Building an elk hunting rig
- Thread starter Jkrpan
- Start date
boxcar1
boxcar1
I have to agree with you about Wikapedia. There never wrong or confusing...
That's why I mentioned first where the info came from.
I'd also agree that If I were building a rig for -25 F , I'd probably have used a composite skin over a 2" steel frame. And may have thrown a bit of added weight into the rig by adding a layer of 1/8" luan as an exterior underlay between the composite and chassis.
Not sure if I like that idea, just brain storming here.
I'm just a bit leery of the FRP skins with nothing but the foam as a backer.
I should have been more clear when I mentioned glass over wood in my previous post. I was talking of laying up a resin skin ( hand laid over a wood skin ). Heavy....
It defiantly gets cold in Colorado.... Here in Oregon , not so much.
One of the reasons I chose aluminum skin because it is malleable ( sp ) My roof and sides are all lapped over each other 1 ". ( roof over sides , front over sides , sides and roof over rear bulkhead. Then the corner trim is applied over the laps. )
The FRP sheeting requires one to rely solely upon a mechanical seal on all edges.
I'm excited to see pics of the chassis on the truck. Should be a good day.
That's why I mentioned first where the info came from.I'd also agree that If I were building a rig for -25 F , I'd probably have used a composite skin over a 2" steel frame. And may have thrown a bit of added weight into the rig by adding a layer of 1/8" luan as an exterior underlay between the composite and chassis.
Not sure if I like that idea, just brain storming here.
I'm just a bit leery of the FRP skins with nothing but the foam as a backer.
I should have been more clear when I mentioned glass over wood in my previous post. I was talking of laying up a resin skin ( hand laid over a wood skin ). Heavy....
It defiantly gets cold in Colorado.... Here in Oregon , not so much.
One of the reasons I chose aluminum skin because it is malleable ( sp ) My roof and sides are all lapped over each other 1 ". ( roof over sides , front over sides , sides and roof over rear bulkhead. Then the corner trim is applied over the laps. )
The FRP sheeting requires one to rely solely upon a mechanical seal on all edges.
I'm excited to see pics of the chassis on the truck. Should be a good day.
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Scoutn79
Adventurer
I have to agree with you about Wikapedia. There never wrong or confusing...
I'd also agree that If I were building a rig for -25 F , I'd probably have used a composite skin over a 2" steel frame. And may have thrown a bit of added weight into the rig by adding a layer of 1/8" luan as an exterior underlay between the composite and chassis.
Not sure if I like that idea, just brain storming here.
I'm just a bit leery of the FRP skins with nothing but the foam as a backer.
I should have been more clear when I mentioned glass over wood in my previous post. I was talking of laying up a resin skin ( hand laid over a wood skin ). Heavy....
It defiantly gets cold in Colorado.... Here in Oregon , not so much.
One of the reasons I chose aluminum skin because it is malleable ( sp ) My roof and sides are all lapped over each other 1 ". ( roof over sides , front over sides , sides and roof over rear bulkhead. Then the corner trim is applied over the laps. )
The FRP sheeting requires one to rely solely upon a mechanical seal on all edges.
I'm excited to see pics of the chassis on the truck. Should be a good day.
I guess when I hear "Elk hunting" I immediately think of the weather and conditions I experience here in Colorado.
The fiberglass I was referring to wouldn't be the FRP used in commercial bathrooms but a fiberglass composite similar in strength and thickness to that used on modern campers.
Looks like you have some good height, can you stand up in it?
Can't wait to see the rest of your build.
Darrell
Awesome build, looks like quick progress. I dig the shape of your structure.
Do some research into galvanic corrosion if you havent already. The interface of steel and aluminum, especially when using fasteners could cause problems. Stainless fasteners also seem to do a pretty good job in regards to galvanic corrosion.
A good solution may be to paint the entire steel skeleton to corrosion proof the interface and frame, then use 3m VHB tape to attach your paneling. The tape in conjunction with something like sikaflex will aid in sealing the seams. It will also provide a small standoff to help break the thermal bridge on the interior stud. I dont know how much of a concern it is in actuality, but I would be concerned about the fastened interface between the wood interior skin and the steel framework. Seems like it might rot if condensate forms from the thermal bridge.
This could all be entirely overkill and your camper will probably work great regardless of whether or not you listen to us armchair engineers. Hit me up if you want some more opinions, but I am definitely looking forward to what becomes of this!
Also, you can pretty readily buy 5x12 sheets of aluminum if that would work in your scheme. Dont limit yourself to 4x8 seams.
Do some research into galvanic corrosion if you havent already. The interface of steel and aluminum, especially when using fasteners could cause problems. Stainless fasteners also seem to do a pretty good job in regards to galvanic corrosion.
A good solution may be to paint the entire steel skeleton to corrosion proof the interface and frame, then use 3m VHB tape to attach your paneling. The tape in conjunction with something like sikaflex will aid in sealing the seams. It will also provide a small standoff to help break the thermal bridge on the interior stud. I dont know how much of a concern it is in actuality, but I would be concerned about the fastened interface between the wood interior skin and the steel framework. Seems like it might rot if condensate forms from the thermal bridge.
This could all be entirely overkill and your camper will probably work great regardless of whether or not you listen to us armchair engineers. Hit me up if you want some more opinions, but I am definitely looking forward to what becomes of this!
Also, you can pretty readily buy 5x12 sheets of aluminum if that would work in your scheme. Dont limit yourself to 4x8 seams.
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boxcar1
boxcar1
I like it.
As a wise man once sed. " It's not what you can buy that counts. But rather, what you can build."
I spent the better part of two days building my jacking system. Now that it won't be used again seems like a waist of time. But it did work well.
You might want to check it out . It's covered in my build thread.
If you want more info PM me.
As a wise man once sed. " It's not what you can buy that counts. But rather, what you can build."
I spent the better part of two days building my jacking system. Now that it won't be used again seems like a waist of time. But it did work well.
You might want to check it out . It's covered in my build thread.
If you want more info PM me.