What is everyone using to power their portable fridges?

spikemd

Explorer
I mounted an inverter in the back of my truck years ago, but during the past 6 years, I only used it once. Anything I need to power is 12v or USB. I finally took it out last month's and tossed it.

The Yeti has USB, 12v and 110v if needed built in.
 

Robert Bills

Explorer
I use a poor mans ArkPak. Its a Minolta trolling motor power box with a group 31 DHP. Its mainly use this setup to power a 50q ARB. The power box is a very nice and cheap alternative to the higher price stuffs. I use a NOCO g7200 pluged in to the inverter in the bed of my Tacoma to keep the DHP charged when we are driving. I know its not a the most efficient way to have a "duel battery setup" but its cheap, portable and has worked very well for the last 1.5 years.

http://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G7200-UltraSafe-Battery-Charger/dp/B004LWTHP2

I use a similar, but really, really "poor man's" system in my Bantam trailer: The same battery box with an Interstate DC27 battery from Costco, hooked up to my tow rig for charging while towing through a constant duty solenoid, 8 ga. wire to the 7-pin trailer connector, then more 8 ga. wire to the battery box. It powers an Engel 45 fridge and some lights. The fridge isn't hardwired, but instead uses the 12v cigar lighter style plug on the battery box. Being really, really poor when I installed it, the system does not have an onboard charger or inverter, nor is there a solar system. I have made do with using a bench charger at home and the charge from the tow rig while driving. It works for regular and holiday weekends, but not longer trips.

Its time to upgrade. I am in the process of ordering a 100w Renogy suitcase solar kit (through a group buy in progress on another forum which shall remain nameless to comply with Expo rules), and am starting to look at onboard chargers/power supplies such as the Noco Genius, Battery Tender or Battery Minder.

I am very interested in cost-effective onboard charger/power supplies used by forum members for similar basic homebrew systems.
 

vision-quest

Observer
Yes, back up to 100% or close. Just remember the bigger the panel in available wattage the quicker your battery will charge and the more likely it will charge in less than ideal lighting conditions. Now if you hook it up and walk away for days a smaller panel will probably work fine. There are lots of options but I wold propose the following.

Option 1:
ARB Wiring Kit, New Deep Cycle battery for your truck. I have a X2 75AH battery from Batteries Plus, Solar panel or Suitcase setup with a controller and a jump box. Add a few BlueSea USB ports to your truck that can be always on and you have the ability to keep phones and tablets charged up. Disadvantage is you have no inverter if you need one.

Option 2: Because you don't want to mess with the internals of your truck and or want a portable setup
Get the ArkPak 730 since it can handle a Lithium Ion battery down the road. Get a good battery at least 55amp hour higher preferred but it will make the setup heavier and get the solar panel of your choice (Same as above). This gives you a few USB ports, 2 12 volts sockets and an inverter if you need to charge something like a laptop. You don't have to mess with anything in your vehicle. Yes, a Goal Zero Yeti would work I am just not familiar with them and not sure how you can replace the battery or if one could take the improved technology of a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery down the road.



I linked it. I would love to own one. Price point is steep but you can get the 30% energy credit so in theory it's around $1000.00. About twice what an ArkPak and Group 31 battery would cost with close to twice the available power. Really the Kodiak is overkill for just powering a fridge and a few smaller items. It does have the "prepper" aspect of it to power things in your home like your home refrigerator in the event of a lengthy power outage.

Don't get caught in decision paralysis. Either one of those solutions works well. I have both because my wife sometimes needs portable power independent of what I use for overlanding/camping.

So, I have a Kodiak on the way. I will update once I receive an test it. Stoked!
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
I use the stock Toyota battery to power my fridge, and a 60 watt folding Powerfilm solar panel to keep the main battery charged up.
I have a dual battery system just in case.
As a test I have ran my fridge before for close to five days without starting the rig with the main battery, and it started up however a little sluggish.
This was also without using the solar setup to keep the battery topped off.
ARB fridges are very efficient.

I also have the Arkpak system to power other stuff like camp LED lighting, and to charge up camera batteries, etc.

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LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
100 watts of solar combined with 110AH of battery. Never pay any attention to placement or orientation, I just do my thing and the set up takes care of me and provide my power needs.
 

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vision-quest

Observer
I use the stock Toyota battery to power my fridge, and a 60 watt folding Powerfilm solar panel to keep the main battery charged up.
I have a dual battery system just in case.
As a test I have ran my fridge before for close to five days without starting the rig with the main battery, and it started up however a little sluggish.
This was also without using the solar setup to keep the battery topped off.
ARB fridges are very efficient.

I also have the Arkpak system to power other stuff like camp LED lighting, and to charge up camera batteries, etc.

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Nice rig! Interested in the reasoning behind the foldable solar panel when you could attach a panel to the rooftop tent? That's kind of the main reason I'm looking at upgrading from a CVT fold-out to a James Baroud wind-up, because I don't know where I can put solar panels when I'm not at the vehicle (out hiking for a few days etc).
 

dennismc

Observer
I use a National Luna portable power pack with an Odyssey group 34 to run my Arb63 qt. Use an overland solar 100 watt panel to keep things charged and use their cable lock to lock to the truck. They offer extra battery harnesses you attach to the battery and just plug into whichever one you want to charge, I have one on the Luna and one on the Odyssey 1750 in the truck. I also use an inverter from Overland solar for any 12v recharging needed. This setup is nice because when not camping all parts come out and go into the garage.
 

dfinn

Adventurer
I use the stock Toyota battery to power my fridge, and a 60 watt folding Powerfilm solar panel to keep the main battery charged up.

Corey, does that solar panel connect straight to the battery or is there a charge controller in between? I thought you risk over charging the battery w/o the charge controller but maybe with a smaller panel it's OK?
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Corey, does that solar panel connect straight to the battery or is there a charge controller in between? I thought you risk over charging the battery w/o the charge controller but maybe with a smaller panel it's OK?
The panel plugs into a socket on my grill, then the wires from the socket go to a Brunton charge controller.
You should always use a charge controller.

I also have a nice suitcase style 100 watt panel with built in charge controller for the ArkPac.

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Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Nice rig! Interested in the reasoning behind the foldable solar panel when you could attach a panel to the rooftop tent? That's kind of the main reason I'm looking at upgrading from a CVT fold-out to a James Baroud wind-up, because I don't know where I can put solar panels when I'm not at the vehicle (out hiking for a few days etc).
Thanks!
I did not want it on the tent as I like having it this way so I can track the sun with it.
I do have a second 100 watt suitcase style like mentioned in my post above, but I use it for the ArkPacs battery, not my rigs.
I could also use it for my main battery if I wanted too, and just bypass my Brunton charge controller.
 

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