Best Vehicle for Urban AND Wilderness Travel?

Art4med

New member
@uncompromise: Go for the tall ambu! Paint it white for "stealth" if you must. I plan to paint mine with white bedliner).
Standing is essential, for at least some period and somewhere. I'll be lowering my floor for standing, showering, and expansion-- if only in a 2x3ft footwell (sistering the cross-members). Popping up the top is an option I can explore later.
I don't yet have a walk-thru, and a 3-4" lift will be in its future.
--Sure wish I could weld aluminum!
image.jpg
 
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uncompromise

Adventurer
Hi All - thanks for the ongoing feedback.

I'm at a jumping off point with the ambulance I bought back in August last year. I made a couple of blunders through the process and now I need to figure out whether to complete the process of getting it on the road, or chalk it up to learning and let it go at a fraction of what I've put into it.

Here's the mistakes I made:
- bought an Arizona titled vehicle in California - I had absolutely no understanding of the differences in smog requirements across states (I'm an Aussie based in California if you're just tuning in), and have been struggling to find a carbon canister for this particular vehicle so that I can get plates on it (it passed on everything else but that!)
- trusted my mechanic - suffice to say that I have significantly over invested in this vehicle; on the upside, it's virtually bulletproof now
- gutted the interior before getting it registered - now it's back to bare metal, and not really useful for much in its current form other than a cargo hauler; on the upside, all of the old ambulance interior which was old, rotting and/or just plain nasty, is out and it's a clean canvas

Here's what's good about it:
- 460 7.3l gas V8 - it's strong enough to tow just about anything
- dual tanks - has killer range; I've got close to 400 miles on one fill up
- rebuilt carburetor
- new fuel pumps
- fuel tanks dropped and boiled etc
- interior blasted clean and ready for fit-out
- enough monstaliner to seal the floor
- enough radiant barrier to wrap the entire thing up like a burrito if I wanted
- functional shore power and inverter
- new house and starter batteries

What needs to get done to get it on the road:
- replace the ignition switch
- replace the starter motor
- install a vapor canister
- all up about $500 in parts and labor

What needs to be done to finish it up for all-season camping:
- insulate it
- put in a new floor
- put in wall panels
- replace all the door seals
- all up, about another $600 in parts, and probably 3-4 days of my labor
- there's obviously a mile long list of other things to do to completely fit it out, but these are the basics.

I've already paid the registration and the insurance for the year, which is money I'm not going to get back.

So before I invest a bunch more money and time, I have to decide if it's worth it, or if I should just get it on the road, sell it for $2-$3K and put that cash into something that is already completely setup. As much as I hate to just lose the time and money I've invested, I'm smart enough to know I shouldn't throw good money after bad. Ultimately, I want to be out there, not tooling about in my driveway for the next two months making perfect the enemy of good.

00a0a_fgSCgqt6ELn_600x450.jpg

$9,000 and I'm done

Thoughts?
 

montanawild

New member
My friend has a Chevy Savanna with a slightly modified roof and a Quigley conversion. He has traveled to Mexico and the Baja and he has has good success. It's a gas version.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
If I was going to go the route of one of these Toyota's, do you have any advice on what to look for and/or avoid?

Avoid the 3.0L v6. It was Toyotas first V6 and they botched the block vs head design resulting in a weak Head gasket. Mine got two total strip down to bare block remachined rebuilds by Toyota in an effort to fix it. The early failure shows up as temp spike on very gradual inclines at about 60mph and good 5-10 minute climb. The big failure appears as a steam cloud at shut down as a hot cylinder fills full of coolant and steam poors out of the exhaust. If you can get it started crank and dont stop till it starts you throw down a steam screen that would make 007 envy you. It wasnt very powerful 130hp ish and mileage wasnt really anything special. The next gen 3.2L and 3.4L v6s were fantastic I suspect Toyota threatened major bodily harm to the engineers if they didnt get their ******** right. I recall the dealer cost was $8000 both times given the heads were damaged by the HG failure both times. The second failure was 13months after the first failure. The Manual 3L v6s seemed to have better luck, but those eventually fail in the same way.
 

Art4med

New member
The ambu you described sounds like 3weeks work and 3000. But you know what's there and its condition.
Maybe seem even odds by you, but a known entity sounds way better than a new puzzle.
If it were 4x, there's no question.
 

Bbasso

Expedition Leader
I've already paid the registration and the insurance for the year, which is money I'm not going to get back
Why not?
They will prorate and should return what you haven't used.
 

uncompromise

Adventurer
The ambu you described sounds like 3weeks work and 3000. But you know what's there and its condition.
Maybe seem even odds by you, but a known entity sounds way better than a new puzzle.
If it were 4x, there's no question.

yeah - if it was a 4x4 I wouldn't even question it; while the vehicle isn't ideal for my requirements, it's certainly a known entity at this point. There's definitely not $3,000 in materials left, and if I worked on it full-time I could have it done in less than a week. I just dropped the transmission, and replaced the flywheel and the starter motor. Also found the vapor canister already installed (after the fourth time crawling around the vehicle and shoving my head inside the engine bay). Tuesday it goes in for smog, Wednesday it should have plates on it.
 

Treenail

Adventurer
If I was going to go the route of one of these Toyota's, do you have any advice on what to look for and/or avoid?

I've got the 3VZE 6 cylinder in my ToyBox. Head gaskets went out. If I remember it was about $1,500 for the new gaskets along with some other things as long as they had the engine open.

The original head gaskets weren't engineered to be compatible with cast iron block and aluminum heads. In the years after the originals Toyota and the after market gasket companies engineered proper gasket materials.
 

hrududu

Adventurer
93 Ford box truck 7.3L diesel 157K

Might be able to find someone to convert to 4X4 with the rest of your budget? We have a Winnebago RV that was converted after being in a front end collision. Purchased with a salvage title. Pleased with our first experiences with RV-ing.

Don't know if the link will work, so pasted info from the ad. Looks like the box length is pretty long, but no details. Just came out today.

http://apps.postindependent.com/uti...list&sort=posted|desc&fatt=false#.VtCIZ1Km_xJ

Ford E-350 Box Truck,, 1993, $4,800,
VAIL, CO 81657 - Feb 25, 2016 - ad id: 11944810
Ford E-350 Box Truck,, 1993, $4,800, 157k, Auto transmission. 7.3L Diesel, sliding side window in the box, brand new batteries, new starter, new front tires, rear tires are 75%, well maintained, runs very good and strong, 970-376-0240
 

hrududu

Adventurer
On forum CL/eBay in Reno

Just waiting for camper convo:
https://reno.craigslist.org/cto/5426209461.html
Click image for larger version. Name: image.jpeg Views: 12 Size: 51.2 KB ID: 333803

2001 Chevy 1 ton turbo diesel van. Side access door, has bench seat behind captain seats, has center console safe, has air, toilet, alum. Floor, receiver hitch. Am/FM cd, can stand in back. Has about 75k miles. Slider windows if you serve food, makes a nice mod home on wheels has room for 10 ft. awning and solar panels. Has 2 new batt.

@$10,000
 

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