First Gen Montero Advice

[AlwaysEntropy]

Hey Mitsu ExPed!

Just grabbed the '91 Montero that was up for sale (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/151959-1991-Mitsubishi-Montero-500) and have a few questions. Looks like the head gasket is blown and a new engine is being recommended from my mechanic friend.
Having trouble deciding which way to go...
If a new engine is needed does anybody know if there is an upgraded/ newer version that essentially bolts in AND is compliant with California emissions?
My long-term plan is to build a solid expedition vehicle and I have always loved the early Montero and LC looks and reliability.
I know these projects can be a rabbit hole but reaching out to the crew here to get advice and insights.

Anything helps!

Thanks for the time...

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

If it was mine, I'd pull the heads and either replace them outright with a set of Clearwater heads or have them checked over by a machine shop, buy a complete head gasket SET, like Fel-Pro, along with a set of new head bolts and re-do the already new timing belt/water pump/front crank and cam seals and make sure you have the newest crank pulley bolt. That'd get you past the head gasket or possible cracked head issue, put you in good shape regarding valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters and set the front of the engine up for another trouble-free 60,000 miles. It's worth it, and a lot better alternative than trying to shove something else in there. From the description in the ad, pretty much everything else on that truck seems manageable.

John B.

 

[montero98ls]

Nothing really useful to add but, like to say that's a nice gen 1. I was watching the Netflix series "Narcos" and seen them use quite a few gen 1s in pristine condition.

 

[AlwaysEntropy]

Thanks Johnny,
The truck seems pretty solid aside from the engine. Would you consider replacing the 3.0 or would you go ahead and do the heads? This is all new territory for me so I'm grateful for any help here. Spoke to a few shops and trying to figure out the best way to go. I was able to drive it the 5 miles home and really liked the layout and feel of it. Definitely worth it!

Montero98, I saw all the Montys and LCs in that show too! Really cool to see them in their natural habitat.

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

I'd do the heads.

John B.

 

[AlwaysEntropy]

I would do the heads, no need to replace the whole engine just because it needs head gaskets and especially with only 140k miles. That isn't much on these rigs, the engines can last a lot longer if you keep up on the maintenance. My most recent rig I acquired has 276k miles, the one I'm parting out is at 218k and it was still running, prior to the previous owner wrecking the rig.

Thanks Raptor. Looks like this is the way to go. Going to get some new heads, replace all the gaskets and seals, new timing belt/ water pump, replace radiator as it's pretty toasted. Hoping to have this thing up and running real soon!

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Good call on the radiator, too. I'd forgotten that, but it may be one reason why there was a blown head gasket in the first place. My position on radiators for these is always to try to revive/repair the original rather than replace it with an aftermarket one. They don't make 'em like they used to and once an original is rodded out by a respectable shop, you'll likely never have another problem with it for the next ten years if you run 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water. I just happen to like to run distilled because it has no abrasive minerals in it.

Don't re-use your existing head bolts. You'll see why when you stand an old one up next to a new one and see the difference in length.

John B.

 

[AlwaysEntropy]

Good call on the radiator, too. I'd forgotten that, but it may be one reason why there was a blown head gasket in the first place. My position on radiators for these is always to try to revive/repair the original rather than replace it with an aftermarket one. They don't make 'em like they used to and once an original is rodded out by a respectable shop, you'll likely never have another problem with it for the next ten years if you run 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water. I just happen to like to run distilled because it has no abrasive minerals in it.

Don't re-use your existing head bolts. You'll see why when you stand an old one up next to a new one and see the difference in length.

John B.

Thanks again John. I am trying to get all new seals, bolts, thingamajigs, as I am hoping to make the initial work as thorough as possible... why not? What shop would refurbish the radiator? I've never heard of that and got stuck trying to figure out which radiator would be the best fit.

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

You would need to find a shop near you that specializes in radiator repair

Exactly. They are out there, just search for them. When you take your old radiator in they will likely tell you how smart you are for getting it cleaned up. I'm not kidding.

John B.

 

[little1er]

If it was mine, I'd pull the heads and either replace them outright with a set of Clearwater heads or have them checked over by a machine shop, buy a complete head gasket SET, like Fel-Pro, along with a set of new head bolts and re-do the already new timing belt/water pump/front crank and cam seals and make sure you have the newest crank pulley bolt. That'd get you past the head gasket or possible cracked head issue, put you in good shape regarding valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters and set the front of the engine up for another trouble-free 60,000 miles. It's worth it, and a lot better alternative than trying to shove something else in there. From the description in the ad, pretty much everything else on that truck seems manageable.

John B.

Hey Everyone!

Happy to stumble along this thread as I am the current owner of this truck. The PO did not do much work to the truck and a rat got to the engine bay, but I've gotten all the wiring sorted. After spending some time diagnosing, I have decided to replace the heads and re-do the waterpump, timing belt, seals and fuel injectors. Radiator seems to be in good shape, so I plan to keep it after having it inspected. Glad my plans lined up with your suggestion.

My question is regarding the newest crank pulley bolt. Where can I source this? Anyone have a link?

I tried to smog the car the other day and it did not pass due to high Nox and HC, likely casued because it's running lean. Anyone have suggestions for what could cause a lean condition? I have only been able to find one small vacuum leak so far.

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Make SURE your EGR system is not clogged; check every passage and check every operation outlined in the factory service manual - it's not hard. The manual is likely available at mitsubishilinks.net or .com, can't remember.

The ONLY place to get the crank bolt is from a dealer. Get a new washer, too. You might spend $30, maybe even more with shipping, but do not skip this step. I happen to like www.mitsubishiparts.net a dealer in Washington state. Not great, but they can get you the stuff you need.

Get that thing back on the road, it's worth it.

John B.