Overland hundy / daily driver build

Towandakadeha

New member
Welcome to my humble build thread.

I found the 100 about three weeks ago after about 9month of hard search.

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2003, 171k miles, next to no Rust, 5.Spd, 1 Owner, serviced well, 1HD FTE, <3

I am turning the truck into an overland vehicle with some mod already been taken care of.

The previous owner already installed dual batteries (or they came factory?), fuel capacity is 96L which is neat at around 21mpg.

First on the agenda were seatcovers and the "AXE" mod

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than all interior lights were exchanged with leds

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and the running boards were taken off....

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So far so good.

The week after I finally got around to the fabrication of my drawers. The sub frame was done out of square 1inch aluminum tubing, the side panels are 1,5mm aluminum sheets. All was than pop riveted in place. (Frame/Sliders/Panels)

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I only used stainless steel hardware for handles and hinges.

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Top deck is 18mm and front cover 9mm phenolic resign coated plywood.

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Towandakadeha

New member
Bilder (15).jpg

On top I mounted my version of a tilt fridge slide with a Engel 45 and milled out the pockets for the tie down rails. Afterwards I mounted 2 springs with 25kg spring rate each to counterbalance the loaded slide while tilting.

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(I just placed the jerrys for a quick size check; they were empty....)

All in all I am quite happy with the outcome.



Next on the list is a snorkel, third battery (180ah) with sterling b2b charger 60A and a switch panel.
 

razzman1

Observer
That's a nice looking drawer system. Do you feel like the nylon corners and connectors will be strong enough? Also, could you explain how the tilt tray for your Engel works?

Thanks
 

Towandakadeha

New member
That's a nice looking drawer system. Do you feel like the nylon corners and connectors will be strong enough? Also, could you explain how the tilt tray for your Engel works?

Thanks

Thanks razz! I am quite confident that the cargo net will take its fair share of abuse, the corners are built strong. The tie down / rigging points will do this without breaking a sweat. This being said- I am not so confident for full jerrys (regarding the net), in this case I would use a heavier strap.

I will take some pictures tomorrow which should do the explaining.
 

Towandakadeha

New member
I had time to snap some quick shots, I guess it is pretty self explanatory. I took 3 boards of phenolic resign coated plywood and screwed on a L bracket (5mm strong). Onto that L I then riveted the slides, followed by riveting a smaller L to the inside of them ( here came the thinner 9mm panel to play, the other boards being 18mm..) Afterwards I milled out 2 pockets in the 18mm panels for the hinges in order to allow the two boards to rest flush. Then I attached 2 springs in back to provide some counterforce for the tilted loaded fridge. The little Pin locks everything in place nice, but the slides having a lock in the fully closed position helps too. Hope this helps
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ricardo

Observer
Finally A setup that is design like a integral component of a high performance Airplane/boat, not a Home furniture add on/carpentry project with a bunch of steel tubes to make sure people know is tought..

Very nicely done, clean logical execution, congratulations..

Ps:Love phenolic, I don't know what they are thinking when they used carpet, yes is quiet but totally unsanitary.

As a suggestion, Maybe next time you can laminated your own ply with fiberglass core/layers and tridimensional stiffeners "Ribs", all the R&D has been done by skateboards companies for the last 30-40 years and is widely available..
 
Last edited:

Frisman

Observer
Really nice set up. only question.... Fridge; When Tilt.. How fast does the fridge comes down? I don't see stopping mechanism.
 

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