical Provider
10 bolts are long lasting on the pavement short lived on the dirt. Grenaded mine on a fire road, 32" tires, swapped in a full float 14 that is on its fourth truck now. Current owner beats the hell out of it and I'm sure he will sell it to number 5 when he upgrades or changes platforms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

justcuz

Explorer
Don't forget, if you run across a great deal on a 1/2 ton you can upgrade the rear axle to a 6 lug 14 bolt semi float.
They come in 1988 to 1998 C and K trucks with the F44 package. The C axle is 3" narrower, but I believe it is the same WMC as a square body 4wd. The K axle is 1.5" wider per side and will match up with your front axle width.
14 bolt SF has a 9.5" ring gear, 33 spline, 1.33 inch diameter axles and larger drum brakes than a 10 bolt. The only bigger SF is a Dana 60 and finding a 6 lug Dana 60 is like finding hens teeth. They last used them in 67-72 GMC leaf sprung 1/2 ton trucks. I was able to reuse my 10 bolt parking brake cables on my 1993 and used a conversion Ujoint. Installing a later rear axle in a early square body requires welding new spring perches onto the axle.
Or buy a 1500 and do a 3/4 ton conversion using a 3/4 rear axle/springs and 3/4 ton 8 lug outers on your front axle.
The conversion is easy. Rear axle, springs and driveshaft, front axle outers, just make sure the front and rear gear ratios are the same.
 
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Kevin108

Explorer
I've been out of building GM stuff for a long time. What's a 14-bolt FF go for these days? I paid $100 for mine in the early 2000s, and that included the yard pulling it out for me.
 

justcuz

Explorer
It depends on your location really. Out west they are usually 100 to 150 drum to drum at the pull it yourself junkyards. I've found some for free on Craigslist. People just cleaning up and want to get rid of big heavy stuff!
 

vanroth

Observer
I know on the GMT400 platform the 3/4 ton trucks had a beefier frame. Is this true for the square body 2500's as well?
 

justcuz

Explorer
Other than suspension, I was always under the impression the frames were the same on 73 to 91 Suburbans.
Front springs and axles were the same, axles just had 8 lug outers. Rear axles and springs were bigger and 3/4 tons in some years got better transmissions. T-cases were the same pretty much year to year.
 
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