Show me your custom fridge slides

[JCDriller]

I have a very limited amount of space in the back of my JKU. It's currently equipped with a custom drawer system, frontrunner water tank and a Smittybilt Arctic fridge. None of the pre-made fridge slides I've found fit my limited space (~24") front to back, leaving me with the option of building my own.

So far my plan is simple. 4 pieces of steel angle iron, 1/2" birch and 2x 24" Accuride 9308 slides. The angle iron would sandwich the slides(Blue), one angle iron(Green) connects the slide to the existing drawer slides and the other angle iron(red) connects the slide to the 1/2 birch slider top.

I may incorporate a tilting feature, we'll see. I'm looking for ideas, so show me what you've done!



Current set up.

 

[stingray1300]

I might suggest the use of aluminum. 1/4 the weight of steel, and in an application like this, better. Better for rust issues and also weight, but easier to work with, and plenty strong. Just make sure to use stainless screws, hardware, etc. where you can. I used hammered rivets to mount the drawer slides to the angles, as they provide the necessary clearance for the slides.
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I made 2 sliders, 1 for the stove and 1 for the cooler (now fridge). The stove slider I got some full extension drawer slides (100# rating). Mount directly to the angle. Mount angle to whatever substrate you choose (vehicle bed; drawer box; etc.). For the cooler/fridge slider, I used 200# rated full extension drawer slides. Here's a couple of pics:
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[JCDriller]

I might suggest the use of aluminum. 1/4 the weight of steel, and in an application like this, better. Better for rust issues and also weight, but easier to work with, and plenty strong. Just make sure to use stainless screws, hardware, etc. where you can. I used hammered rivets to mount the drawer slides to the angles, as they provide the necessary clearance for the slides.
.
I made 2 sliders, 1 for the stove and 1 for the cooler (now fridge). The stove slider I got some full extension drawer slides (100# rating). Mount directly to the angle. Mount angle to whatever substrate you choose (vehicle bed; drawer box; etc.). For the cooler/fridge slider, I used 200# rated full extension drawer slides. Here's a couple of pics:
.
View attachment 330323 View attachment 330324

Yea your right, I probably will go aluminum, good call. Nice set up too! Very close to what I'm planning.

 

[fireball]

Your plan is a good one. Here is one I built using the 9308 slides. Little longer for a ARB63. I mounted the slides to the side of the drawer box, and then mounted pieces of angle aluminum to the slides and attached the BB ply to that to serve as the base. It works really well, and the 9308 slides are super strong, no other closure mechanism needed and this worked well for a fully loaded 63qt fridge that has now been bounced across the country and done some serious wheeling.

 

[Victory_Overland]

I might suggest the use of aluminum. 1/4 the weight of steel, and in an application like this, better. Better for rust issues and also weight, but easier to work with, and plenty strong. Just make sure to use stainless screws, hardware, etc. where you can. I used hammered rivets to mount the drawer slides to the angles, as they provide the necessary clearance for the slides.
.
I made 2 sliders, 1 for the stove and 1 for the cooler (now fridge). The stove slider I got some full extension drawer slides (100# rating). Mount directly to the angle. Mount angle to whatever substrate you choose (vehicle bed; drawer box; etc.). For the cooler/fridge slider, I used 200# rated full extension drawer slides. Here's a couple of pics:
.
View attachment 330323 View attachment 330324

What kind of stove is that? Looks like it folds up in its own hardcase????

Thanks in advance.

 

[4x4junkie]

×2, your plan looks fine to me also. I used steel for mine, I think total weight is around 20lbs just for the fridge slide portion of my build (the whole shebang is around 80-90lbs w/o contents)




(yes the bungee cord is no longer, have turnbuckles now)

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[stingray1300]

What kind of stove is that? Looks like it folds up in its own hardcase????

Thanks in advance.

The stove is a Coleman Exponent Rendezvous. 15,000 BTUs per burner. The hard lid has provisions for silverware/utensils, and comes with a cutting board and a flat griddle. Solid aluminum case with stainless hardware. I gave up trying to find a Brunton base camp stove (discontinued), and learned about the Exponent. They retailed for $400, but found an eBay seller with a couple of dozen of them for $160. I bought one immediately. Unfortunately, these have been discontinued too. That's not to say one can't be found though... It is an amazing stove, especially compared to any/all of the other models I've either had or seen while I was in the market for one.
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Rots-a-ruck

 

[stingray1300]

Yea your right, I probably will go aluminum, good call. Nice set up too! Very close to what I'm planning.

Guys, don't be afraid to use aluminum. AL is really really cheap right now. It takes rivets or screws (I recommend stainless), and is easier to drill and cut (use a carbide wood blade on a Skill saw/miter saw. - true!).

 

[4x4junkie]

The pull-out shelf on mine is aluminum...

Yeah I s'pose someday I need to invest in a spoolgun for my welder so I can start working with aluminum more... Indeed it probably would've cut a good 25lbs or so from my unit (a good chunk of weight would still remain in the wood top and all the heavy duty drawer slides though).

In the OP's case it doesn't appear he's welding anything so for sure he could just as easily use AL.

 

[JCDriller]

So here it is. I had a chance to draw it up today on SketchUp. I think I'm pretty close on my design. Total added height is only 3" and the table will end up a little wider than in the drawing @ 12.5"x52". I'm using 2x 26" 500lb Accuride 9308 locking sliders for the fridge, 2x 26" 150lb 3308 locking sliders for the first table top section and 2x 24" 3301 150lb non-locking sliders for the table top extension support. These 3301s will be turned horizontal, but should still support the <50lbs I would ever place on that section of the table. I decided to go ahead and encase the fridge in 1/4" birch ply so that I could stack stuff around and it'll help keep honest people honest if I have the top of the Jeep off (Beer won't go missing). Plus my stove fits nicely above the fridge and Jeep's top.







What's already back there:

 

[JCDriller]

Redesigned it today using 100% 14g aluminum with 14g Stainless Steel counter tops. I've reached out to a local fabrication company to see if they can do the bending for me, if not I'll pick up a bending press. The trickiest part is connecting the Accuride 3307 sliders between the middle and end section. Due to having stacked sliders a nut and bolt won't work as the nut con't clear the slide (I don't think). I'll have to either hammer rivet or blind rivet this section and flatten the backside for clearance.

 

[4x4junkie]

Nice animations!

On mine I have two slides mounted back to back against a 1/8" thick steel member (one for the drawer, one for the fridge). Within the slide for the fridge (24" KV8400 100lb) I was able to fit what is called a "jam nut" to secure both it and the drawer's slide (jam nuts are about 2/3 the thickness of a normal hex nut). You may have to trim the screw to be just the perfect length so it doesn't stick past the nut though (a Dremel works well for this). Since you're using 150lb slides it's possible you might even have a bit more room than I did.

 

[bodynmotion]

Here is a slide / cargo area I made. I used 1/2" 12 ply birch plywood to make it with and covered it with auto carpet to match. It is contoured to match the back of my jeep seat angle for maximum space. I made a 1/2" plywood base that matches the cargo area and bolted it at the anchor points to keep all from shifting. This is really a temporary solution as I would like to make it out of aluminum and build a solid 3/16" or 1/4" aluminum plate to mount everything to

.View attachment 333036

View attachment 333037
View attachment 333038

 

[JCDriller]

Nice animations!

On mine I have two slides mounted back to back against a 1/8" thick steel member (one for the drawer, one for the fridge). Within the slide for the fridge (24" KV8400 100lb) I was able to fit what is called a "jam nut" to secure both it and the drawer's slide (jam nuts are about 2/3 the thickness of a normal hex nut). You may have to trim the screw to be just the perfect length so it doesn't stick past the nut though (a Dremel works well for this). Since you're using 150lb slides it's possible you might even have a bit more room than I did.

Thanks for the compliments! While I did think about grinding down a nut I didn't think about Jam nuts, thanks for the idea. I'm also considering using a rivet nut/blind nut inserted from the back side, I think this would be the easiest to execute.

 

[GordoSmasho]

Here is a slide / cargo area I made. I used 1/2" 12 ply birch plywood to make it with and covered it with auto carpet to match. It is contoured to match the back of my jeep seat angle for maximum space. I made a 1/2" plywood base that matches the cargo area and bolted it at the anchor points to keep all from shifting. This is really a temporary solution as I would like to make it out of aluminum and build a solid 3/16" or 1/4" aluminum plate to mount everything to

.View attachment 333036

View attachment 333037
View attachment 333038

Now that looks like something I could tackle. Nice job.


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