I spoke with Don Thuren about tire recommendations. All he said was stay away from BFG's on a CTD for the same reasons mentioned above. Hands down, he said TOYO!
08 Dodge Ram 2500 megacab - slow build
- Thread starter KSL22
- Start date
I spoke with Don Thuren about tire recommendations. All he said was stay away from BFG's on a CTD for the same reasons mentioned above. Hands down, he said TOYO!
Do you think the problem still exists with the KO2 with the redesign. The 35x12.5x17 are tagged as a E tire. My dad is real happy with them on his Disco II but that is a whole different vehicle. I might be getting the opportunity to buy 4 new KO2 for $800.
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Guys buy wheels like girls buy dresses. If they fit well and make you look good than price becomes less of and issue. 
If they support the areas that need supporting, even better.
Lucky for me I like the look of the Methods and I couldn't beat the price. I only wish they made a +20 in a 17" wheel. The extra width was nice going through the canyons though. Made it easier to keep the sheet metal out of the dirt.
If they support the areas that need supporting, even better. Lucky for me I like the look of the Methods and I couldn't beat the price. I only wish they made a +20 in a 17" wheel. The extra width was nice going through the canyons though. Made it easier to keep the sheet metal out of the dirt.
So that catches us up to my last days off 5/04. I had been fighting the power steering getting worse and worse over the last few months. I finally broke down and bought the parts. I first thought I would just replace the pump, but my PS box has been loose since I bought the truck so a week later I started looking into steering boxes.
I got the upgraded power steering pump kit 68102457AA which is actually separated into three separate parts. I was able to get a good deal on the parts at one of the local dealerships.
The pump and pulley - $488.40 w/ $50.0 core
The reservoir - $80.03 w/ $10.00 core
A bracket - $39.00 w/ $5.00 core
New Pump (picture from the net)
This would be the stock pump for my generation.
After much research I went with the upgrade "big" box from Dodge rather than the Red Head or the other popular swap. I liked the larger sector shaft and internals over the others. I couldn't get it from the same guy at the first dealership so I called around and Crown Dodge in Oxnard got real close to the best price I could find online. No one else budged on the retail price. Not having to ship any cores made the little bit extra worth it. The PN for the upgrade box is 68170214AA. This is the box, pitman arm, and inner drag link. I paid around $710 for the kit including the $75 core and two quarts of Mopar ATF.
Removal is fairly straight forward support the frame, remove both tires, remove drivers inner fender, remove fan shroud, remove serpentine belt, remove inner drag link from pitman. Pull lines from PS cooler and drain, Remove lines from brake booster, remove lines from PS box, Remove 2 of the three bolts holding the box to the frame, Remove the last bolt while getting ready to catch the box, lower the box, remove the lines from the PS pump, remove the pump.
Install everything in reverse. Issues I had were: The new box is a lot bigger and heavier, as such the PS lines off the pump and box need a little help finding fitment, and it took a little more struggle holding it there while I got the first bolt started. I installed the new inner drag link that comes in the kit loosely into the pitman arm while cycling the steering to remove air. This broke the threads off the tie rod the second time it wet to lock. That was a $100 ($160 retail) oops. The nut to attach the pitman arm is a 1 15/16" socket. No one had it for sale and most shops didn't even have one to use. Ultimate Truck Performance sent me to Big Brand Tire as that is were they go to borrow it.
The truck steering is fantastic now. I no longer fear pulling into parking lots. It is also real tight and I no longer get feed back crossing sharp bumps through corners.
I got the upgraded power steering pump kit 68102457AA which is actually separated into three separate parts. I was able to get a good deal on the parts at one of the local dealerships.
The pump and pulley - $488.40 w/ $50.0 core
The reservoir - $80.03 w/ $10.00 core
A bracket - $39.00 w/ $5.00 core
New Pump (picture from the net)
This would be the stock pump for my generation.
After much research I went with the upgrade "big" box from Dodge rather than the Red Head or the other popular swap. I liked the larger sector shaft and internals over the others. I couldn't get it from the same guy at the first dealership so I called around and Crown Dodge in Oxnard got real close to the best price I could find online. No one else budged on the retail price. Not having to ship any cores made the little bit extra worth it. The PN for the upgrade box is 68170214AA. This is the box, pitman arm, and inner drag link. I paid around $710 for the kit including the $75 core and two quarts of Mopar ATF.
Removal is fairly straight forward support the frame, remove both tires, remove drivers inner fender, remove fan shroud, remove serpentine belt, remove inner drag link from pitman. Pull lines from PS cooler and drain, Remove lines from brake booster, remove lines from PS box, Remove 2 of the three bolts holding the box to the frame, Remove the last bolt while getting ready to catch the box, lower the box, remove the lines from the PS pump, remove the pump.
Install everything in reverse. Issues I had were: The new box is a lot bigger and heavier, as such the PS lines off the pump and box need a little help finding fitment, and it took a little more struggle holding it there while I got the first bolt started. I installed the new inner drag link that comes in the kit loosely into the pitman arm while cycling the steering to remove air. This broke the threads off the tie rod the second time it wet to lock. That was a $100 ($160 retail) oops. The nut to attach the pitman arm is a 1 15/16" socket. No one had it for sale and most shops didn't even have one to use. Ultimate Truck Performance sent me to Big Brand Tire as that is were they go to borrow it.
The truck steering is fantastic now. I no longer fear pulling into parking lots. It is also real tight and I no longer get feed back crossing sharp bumps through corners.
michelin are by far the best tires followed by some toyos.
DW is caused also by an used steering damper , on my dodge skyjacker cured my dw (or rancho see cummins forum)
after trying 19.5 tires and rims I went back to my michelin with r17 original rims. bigger tires are lost mpg and confort
http://globalcamper.blogspot.ca/p/4x4-dodge-ram-camper.html
DW is caused also by an used steering damper , on my dodge skyjacker cured my dw (or rancho see cummins forum)
after trying 19.5 tires and rims I went back to my michelin with r17 original rims. bigger tires are lost mpg and confort
http://globalcamper.blogspot.ca/p/4x4-dodge-ram-camper.html
Highway Camper
New member
I have a 2014 Ram 2500 4x4 diesel CCSB Laramie with a Snugtop shell that I have taken on a few desert washes and it does quite well, where it fits. The 2014 sits quite high stock with coils front and rear with long radius arms front. I am putting some Michelin Defenders 295-70-18 on it and that will be a little larger tire but will really not help the off road ability of the truck. They are really just to big and heavy (8000 pounds) for anything other than dirt roads unless you want to risk some body damage. Set up correctly they could be an effective explore truck but the tight rough trails would be a no. I use it to tow a TT on vacations. One of the hardest things is finding back roads that a full size 4x4 truck can go on without it being a road a sedan can travel or a Jeep needed.
I have a trip in planning http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ne-15-18-Jawbone-to-Kernville-to-Kern-Plateau that should test the abilities of the truck some. I am not going to risk sheet metal but I will push it right up to that point.
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Highway Camper
New member
Well, if you can do it with the Mega cab I should have no problem. I have been on a suite called BDR covering several states of back roads. These routes are designed for "adventure bikes" but are also 4x4 friendly in many places. Problem is knowing where they are not and in some places a Jeep type vehicle is needed. There is a BDR org and I have thought of contacting them but not sure how they would like a truck on their bike routes. I obviously would not go on any "single track" routes. Many of the Expedition routes I see here are just dirt roads and I have no problem with that. I did the Rubicon Trail last summer with a friend and that is WAY passed what most do here.
Most of the single track up on the Kern Plateau is not Adventure Bike friendly.
Biggest bike I would want to ride up there would be a KTM 690 or XR650. I ride a geared down 08' CRF 450R with a 18" rear. I ran a trials tire rear up there due to the amount of rocks. Up on the plateau it is either easy road / easy Jeep trail or single track. I have had my Excursion down to Monache (well technically my dad did). There is no wide quad type trails that you could really sneak a truck down. I did the Rubicon from Tahoe staging to Loon dam and back one day a few summers ago...on my 450. That was a pain in the *** as I did not have my bike set up as it is now.
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uscg2008, here are the current suspension pictures as promised. Let me know if you want to see anything else.
Synergy progressive 3.0 Springs and Fox 2.0 IFP shocks
Tuff Country Adjustable sway bar links
Fox 2.0 IFP steering dampener and 09' and up T-style steering linkage. Way larger than the 08' and down Y-style it replaced.
Carli Suspension mild steel arms
Synergy progressive 3.0 Springs and Fox 2.0 IFP shocks
Tuff Country Adjustable sway bar links
Fox 2.0 IFP steering dampener and 09' and up T-style steering linkage. Way larger than the 08' and down Y-style it replaced.
Carli Suspension mild steel arms
You know how every once in a while you see a tool and think, "that is genius". This is one of those tools. My buddy Dave had one in his crane prep bag on a shoot I went on and I knew I had to have it. Harbor Freight strikes again.
!/2" drive extendable ratchet / breaker bar.
This in combination with my Porter Cable 20v impact makes tire changes fast and easy.
!/2" drive extendable ratchet / breaker bar.
This in combination with my Porter Cable 20v impact makes tire changes fast and easy.
The tire fairy came for a visit. Remember when I said that I had to go to Big Brand Tire in Camarillo to get my pitman arm tightened? Did i mention that they put it on their rack and tightened it for free? While they were helping me out with that I was talking tires and they gave me a price I couldn't refuse, but they had to be BFG and it had to happen this month. So here I am with new 35x12.5r17 BFG KO2 all-terrains.
They look a little small for some reason but list as 34.5". They are pretty much the same size as the half worn General red labels on the factory 17x8 wheel.
I wish there was a better rim guard. I would figure that would be standard on any new designed off road tire even if it is a Mall Terrain.
I was able to fit the General red label 35x12.5 on the factory wheel in the spare opening. I put 8 factory lug nuts in a canvas bag up in the wheel. I had them mount my other rear as well so now I have a spare, spare tire...or tailer wheels and tires if I build a trailer some day
The spare steel rim got me thinking as well as I do have a set of TTF weld on beadlocks for 17" wheels. If I find 3 more I could mount trail only 37's...
If you live in the greater Ventura area I would definitely check out Big Brand tire on Dawson and Pleasant Valley. Ask for Ryan (store manager) and see if he can set you up.
They look a little small for some reason but list as 34.5". They are pretty much the same size as the half worn General red labels on the factory 17x8 wheel.
I wish there was a better rim guard. I would figure that would be standard on any new designed off road tire even if it is a Mall Terrain.
I was able to fit the General red label 35x12.5 on the factory wheel in the spare opening. I put 8 factory lug nuts in a canvas bag up in the wheel. I had them mount my other rear as well so now I have a spare, spare tire...or tailer wheels and tires if I build a trailer some day
The spare steel rim got me thinking as well as I do have a set of TTF weld on beadlocks for 17" wheels. If I find 3 more I could mount trail only 37's...
If you live in the greater Ventura area I would definitely check out Big Brand tire on Dawson and Pleasant Valley. Ask for Ryan (store manager) and see if he can set you up.
The used parts fairy gave me a call. A friend called that he had traded in his truck and that he stripped all the performance stuff off of it first. So with some wheeling and dealing I got all this for $800. Looks like I will be going smog free in the near future.
inventory breakdown:
- Firestone airbags
- Air Ride in cab controller
- Firestone Air compressor
- Air tank
- AFE intake
- 5" turbo back exhaust
- particulate filter delete pipe (if you dont want to install the whole exhaust)
- Smarty S-67 with ME file
- EGR delete plates
- Edge CS Insight
- Factory hitch (didn't need it, but why not)
Spent some time last night on how I want to wire the bags. I think i will run the bags off the little compressor by itself using the Air Ride controller. I also have plans for remounting the controller / gauges into the center console on a aluminum plate. I also want the bags removable when not towing so I have to figure that out. Don't need them limiting my up travel and adding more spring rate. I will more than likely use the Daystar air bag cradle http://daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=1232 as well.
I have a Smittybilt 2781 compressor. I will plumb that to the tank and mount it all under the bed. That should free up some room in my gear box. I need to get a pressure switch and figure out the wiring.
I also have to look up to see if I had to smog my truck this cycle. I don't want to put all the stuff on it just to take it back off in December.
I have a Smittybilt 2781 compressor. I will plumb that to the tank and mount it all under the bed. That should free up some room in my gear box. I need to get a pressure switch and figure out the wiring.
I also have to look up to see if I had to smog my truck this cycle. I don't want to put all the stuff on it just to take it back off in December.
Highway Camper
New member
Smog check in Cal is every 2 years from new. Talk with your smog guy before removing stuff and setting off codes. I will never touch the smog equip on my 14.