To straight axle swap or not? Let's hear it.

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
Or, buy a 2500 series suburban/Tahoe with the duramax in it and kill 2 birds with one stone. solid rig, desiel motor....done.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
I built mine simply because what I wanted doesnt exist in stock form.

Ford never built an "OBS" 1-ton SRW 4x4 extended cab
Closest you get to that is a 3/4 ton that has the leaf sprung TTB front end. No bueno.

Didnt want a standard cab, didnt want the extra weight/length of a 4-door. Extended cab is as perfect as it gets IMO.


So I built mine.

In doing so I also chose to stick with a kingpin style axle. ZERO balljoints :sombrero:
Also kicked the gearing up to 3:55s to really let the big 7.3 Powerstroke sip fuel on the highway.

Using all OEM parts, it is how Ford should have built it.
And is arguably tougher than originally built.

The TTB front axle is a maintenance nightmare, especially hauling something like a camper.
The alignment is never correct, and tire wear is terrible.

Solid axle fixes all that, for good.

17d60.jpg
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
I think they had a suburban with a duramax....if not, its a hell of a lot easier to swap in a duramax into a 2500 suburban than grafting in a solid axle into a zr2 chasis and have it correct.
 

ZMagic97

Explorer
I recently became a big fan on the GM IFS. Reason being is comfort over my past solid axle vehicles.

Last weekend a ran a trail in my 06 Sierra that I had done in my 08 JK and the ride quality was night an day difference: I noticed all the bumps, ledges, rock gardens, etc were all MUCH more comfortable and kept me from shifting a kidney or rattling a filling out of a tooth.
 

ZMagic97

Explorer
I think they had a suburban with a duramax....if not, its a hell of a lot easier to swap in a duramax into a 2500 suburban than grafting in a solid axle into a zr2 chasis and have it correct.

They did in fact make them...but they are not too easy to come by. I like to call them the Duraburb :smiley_drive:
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
I think they had a suburban with a duramax....if not, its a hell of a lot easier to swap in a duramax into a 2500 suburban than grafting in a solid axle into a zr2 chasis and have it correct.

Although I would love to have a duramax suburban this totally misses the point of my build.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
I know. I am just thinking out loud. keep your zr2 and use a lift designed for it. I think you will get half way through and say ****** it and have your rig just sitting on blocks. If you are worried about weight from the 4bt, I would try to source stiffer torsion bars for it instead of cutting the crap out of it.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
I know. I am just thinking out loud. keep your zr2 and use a lift designed for it. I think you will get half way through and say ****** it and have your rig just sitting on blocks. If you are worried about weight from the 4bt, I would try to source stiffer torsion bars for it instead of cutting the crap out of it.

I guess you don't know how fast the suspension components wear on these trucks in stock condition. That's not gonna cut it. It also doesn't address the other needs of fitting 35s with as little lift as possible. Widening my track width and and bigger fender flares should allow me to fit 35s at close to stock ride height. The full size trucks have about a 4" wider track width then a ZR2 I believe.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
yeah, I do know. Adding some heavier parts would help, plus if your trying to keep your ride height low, a SAS is out for that too. GOing to be at least 5" under there. That's too much. I think your better off swapping the fenders etc, and what not. Is there a need to run 35s, or just a want? 33's are not that much smaller but make a world of difference in making **** fit.
 

chaos616

Adventurer
I agree with a lot of comments on here, SAS is going to be stronger no doubt, but you have to decide if its actually worth it. Even if your running 35" tires but just overlanding I think it would be ok, but i only have experience with FS GM IFS. I did my SAS because i was tired of wearing out my steering components, funny part is now i wear out steering boxes faster...gotta figure that out still. I run 37" tires and each tire/wheel combo weighs in at about 180 lbs. I wouldn't run those on any IFS vehicle because they are crazy heavy. They put strain on my current 1 ton TRE steering with 1.5" .250 DOM steering linkages.

I think it was Deuce who mentioned it, but there is a lot of associated costs too. If your SAS'ing for rock crawling or just beating the plain snot out of your truck, then bumpers, and other armor are going to join the mix. I fab my stuff up myself which means its not always the prettiest but saves me coin...still expensive though.

That being said, if you want to do it, just do it. Thats what i did, it wasn't particularly necessary but i thought it was cool and i'm glad i did it, wouldn't mind the cash back in my pocket either though. We just took our truck on another adventure and did some snow offroading, aired down and plowed through everything we wanted. The truck is a lot of fun and rides smoother than the IFS because i have it sprung especially soft for a large truck and spent lots of time building the suspension so it would act how i wanted it to. There are things i would change though if i could now though too including suspension design. Possibly go leaf spring as oppose to coilover, less maintenance, and you can get a leaf spring to run soft and smooth especially with some good $$$ invested in shocks.

Just do your suspension research and figure out what system you want to run as it fits your needs. Looking forward to a potential SAS build and certainly a diesel swap, that'll be sweet.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
yeah, I do know. Adding some heavier parts would help, plus if your trying to keep your ride height low, a SAS is out for that too. GOing to be at least 5" under there. That's too much. I think your better off swapping the fenders etc, and what not. Is there a need to run 35s, or just a want? 33's are not that much smaller but make a world of difference in making **** fit.

No need just a want and a goal. I can easily fit them in the back and have built the camper box to accommodate them so if I can, I want 35s for the ground clearance they will offer. I could just put 35s on the current setup and remove the fenders and build tube flares but I would still have issues with tire to frame clearance while turning. The stock 31s would touch the frame if the factory didn't install steering stops to prevent it so the wider track is in order for that reason.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
I agree with a lot of comments on here, SAS is going to be stronger no doubt, but you have to decide if its actually worth it. Even if your running 35" tires but just overlanding I think it would be ok, but i only have experience with FS GM IFS. I did my SAS because i was tired of wearing out my steering components, funny part is now i wear out steering boxes faster...gotta figure that out still. I run 37" tires and each tire/wheel combo weighs in at about 180 lbs. I wouldn't run those on any IFS vehicle because they are crazy heavy. They put strain on my current 1 ton TRE steering with 1.5" .250 DOM steering linkages.

I think it was Deuce who mentioned it, but there is a lot of associated costs too. If your SAS'ing for rock crawling or just beating the plain snot out of your truck, then bumpers, and other armor are going to join the mix. I fab my stuff up myself which means its not always the prettiest but saves me coin...still expensive though.

That being said, if you want to do it, just do it. Thats what i did, it wasn't particularly necessary but i thought it was cool and i'm glad i did it, wouldn't mind the cash back in my pocket either though. We just took our truck on another adventure and did some snow offroading, aired down and plowed through everything we wanted. The truck is a lot of fun and rides smoother than the IFS because i have it sprung especially soft for a large truck and spent lots of time building the suspension so it would act how i wanted it to. There are things i would change though if i could now though too including suspension design. Possibly go leaf spring as oppose to coilover, less maintenance, and you can get a leaf spring to run soft and smooth especially with some good $$$ invested in shocks.

Just do your suspension research and figure out what system you want to run as it fits your needs. Looking forward to a potential SAS build and certainly a diesel swap, that'll be sweet.

I am now leaning towards using full size GM IFS and diff from a Z71. Wider, stronger, more travel, stock parts for easy repairs. I can essentially duplicate the factory control arm mounts from a Z71 onto my frame. The diesel swap should happen first though so I can build the rest around that.
 

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