2001 Suburban 1500 for towing?
- Thread starter mchambers
- Start date
rayra
Expedition Leader
dunno. The LMC Catalog VIN breakdown pages show FIVE brake levels / categories
E - 6001-7000 [gvwr?]
F - 7001-8000
G - 8001-9000
H - 9001-10,000
J - 10,001-14,000
My GUESS is that E-F are 1/2ton/1500 base and upgrade, G-H are 2500 base & upgrade and J is 3500. So probably No, it's not the same as the 2500.
eta if somebody with a 2500 series truck or SUV can chime in with the 4th letter in their VIN, we can find out. Or start googling car ads looking for 2500 listings with VINs and see.
E - 6001-7000 [gvwr?]
F - 7001-8000
G - 8001-9000
H - 9001-10,000
J - 10,001-14,000
My GUESS is that E-F are 1/2ton/1500 base and upgrade, G-H are 2500 base & upgrade and J is 3500. So probably No, it's not the same as the 2500.
eta if somebody with a 2500 series truck or SUV can chime in with the 4th letter in their VIN, we can find out. Or start googling car ads looking for 2500 listings with VINs and see.
I personally have never heard of the "upgraded brakes" on a 1500. I would assume that "F" is an internal GM indicator because the same frame or hubs or something in some applications could have had drums in the rear (Silverado 1500 or some Suburbans in some markets may have had them). (edit- rayra- your post would seem to indicate that as well, maybe the suburban in some markets had a smaller GVWR)
I believe, all 1500 suburbans had the same brakes. I have added a 1500 14 bolt rear end to my 1500, and the rear brakes were exactly the same from the 10 bolt on my truck.
mchambers- You do have have a tranny cooler then. I would get the gauge, and watch your temps and go from there. I was getting up over 210 on long slow grades (Socal grapevine) and so I decided to put in an oversized stacked plate cooler and fan from that. With your towing weight, you may not need to.
Also, the only other thing is that you have a G80 locker in a ten bolt. Be very careful with that, especially if you do any towing in the snow (not to mention any off roading). Either let it lock slowly, before giving the beans, or let off.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
geron I'm willing to bet it's a difference between tow and non-tow configs. Would make sense for some sort of upgraded brakes on a vehicle factory outfitted for towing. That the non-Z82 package 1500 vehicles would have an 'E' brake config. That or it's related to K/4wd variants. Both our K1500 Z71 Z82 Tahoe and Sub are 'F'. I've never looked to see if there's any difference in available brake parts for 2wd or 4wd in the same weight class.
eta strike that, I've just looked up photos I took last year of both glove compartment stickers in our vehicles and the Missus' Tahoe is 'E' and my sub is 'F'. So maybe the difference is along the lines of Tahoe vs Suburban and the latter's greater cargo capacity. Maybe all Suburban 1500s are 'F' and all Tahoes are 'E'. Both vehicles are otherwise similarly equipped.
eta2 autozone lists the same front pads for both, but different rear pads. Same rear rotors though.
eta strike that, I've just looked up photos I took last year of both glove compartment stickers in our vehicles and the Missus' Tahoe is 'E' and my sub is 'F'. So maybe the difference is along the lines of Tahoe vs Suburban and the latter's greater cargo capacity. Maybe all Suburban 1500s are 'F' and all Tahoes are 'E'. Both vehicles are otherwise similarly equipped.
eta2 autozone lists the same front pads for both, but different rear pads. Same rear rotors though.
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Ah, I think you're right with the distinction between the tahoe and suburban.
Now remembering, (and reading) I remember the first time I changed the rear brakes on the burb, the socket size for the caliper was a different size than the youtube video I had watched which i think was for a Tahoe. Never thought enough to see they were different setups all together.
Now remembering, (and reading) I remember the first time I changed the rear brakes on the burb, the socket size for the caliper was a different size than the youtube video I had watched which i think was for a Tahoe. Never thought enough to see they were different setups all together.
G on my 2500 Burb.
Single vs. dual piston rear calipers. Rotors on dual piston models are of larger diameter and thicker.
No.
For starters, system operation is entirely different (vacuum vs. hydroboost).
I'd be more concerned about the trailer brakes, and ensuring you have a good proportional controller (not time delayed).
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Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
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Here is a link to the master code list. It's a big file (about 144 pages of PDF) but it should list every code in your glove box. Probably best to download the file to your computer and then read it as it's about 1.2 MB.
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http://www.silveradosierra.com/owners-manuals/gm-master-rpo-code-listing-t7203.html
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The alpha-numeric sequence in that PDF is a little different from the one in your glovebox so it may take a little time but by the time you get through it you should have a good idea of what your truck was built with.
This is an awesome source, thanks!
Thanks for all of the info guys! I downloaded the guide and was blown away by the number of options that were available. It was fun looking up what the codes meant. Almost like opening presents! Sounds like I should be in pretty good shape with just regular maintenance and a trans temp gauge. And if the tranny goes south just replace it with the 3/4 ton tranny.
If you guys will entertain another newbie question are the two transmissions a direct replacement if it ever did fail?
If you guys will entertain another newbie question are the two transmissions a direct replacement if it ever did fail?
No. There's a considerable amount of work to be done.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/699277-whats-needed-4l60e-4l80e-swap.html
No. There's a considerable amount of work that needs to be done, and parts that would need sourced:
4L80E, torque converter, wiring modifications, PCM programming, crossmember, new driveshafts, etc.
rayra
Expedition Leader
... most of which you can get from a junkyard. The greatest expense in replacing a busted trans is the trans itself. And the 80 will cost you about 15% more than the 60. Depending on how much work you can do yourself it can be a few hundred more to double th ecost of a straight 60 replacement, all told.
Keep in mind it's all factory parts, mix and matched. It's not like you are cramming something completely foreign in there, like the old school 'drop a 350 SBC into an FJ40'. If you don' thave the mechanical ability it's gonna cost you a lot in mechanic labor costs.
Keep in mind it's all factory parts, mix and matched. It's not like you are cramming something completely foreign in there, like the old school 'drop a 350 SBC into an FJ40'. If you don' thave the mechanical ability it's gonna cost you a lot in mechanic labor costs.
+1 to this. I am anticipating my 4l60e going out in the next 50k miles and have extensively looked into it. It is not a "direct swap, but if you can do your own work, getting a low mileage 4L80e, and the parts, will be a little more $ than a rebuilt or low mileage 4l60e if you search around for cheap sources (junkyards, the 4l80e and associated parts are a plenty, this transmission was in millions and millions of vehicles.) After that, it is pretty straight forward if you can do your own work, it will just be the extra time to install it and figure out the computer wiring changes. It is not hard, and there are a ton of threads online of the swap done. It is fairly common, and you won't be "breaking new ground".
For the money and time investment, the 4l80e, will be something you can rely 100% on, and will last forever. It is a much, much stronger transmission, and if you are at stock power, you will probably never ever break it for the life of the engine or even the truck. Even paying someone to do the labor, is still worth it IMHO. Think about it, instead of $1000-1500 for a rebuilt 4l60e installed, that will always be the weak point of the truck (of which these trucks don't have many), for $2500, you will have a truly bullet proof option. A rebuilt 4l60e would be fine and they do last if you use common sense with the temperature and use, but if we are talking running these engines to 300k under hard abuse and the truck chassis to much more, wouldn't it be nice to have a transmission that would do the same?
And to to OP, yes, it will do great for you, just watch the temps, and don't abuse it. Between my friend and I, we both have similar weight race trailers (6000lb) and I am at 220k miles on 4l60E with all the towing, being lifted and on 33's. He's not lifted, but we both are going strong at this point (He did have one replaced under warranty at 80k miles). I truly believe that the stories of the 4l60e's going bad are most in trucks without coolers/ towing package, hotshots dragging their suburbans at every stoplight, and the fact that many of these trucks last to 250k+ miles with factory engines, and the transmission goes before the engine does.
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Ghostwarrior
New member
15 years old engine will be fine to tow anything, only well maintained no worry.. Transmission is critical one about towing.. Handle proper way and maintain will do good till 150k+. Mine had overhauled on trans last year but 5.7 still running strong at 172k right now. I do pull '77 old 13ft camper for hunting. Old camper must be weight approximately 2k.