Solo, School on Monday & a 27 Year Old Land Cruiser Killer - Big Bend National Park

cationmoted

Observer
Solo, School on Monday & a 27 Year Old Land Cruiser Killer - Big Bend National Park

Intro:

Me- Having had the privilege to grow up in East Africa and travel in Canada I gained a love for adventure at an early age. I'm a student at Texas A&M University Studying Renewable Natural Resources and doubling in Forestry. Also a Fire/EMT.

Truck- 1989 Nissan Safari (Patrol) TD42 Diesel 5spd/PTO winch, OME suspension and a Safari Snorkel

Camera- I Phone 5s

I left school on Thursday to participate in a prescribed burn with the NRCS and a Professor of mine. I spent the night outside of Mason, TX and Jumped full swing into it the next day. With the winds coming from the south/ southwest, the plan was to burn some black along the fire line on the North side of the property and light the west and east edges before lighting the head fire on the south side.



FYI- Fire is a natural event that has been suppressed by man. Over time human suppression has led to a tremendous build of fuels and a lack in species diversity. Fire can act as a catalyst for biodiversity and forest/range health. Many Pine trees also require fire to reproduce.
In this case the land was being burned to help restore the Post Oak Savannah to its original state while reducing the Prickly pear cacti to allow for cattle grazing.
Afterwards around 4PM on Friday I was left with the decision of whether to return to school or go on an adventure.
I left the City of Mason headed West, I wasn't sure if I was really committed or just wasting diesel and daylight but an hour into the drive I plugged Big Bend into my cell phone, took a screen shot of the directions and headed west at 110KPH. The ETA was in about 9 hours, or 10+ in the Patrol. The sun had set less than 2 hours into the drive requiring generous use of the high beams.




I was constantly keeping an eye out for deer, they were everywhere along with Jackrabbits and Skunks. After seeing what I thought was an eye on a deer I flashed my brights excepting to see a Buck, however I saw a young guy about my age carrying a duffle bag in the middle of the desert at night. Initially, I kept driving but my right foot slowly let off the gas and I spun around to pick him up. Took him a while to figure out which side of the truck to get into but he figured it out. Turns out the kid had been walking for 4 hours while constantly dealing with coyotes. He also was my age and was hitchhiking to California chasing a woman. I was confused at first because he already had a girlfriend in Texas but I admired his motivation. We shared some stories and headed our separate ways at the gas station off exit 261. Here in Fort Stockton I stocked up on my food for the next few days, 3 subway foot longs with everything on it.
From here I headed south on Highway 385 pushing through Marathon to reach the park. It wasn't long before I reached the Border Patrol checkpoint. They waived me through no problem at about 12:45 am. After reaching the first Big Bend National Park sign, I entered the park without stopping as the entrance office was closed. I initially planned on taking the first dirt road and setting up camp ASAP but after reading the posted rules I had to spend the night in a “developed” camp site next to the RV's. I quietly tip toed (as quiet as a NA Diesel could be) in an empty camp spot and shut down for the night.





As the sun came up I fired up the truck and went to the visitor's center to obtain my back country permit and pay my fees, $25 entrance fee and a $14 permit. The gentleman working the desk had owned a Land Cruiser or two and loved the Patrol; the Lady was an Environmental Teacher and we had a great discussion regarding some prescribed burning and natural resources. I stopped by the corner store, topped off on some expensive diesel and hit the road.




I hadn't showered since the grass fire so my first destination was naturally the hot spring on the Rio Grande. I pulled in on the dirt road and eventually gathered my bag with some water and an extra pair of boxers. I'm sure a lot of people have second thoughts about leaving their vehicle here. I wasn't too worried so I did the famous last look one does to their vehicle and headed down the trail.





I was the first one of the day and water had never looked so good. I stripped my clothes and hopped in wondering if I should cross the river just to say I have. Across the river was a shack which I assume the Pan Handlers resided. I must have sat in the spring for almost 45 minutes before I decided on a sweat shirt to use as a towel. As I put on my boots I noticed a gentleman cross the river with a stick, the same type of sticks that were for sale on the trail. On the way back, I made a point to watch my back, the river bank and the rocks above me as I knew I wasn't alone. I turned the corner to find the man checking his goods and counting his profit. I introduced myself and had a good conversation with him; he seemed like a see through guy with nothing to hide. I told him the hot spring would be better if they were some girls, he laughed and told me to go to Boquillas.









I'm running on budget tires and I know one of them wouldn't last more than 5 minutes on the rocks. I quickly swapped for my spare which was a Japanese made old BF Goodrich A/T which had previously conquered Whipsaw in B.C. After changing the tire I felt a little better knowing I had knocked off one thing on my list of worries. My plan was to take the River Road East to Glenn Springs, hit Black Gap and eventually end up at Robbers Roost where my camp site was. I stopped at the mine and ate a sandwich before taking a small trek to the top to explore around. A crow gawked as I hiked the side of the ruins, I'm not sure what it was trying to tell me but it kept my ears perked.













Six in a row is the way to go.











Black Gap was not a difficult trail by any means, I did engage low range every now and then but it was more for saving the trail and clutch than anything. When I reached the end of Black Gap Road I came upon a creek, a strange feeling of euphoria hit me. Seeing water in a desert is an awesome feeling period. I reached my campsite and made a mental note of how to reach for the return at night. The road I was on didn't require 4x4 but I couldn't leave 2nd gear as the rocks were too good at doing their job.




I had Homework due on Monday so I needed to get access to WiFi. Up to the Chisos Lodge I went. The road up was very steep; I hadn't seen the truck “roll” so much “coal” since climbing the mountains in British Columbia. I just downshifted until the engine was comfortable and pressed forward.
I asked the waitress for a table next to an outlet and her recommendation for WiFi. I ordered a cup of tea and got on with my school work. I went through 2 tea bags before the waitress informed me they were closing for an hour. She assured me I could stay and work through dinner. Not wanting to be that guy I later ordered an appetizer to continue starring at my lap top. The crowd was a mix of retirees, ex-students who graduated and young couples. As good as the service was, I wasn't impressed with the food, there's so much potential. After making the most of the bathroom facilities and watching the sunset I retreated to my camp. 20 miles to the first dirt road, which, led to another and so on. This was the first real test of my Old Man Emu suspension kit I installed, a little stiff on the smaller rocks but great on the whoops and washouts. I set up my chair and stared at the stars pondering about nothing and everything whilst silently hoping the Patrol would start in the morning. After an hour or so I retreated to the inside of the truck and went to sleep.
I awoke to an amazing sunrise, with a planet (Venus I presume?) glaring into the valley. Snapped some pictures, took a leak and retreated to the truck for a half hour of extra shut eye. Thankfully the glow plugs came on and she fired up as I began my long departure back to school.

Sunset at the lodge.


Sunrise at camp.


Headed home.
 
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ripperj

Explorer
Nice read, thanks for taking the time to post.
I'm envious, when I was in college ('84) I had a '74 toyota Hilux 2wd. It had like 40# of bondo and tar, a homemade flatbed and John Deere green rattle can paint. I ran aggressive snow retreads as AT/MT wanna bees. I made that poor thing go thru all kinds of stuff.
I'd take your Patrol any day :)

Sent from my Passport
 

wngrog

Adventurer
Go back. Often.

Hit the State Park, Davis Mountains and Guadalupe NP as well. See it all.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Great write up and I really like your solo travel spirit...
Your resume must be a fun read :)

Thanks for taking us along and please keep posting pics and trip reports.
 

cationmoted

Observer
Great write up and I really like your solo travel spirit...
Your resume must be a fun read :)

Thanks for taking us along and please keep posting pics and trip reports.

Thank you for you kind words! It's always a work in progress, I hope to make a trip down the Baja Penninsula soon or even brave the mainland.

Cheers!
 

justcuz

Explorer
There is plenty to see and do 2 states west. I can't vouch for New Mexico, but Arizona and California have tons of off roading. If you ever make it to California look me up. We will plan a trip, I am retired and was a former wild land firefighter in my younger days.
I have to admit I would love looking over your Nissan too!
 
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Jelorian

Adventurer
Nice trip report! How did you acquire a Nissan Patrol Safari and how are you even maintaining it with the lack of parts here in the states?

Such a cool rig, one of my favorites.
 

BlindWilly

TXpedition
Great Report!
I'm heading that way on Saturday for a week. We're staying at Rancho Topanga, between the two parks.
I'll be wheeling out there for a week :)
This will be my 2nd time out there.GOPR0904.jpg
 

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