Moving 7,000lbs...rims & tires ?

drewactual

Adventurer
man, some subjects are complicated enough without trying to make them more... :wings:


volume of air is the important aspect, expressed in pressure and contingent on cubic space available loaded and unloaded, which wouldn't follow near as linear a scale as pressure when discussing expectations of use.


there is less flex in an E rated tire... assuming 10 ply's, which I figured to leave it at, but which was rightfully pointed out above me that 'some materials are better than others'- which at one point was expressed on a sidewall as 4+4 as opposed to 8, making both D ply... 4+4 would be the use of nylon in tires about the time that nylon started being used in tires, considered twice as strong as cotton, making one ply of nylon the same considered strength as two cotton... now they just say D ply, regardless of the layer being Nylon, cotton, or Kevlar and by the letter of the expectation they don't even have to be 8 plies at all- just the equiv of eight plies in strength compared to cotton... go freakin' figure.... and we're just discussing tread area, anyway... that's all.

sidewall construction, and modern adhering/bonding the materials can be silly thin and having as little as two layers on a D or E rated tire. Everybody pays attention to the plies and assume all else equal, when it ain't so... plies DO allow for greater volume of air to be restricted to the loaded carcass and retention of shape- which is why PSI can be expected to increase following the ply rating... but it has little to do with the load index, which is where the true consideration of a tire and it's weight restrictions should be considered... There are no I or K 'rated' tires because the letter can be too easily confused with other meanings folks attribute to those letters, but there are certainly F, G, H, J, L, M, N rated tires, up to 24 plies on the N... can you imagine how heavy that would be? (trick question, what if it were a over the road highway tire made that way to a-hold high pressure to lower rolling resistance, and b- have underlying surfaces to affix a retread on? it may not be heavy at all)...

there are supposed to be standards within tire makers, but few follow the guide... how many 35" tires are actually 35"? very few... how many 37" are actually 35.5"? a bunch... what rim size ratio is used to determine tread footprint? 1:1, 1.3:1? (on an aside, you should never have 1/4 ratio deviation either direction)... what can't be used as marketing fluff are the bead diameter and the load index... dang near all else is 'ball park"... load rangeis more often used to express PSi expectations more than actual load rating... the load range is subject to temperature of the tire- the load index is NOT. The bead diameter is of extreme value to the rim it's being mounted to, the outside diameter/circumference isn't regulated but to 'ball park'....

it's times like these I say "go with what you KNOW"... what do you know? Inside/bead diameter and load index... look for a tire based on expected use and whatever criteria you want AFTER those two have been satisfied.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Something else to consider when looking at payload ratings....

Even if you do not NEED the load capacity at that high PSI, you can run at a lower PSI.

My change to a wider, higher capacity tire allows me to run at a lower tire PSI.

By consulting the load charts I know that my 80 PSI load E still has enough capacity at 55 PSI to fit my needs, even with a large camper.

So that's what I run (the rears) at. Fronts are even lower.

The result is a better ride and much higher puncture resistance.


My previous "skinny" tires needed nearly all of that 80 PSI to support the load.
 

Korben

Adventurer
Got me a set of 37inch Toyo muds (E rated) on 17 rims. Love em!:drool:
That means the 37x13.5R17 Toyo Open Country MT, I'm looking at that tire myself, looks fantastic, the specs are awesome. 4300lbs and a Q speed rating in a 37" mud tire with a good reputation, fantastic. Having a heck of a time finding a wheel to pair with them though which frankly surprises me. Haven't found a single steel wheel wider then 9" I'd prefer 10 or 11(Toyo wants them on 11s) but it would be doable except they have like 2500lb load ratings. I'll push the limit on wheel load ratings but that's not even close.
 
Thanks all for your input. I would like to say that I have learned more about tires than I had ever dreamed of, but I am not sure how much of that info will stick, things got pretty technical there for a bit. But I do appreciate it.

I think tire wise, I have decided on the Toyo Open Country AT2 in a 285/75/16. The reviews are very solid and even more so among the full size truck guys. Its an E rated tire with a 3700lb load range/index. The size is one that I can(should be able to) run as is now, but also won't look to small if I end up leveling the truck up later. I think I am going to get a set of five and rotate in a full size spare to help keep everything even and milk as many miles out of them as possible. Not sure if the cost of a 5th will be justified, vs a low dollar spare, but since I won't be throwing the spare back under the truck, I will get a matching one.

As far as rims, I think I am going the aftermarket route rather than factory. I understand the concerns and comments here, and appreciate them, but the more I evaluate the use of my truck, I think I will be fine. I have narrowed the size down to a 16x8 and will go with either the Helo he878(black) or the Helo he879. I still have to do a bit more research on backspace, offset, etc.. so that I know my wheels won't stick way outside of the wheel wells. I have gotten a pretty good quote from MrWheelDeal, so more than likely will order from them when I finalize my decision.

Question: Does anyone know the stock rim specs(width, offset, backspacing) for a 2003 Silverado 2500hd Diesel? I am finding conflicting info online and from tire shops. I will resort to measuring this weekend, but would feel better if I could have some confirming info. I know it is a 16" and that it is 8 lug. I am finding width of 6.5 or 8, offset anywhere between 10 and 28mm, and backspacing at 5.6" or no info.

Thanks Again!
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
I dont know about your wheel specs, but I do know you will not be disappointed with your tire decision.


Fantastic tires. And does better under my 10k lb rig than any other tire Ive had :ylsmoke:

chassis309.jpg
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
I run the factory wheels on most of my vehicles including our Chevy Silverado diesel, stronger than a lot of cheap aftermarket wheels and the Cooper at3 in 235/85r16 is a perfect fit for the truck. And yes I tow with it, that's the only time it really leaves the driveway as we have 4 other vehicles to drive.
 

drewactual

Adventurer
you're looking for 16"x8", 8 lug on 165.1 pattern, and w/ backspacing at least 4.5"... you can calculate the backspace/offset equation if you like after bouncing rim width... the tire you chose is 213mm wide, and you'll want to stay within 1/4 on either side, preferably narrower than the tire... so.. 6-8" ought to fine for your rim width, with narrower allowing more of a rolled form, and the wider being more square...

that is a good if not brilliant tire, by the way..

I HIGHLY rec the fifth tire/wheel... if rotated in every 5k miles as a rule, you'll extend your expectancy by an easy 30% (proven, not my thoughts but me regurgitating info)... plus you'll always have a full size spare, allowing comfort zone while traveling and less stress to GET IT FIXED NOW, that at least I suffer with as a vehicular OCD patient... :)
 

drewactual

Adventurer
was going to edit, but will instead post anew because this is important and something I strongly suggest you consider:

Hub centric or lug centric wheels?

hub centric have a depression on the mounting surface where the hub actually fits into... this adds a new equation to your wheel search.
lug centric just uses clamping force to hold the wheel to the hub...

you can easily distinguish which you currently have by the shape of the lug nut... if it is acorn shaped, you have lug centric wheels, as the acorn/tapered edge aligns the holes to the bolt... if your lug nuts are flat on the mounting surface it is relying on the hub centric shoulder of the wheel to make sure it's on correctly...

you can run either, and any concern about lug centric can be put to rest quickly because clamping force at 185# of tq ensures the wheel isn't going anywhere, but if you DO use lug centric wheels, MAKE CERTAIN and have acorn shaped lug nuts... if you have hub centric wheels, MAKE SURE and use flat based lug nuts...

hate to complicate your endeavor, but this is something of importance and a safety concern..
 

pawleyk

Running from Monday..
I know you've already chosen wheel's and 16" size, but I'll throw my vote in for a set of factory H2 wheels.. I always had trouble finding aftermarket wheels for my 2005 Silverado that didn't make it look like an RC car. I had a couple sets of aftermarket rims and they stuck out much more than factory stuff, causing tires that fit just fine with stock wheels to rub terribly.

The H2 wheels are a bit wider than my stock HD truck wheels and they seem to have a perfectly balanced offset for these trucks. I had 315's on it with no lift and now run 35x12.5x17r with only a 2".

They also look good, are strong and light, and can be snagged off craigslist or from tire stores for a great price if you're willing to shop a bit. I got my set for $500 with tires at about 60%..

Regardless of wheel choice, I can't recommend the Toyo AT/II's enough. They are a truly exceptional tire in my experience. Great road manners, great warranty, wear well, and air them down they'll do you great in everything but the nastiest mud holes.. They are a good choice and you won't be disappointed.

11781661_10207238600660598_111926899102035425_n.jpgblack wheels.jpgH2's f.jpgH2s.jpg12615737_1686681684906844_1763154206526234877_o.jpg
 
I know its been a while, but just wanted to give a quick update. I ended up getting Helo 879 17x9 rims wrapped in Toyo open county at's in 285 70 17. I also went with the full spare so ended up with a complete set of 5 mounted, balanced, center caps, lug nuts, shipped for a hair under 2k. I found Custom Automotive out of Ky. and dealt with Dustin. The experience was the best I have ever had in terms of customer service and support and dealing with people that really know their products. Can't seem to get pictures to load from my phone right now. I'll try again later.

Edit: I can not for the life of me get any images to load. Am I missing something here? I have done it before, but am having no luck. I tried on my phone (android) and on my chromebook. I can't get the images to upload into the "manage attachments" part of the site.
 
Last edited:
Having problems with pictures...

but I was able to get a few to work. Not sure why the others won't upload...too big, maybe?
 

Attachments

  • image1.jpg
    image1.jpg
    193.8 KB · Views: 12
  • 20160908_175608.jpg
    20160908_175608.jpg
    577.9 KB · Views: 11
  • 20160908_164338.jpg
    20160908_164338.jpg
    572.4 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
185,911
Messages
2,879,535
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top