'14 Silverado 1500 - Working Dog / Cross Country Cruiser Build
- Thread starter fiddypal
- Start date
Link or part number? Not really sure what you are talking about and where it would go... Are you talking about plastic covers that run the length of the bed rails? My truck came with those installed and factory bed liner sprayed in.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-trucks-travel-and-camping?highlight=bushcoat
Post #10 on my thread.
23461926 and 23461927 are the GM parts number. I paid under $30 for both with tax, in Canada.
Post #10 on my thread.
23461926 and 23461927 are the GM parts number. I paid under $30 for both with tax, in Canada.
jimi breeze
jimi breeze
Don't beat yourself up on vehicle choice. Looks like you need the space of the rear cab and bed that other vehicles may not provide. I've done a similar build on my 2010 Silverado. (dual battery, removed rear seat, bed cap, plus many, many mods over the years)
Yea plus a longer truck would suck to drive, it took me a long time to get used to driving the silverado.
Here are some pics of the battery install today. Ran my 4awg power lines to the rear, 15ft was just enough for where I wanted them to end. Need to get some washers and waiting for my fuses then I can hook everything up.
I also pulled the inner rubber grommet on the firewall out some when I forced the cables thru, I need to unplug that damn fuse box that's in the way so I can get a good grip on it and jam it back in to proper position. I did jam 2 4awg wires thru a coat hanger sized hole so I am sureprised it wasn't worse, will be a quick fix.
Ran the power lines thru the factory wire tracks then buttoned it back up.
Here are some pics of the battery install today. Ran my 4awg power lines to the rear, 15ft was just enough for where I wanted them to end. Need to get some washers and waiting for my fuses then I can hook everything up.
I also pulled the inner rubber grommet on the firewall out some when I forced the cables thru, I need to unplug that damn fuse box that's in the way so I can get a good grip on it and jam it back in to proper position. I did jam 2 4awg wires thru a coat hanger sized hole so I am sureprised it wasn't worse, will be a quick fix.
Ran the power lines thru the factory wire tracks then buttoned it back up.
Pics of the factory wire harness location, this had just enough room to run 2 4awg power cables. Lines came out right behind where the seats would be, but it's behind the wall I made. Then I hooked up a 15amp auto reset fuse to the fridge quick connect, and just a straight un-fused pig tail for another accessory like a fan or something.
Will throw the fridge in once I get my fuses to complete the setup under the hood done.
My battery is a 70 amp hour over 20 hour period according to label. What kind of life can I expect out of that, should be able to keep a dometic cf50 going over night I hope?
Will throw the fridge in once I get my fuses to complete the setup under the hood done.
My battery is a 70 amp hour over 20 hour period according to label. What kind of life can I expect out of that, should be able to keep a dometic cf50 going over night I hope?
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Got my fuse blocks in, these things are massive! Just waiting on a battery post and then i can finish my install today of the 2nd battery system. If I have enough time i will start working on my mounting system for the fridge and some other things. Need to fix the weather strip under a small section of my cap that was installed as there is a slight leak due to the folder over stripping, then seal up a few holes in the bed before I start working on my platforms back there.
1stDeuce
Explorer
Looking good! That battery should be fine to run the fridge overnight. Since you'll be driving most every day, it'll charge back up while you drive and be ready for another night!
As for your plans, I'm not sure the timing, but since you don't have much time, I assume it's coming fast... You may want to consider sticking south as long as possible, then head north to Yellowstone... The park is closed to wheeled vehicles all winter, and already closed to snow coaches too. The roads don't open until April/May. There's a schedule here: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/parkroads.htm
If you're coming over to see Grand Canyon, there's other stuff nearby that's also interesting... Valley of the Gods is a great place to spend a night. While there, drive up Moqui Dugway, and out to Mulie point. Monument Valley is right there too, so you can see the "Forrest Gump" road, and all the sights.
Driving across Colorado is never bad, just make sure your intended route is open. They try to open most paved pass roads by Memorial Day, but most of the trail passes open later. The drive from Durango to Ouray is pretty wild. Ouray has a nice hot springs you can take a soak in for cheap too.
Try to make it through Moab and do a little sight seeing and hiking. (Visit arches, at least.) Spend a night camping out Kane Creek Rd, and drive up to Hurrah Pass for a nice view. (Ledge campgrounds)
If you end up over by Salmon, ID, hike up to Goldbug hot springs. Very nice natural hot springs. (Or it was when I was there, ~10 years ago...)
Ok, that's enough... I best get to work!!
As for your plans, I'm not sure the timing, but since you don't have much time, I assume it's coming fast... You may want to consider sticking south as long as possible, then head north to Yellowstone... The park is closed to wheeled vehicles all winter, and already closed to snow coaches too. The roads don't open until April/May. There's a schedule here: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/parkroads.htm
If you're coming over to see Grand Canyon, there's other stuff nearby that's also interesting... Valley of the Gods is a great place to spend a night. While there, drive up Moqui Dugway, and out to Mulie point. Monument Valley is right there too, so you can see the "Forrest Gump" road, and all the sights.
Driving across Colorado is never bad, just make sure your intended route is open. They try to open most paved pass roads by Memorial Day, but most of the trail passes open later. The drive from Durango to Ouray is pretty wild. Ouray has a nice hot springs you can take a soak in for cheap too.
Try to make it through Moab and do a little sight seeing and hiking. (Visit arches, at least.) Spend a night camping out Kane Creek Rd, and drive up to Hurrah Pass for a nice view. (Ledge campgrounds)
If you end up over by Salmon, ID, hike up to Goldbug hot springs. Very nice natural hot springs. (Or it was when I was there, ~10 years ago...)
Ok, that's enough... I best get to work!!
Finished the 2nd battery install and got my back wall bolted down and fridge mounted.
Also snapped a pic of the teton sports mats I bought for the bed. Also have a memory foam topper I will throw over these to have a nice comfy bed.
Will try and do a write up and some more detailed pics soon.
Also snapped a pic of the teton sports mats I bought for the bed. Also have a memory foam topper I will throw over these to have a nice comfy bed.
Will try and do a write up and some more detailed pics soon.
Thanks Chilli! Looking forward to getting this thing wrapped up and doing some test trips this summer. I live out in woods/farmland so plenty of places to do some light off-roading and camping.
Here's all the details and pics i didnt have time to upload before
250A fuse going between the power lines on the batteries, and the power line feeding into the cab.
Made a bracket out of some steel stock for the stinger, just bent it with a hammer on a vise.
Pro-tip on running the cable thru firewall: allow enough slack so you can make a dip in your wires, if any water does get in the hood gravity will take it to the lowest point of the wire, so make sure the lowest point is not the nipple on the firewall housing!
U bolts holding the back wall in place, and the custom brackets i made for the fridge with the fridge removed.
Also a nice pic of all the snow i woke up to this morning, gotta love new england! (my truck was covered this morning with 6 inches)
Fridge brackets, used those little things where you drill a hole into a piece of wood then hammer it in from the back and it gives you a little screw hole to thread into (not sure what they are called).
Metal piece is just metal stock from home depot i cut to length and bent in a J shape in the vise, you just slide the fridge back until it meets the wall and you are good to go. Because of the tightness in the plastic mount on the fridge, and the fact that the weighted fridge is on carpet, it cant slide off the metal bars without human power as it has to be slide perfect straight for about 3/4 of a foot. When you brake hard and things fly forward, it naturally tries to tip and jams itself in place so haven't had the need to bend the ends and make it "permanently" secured. This is good as i can take the fridge in and out without having to take the brackets off the side of the fridge each time which would be a pain.
Here's all the details and pics i didnt have time to upload before
250A fuse going between the power lines on the batteries, and the power line feeding into the cab.
Made a bracket out of some steel stock for the stinger, just bent it with a hammer on a vise.
Pro-tip on running the cable thru firewall: allow enough slack so you can make a dip in your wires, if any water does get in the hood gravity will take it to the lowest point of the wire, so make sure the lowest point is not the nipple on the firewall housing!
U bolts holding the back wall in place, and the custom brackets i made for the fridge with the fridge removed.
Also a nice pic of all the snow i woke up to this morning, gotta love new england! (my truck was covered this morning with 6 inches)
Fridge brackets, used those little things where you drill a hole into a piece of wood then hammer it in from the back and it gives you a little screw hole to thread into (not sure what they are called).
Metal piece is just metal stock from home depot i cut to length and bent in a J shape in the vise, you just slide the fridge back until it meets the wall and you are good to go. Because of the tightness in the plastic mount on the fridge, and the fact that the weighted fridge is on carpet, it cant slide off the metal bars without human power as it has to be slide perfect straight for about 3/4 of a foot. When you brake hard and things fly forward, it naturally tries to tip and jams itself in place so haven't had the need to bend the ends and make it "permanently" secured. This is good as i can take the fridge in and out without having to take the brackets off the side of the fridge each time which would be a pain.
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gunrunner99
Observer
Looking good. I have the same truck. I went with the DRE shell. I also went with the shorter bed as the true 6' one was only available on the longer wheel base. We are camping in it for the first time this weekend but not as well set up as yours. Our dog rides on the back seat but I might pull the double seat out and make a spot like you did for her. Thanks for the ideas. Also can you list the parts you used for the extra battery setup.
No problem dude!
2nd battery setup :
ATR fuse tap with 10amp fuse (this is to tap the ignition fuse in fuse box under hood, I'll snap a pic of how I ran mine out for ya)
2x 250amp in line fuse that accept 0 to 4 awg wire (mine were lightening audio brand off Amazon but it's just a plastic tube with a fuse in it any will do) one fuse between the batteries and another on the power line going into the truck cab.
10 or 12awg primary wire (used for the fuse tap connection and ground connections on the isolator)
0/1 awg wire for the connections between the batteries
Stinger 200amp isolator
When I'm on the computer later I'll post up all the amazons links to the parts I got, I also have another pic where I drew all the wire connections in paint so they are easy to follow.
One huge tip that scared the **** out of my when doing the install. There is some sort of switch on the hood that prevents the remote start from working when it's open. So when it's all installed and your ready to test it, make sure the hood is closed if you plan to use the remote start to fire it up, lol.
Also, what kind of dog do you have and how big? Previous to this setup I had a normal 2x3 crate jammed behind the driver seat with the 2 piece seat in the back removed. Worked great but it was too small a space for my pup who's 90lbs so I had to expand.
2nd battery setup :
ATR fuse tap with 10amp fuse (this is to tap the ignition fuse in fuse box under hood, I'll snap a pic of how I ran mine out for ya)
2x 250amp in line fuse that accept 0 to 4 awg wire (mine were lightening audio brand off Amazon but it's just a plastic tube with a fuse in it any will do) one fuse between the batteries and another on the power line going into the truck cab.
10 or 12awg primary wire (used for the fuse tap connection and ground connections on the isolator)
0/1 awg wire for the connections between the batteries
Stinger 200amp isolator
When I'm on the computer later I'll post up all the amazons links to the parts I got, I also have another pic where I drew all the wire connections in paint so they are easy to follow.
One huge tip that scared the **** out of my when doing the install. There is some sort of switch on the hood that prevents the remote start from working when it's open. So when it's all installed and your ready to test it, make sure the hood is closed if you plan to use the remote start to fire it up, lol.
Also, what kind of dog do you have and how big? Previous to this setup I had a normal 2x3 crate jammed behind the driver seat with the 2 piece seat in the back removed. Worked great but it was too small a space for my pup who's 90lbs so I had to expand.
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Stinger Isolator - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HBYXVS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Hardware to hold the second battery in place:
mount - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO8ZJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
bolt - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y8KKM8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Power distribution blocks for inside the cab to run wires to your devices: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071GKSL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Battery Terminals for the 2nd battery with 3 inputs (0/1 gauge, 4 gauge, 8 gauge) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JK9FTLC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
AGM Diehard Group 48 Battery (exact match for our truck) - http://www.sears.com/diehard-advanced-gold-agm-battery-group-size-48/p-02850748000P
10awg quick disconnect plugs (for wiring accessories in the truck so you can just plug and play and remove items to use else where instead of having them hard wired to the truck permanently.) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCRJUQ4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
I bought "Stinger" brand wire from darvex.com that was the cheapest place i could find. I went with this brand since i was copying another owners build for a high end audio system, and from the research i did you really have to be careful buying thick cables online because alot of them are chicom crap or copper clad aluminum which has a higher resistance. You want a pure copper wire for the runs between the batteries at a minimum since thats where the alternator is going to be pumping major juice back in. I only ran 4awg into my cab since i don't plan on running anything crazy off it.
Hardware to hold the second battery in place:
mount - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO8ZJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
bolt - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y8KKM8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Power distribution blocks for inside the cab to run wires to your devices: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071GKSL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Battery Terminals for the 2nd battery with 3 inputs (0/1 gauge, 4 gauge, 8 gauge) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JK9FTLC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
AGM Diehard Group 48 Battery (exact match for our truck) - http://www.sears.com/diehard-advanced-gold-agm-battery-group-size-48/p-02850748000P
10awg quick disconnect plugs (for wiring accessories in the truck so you can just plug and play and remove items to use else where instead of having them hard wired to the truck permanently.) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCRJUQ4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
I bought "Stinger" brand wire from darvex.com that was the cheapest place i could find. I went with this brand since i was copying another owners build for a high end audio system, and from the research i did you really have to be careful buying thick cables online because alot of them are chicom crap or copper clad aluminum which has a higher resistance. You want a pure copper wire for the runs between the batteries at a minimum since thats where the alternator is going to be pumping major juice back in. I only ran 4awg into my cab since i don't plan on running anything crazy off it.
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