Simple Dual Battery Set-up Gone Wrong

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
I defer to others when it comes to Optimas, but, as you noted, Optima declares their yellow top to be a dual purpose, not deep cycle battery. Typically, this means thinner plates than a true deep cycle. Make a difference in this application? I don't know Optimas, but a dual purpose battery would not be my first choice for a camper battery. It is, of course, possible that the yellow top is, in fact, a deep cycle and that Optima simply advertises it as dual purpose. Your real world knowledge of Optimas is far superior to mine as I don't use them.

Whatever the case, it won't last if not properly charged per the manufacturer's specification. This should not be that hard to do with a decent alternator and an adequate solar charger.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Whatever the case, it won't last if not properly charged per the manufacturer's specification. This should not be that hard to do with a decent alternator and an adequate solar charger.
True dat. About 15 years ago I was having a fair amount of trouble with the dual Optimas in my Z71, and I happened to snag an invitation to SEMA. When I got to the Optima display, I spent about 40 minutes talking with the reps in the booth about their batteries and my issues. They insisted that the Yellows were true dual purpose batteries and were just as suited to starting duty as they were to deep cycle applications. Odyssey also claims that their batteries are true deep cycles, but are also fine in starting duty. This per live conversations with their tech people. True? I don't know. I have a pair of Optima Blue DPs in my Power Wagon, and they are pretty much dedicated to running the fridge on desert trips, but they can be switched in for emergency starting or winching duty. I have run them well below 10V a few times and they seem fine with my 270 amp alternator. I hate to admit it, but they are working a lot better than my Odyssey 2150 starting battery.
 

ofmountainsandbeaches

Blazing Trails
Thanks for the wisdom gents! Still testing my system now in Colombia. The system doesn't seem to be the issue anymore. I think I ran the Yellow top right down one time in the USA and never fully charged it back up. Then had issues with my solar panel and separate issue with the fridge in the Baja so we ran it dangerously low a few more times. And again, never fully charged it back up with a shore charger. It started with 55ah and when I pulled it from the AUX spot it would only last maybe 10ah.

Months later I moved it up to my starter battery and ditched a standard Canadian Tire lead battery. So far it cranks way harder! The loss of ah doesn't seem to affect the CCA.

New issue, the Blue top I bought doesn't seem to be charging up.. I think 'La Casa de Las Baterias' in El Salvador sold me a **** battery. When he brought it out the plastic covering it was carefully opened, but still looked new. We tested it before putting it in and it only had 12.3V 'new'. I questioned it and they assured me it was new and okay. Them having multiple location in Central America I figured if it wasn't I could swap it out further south. After a few nights bush camping in Panama the battery was lower than it should have been as we had the solar panel out so I took it in to another La Casa de Las Baterias to get tested and they took it for the night.. Next morning I cam back and after charging all night it was sitting at 12.5V. The technician there said once it was installed it would boost up to 13.1V, that it needed the connection. I called bull****, but we were loading the cars into the container to ship to Colombia in 30min time so I asked for a new one. The said they don't warranty other countries batteries. What a waste of time.

Now am I wrong to assume this blue top is toast as well? My shore power charger charges it up fully at minimum once a week and once it completes the max the battery rests at is 12.7. I apologize if these questions seem stupid, but with the language barrier down here any battery professional is basically useless to me.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
12.7 for a Blue is too low to be a full charge. From memory, a Blue should show OCV of 13.1 or 13.2, depending on whether it's a Blue starting battery or a Blue dual purpose. Blue specs are the same as the Red and Yellow Optimas, depending which Blue you have. But 12.7 is way low for either one. Is your shore charger designed for desulfation and with multi-stage charging for AGMs? Are you leaving the battery on the charger long enough for a full absorption charge? Some (most) new chargers have a separate setting for charging AGMs; on Cteks that setting is the "snowflake." Have you tried completely disconnecting the battery from all loads and running it through several consecutive reconditioning cycles on an appropriate charger/conditioner? Is the amperage on your charger adequate? A 2-amp tender won't cut it.
 

Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
If you need an idolator or something hard to find there, just have someone mail it to a hostel address in Antigua or Guat City.

I had a laptop screen sent to Guat City, and I had to go into the city to customs, but in the end it was only a few dollars in customs dues.

-Dan
 

Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
If you need an idolator or something hard to find there, just have someone mail it to a hostel address in Antigua or Guat City.

I had a laptop screen sent to Guat City, and I had to go into the city to customs, but in the end it was only a few dollars in customs dues.

-Dan
 

M.Bas

Adventurer
Diplostrat is correct. Stop and step back. Take some pics of the setup and post. It's hard to know what exactly is wrong without even seeing the setup. Without seeing the setup, everything said is simply a guess. There are a lot of questions to be asked. It could be something as little as a bad wire or crossed connections, or a bad battery. By the way ... Optima are not what they used to be. If you replace the batteries, Odyssey AGM Extremes will get you way better performance.
From the descriptions given by ofmountainsandbeaches you can tell that he probably has some fundamental things wrong with his electrical system.
- Connecting different batteries in parallel is OK, but generally not ideal due to potential over/under charging issues when not properly handled.
- Connecting flooded (his starter battery is most likely a regular flooded cell battery since he didn't mention it was not) and AGM batteries in parallel are not a good idea.
- His solar power system is not capable of properly charging his battery bank.

For the first point: if you connect 2 batteries of the same type (flooded/AGM/gel) but differently sized in parallel, over time the batteries will die if they are not properly and fully charged all the time.
Second point: Flooded cell (your regular lead acid starter battery) and AGM (Optima Yellow Top) have different charging curves and characteristics, charging them in parallel from one source will kill one of the batteries over time (AGM can't handle the flooded charging voltage, flooded has some issues with the AGM charging as well I think).
Third point: In this case I think the solar system might be able to provide just enough power to keep the Blue Sea ACR connected but not enough to charge the system thus also having the starter battery drained. When using solar, make sure the ACR is disconnected and your starter battery should stay charged

Also as a rule of thumb: If your car didn't come with an AGM battery from the manufacturer, the alternator probably is not capable of properly charging AGM batteries.
I would recommend replacing the dead batteries for new ones (you might be able to revive them, but if it requires buying equipment and spending money, the batteries probably won't get their old capacity back) and changing the Blue Sea ACR for a DC-DC charger like the Ctek D250S (with smartpass if you want to be able to jump start using the house battery) already mentioned in this topic.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
- Connecting different batteries in parallel is OK, but generally not ideal due to potential over/under charging issues when not properly handled.

We're talking about automotive here. The voltage regulator pushes the bus voltage to a set point and the batteries absorb what they can at that voltage. Constant voltage charging. You can parallel any combination you want in that situation.

The only potential issue is if the voltage regulator's set point is too high (for gel type batteries, many voltage regulators are set too high) or too low (some voltage regulators are set too low for some types of agm...like Odyssey TPPL or Optima spiral wound).

Different types, sizes, ages etc., which is important for a full time bank, is irrelevant in this situation.

- Connecting flooded (his starter battery is most likely a regular flooded cell battery since he didn't mention it was not) and AGM batteries in parallel are not a good idea.

Again, irrelevant in this situation.


- His solar power system is not capable of properly charging his battery bank.

A) It's only a bank when the voltage rises high enough to trip the solenoid and tie the batteries. Normally, in that situation, the engine battery would already be 99.99% charged, and the house battery would have bulked to 80% or more. So...

B) His solar is certainly capable of fully charging his battery/bank.

Whether it bulks/absorbs at high enough voltage to get it done in a timely fashion is another issue.


For the first point: if you connect 2 batteries of the same type (flooded/AGM/gel) but differently sized in parallel, over time the batteries will die if they are not properly and fully charged all the time.

All batteries will die if not properly and fully charged.

You are applying the rules for a full time bank to a part time "while charging only" bank.

Apples and oranges.


Second point: Flooded cell (your regular lead acid starter battery) and AGM (Optima Yellow Top) have different charging curves and characteristics,

Again, irrelevant. Unless there is some sort of programmable computer controlled voltage regolator in this guy's Delica, it doesn't do charging profiles anyway. It's just a dumb constant voltage charging system.


charging them in parallel from one source will kill one of the batteries over time (AGM can't handle the flooded charging voltage, flooded has some issues with the AGM charging as well I think).

Nah. First of all, again it's just a constant voltage charger with no idea what kind of battery is hooked up to it.

Second, "charging voltage" is not a precise thing. It's just a chemistry experiment in a plastic box. Get it up to a high enough voltage to overcome the resistance and hold it there long enough, and the chemistry will absorb all the electrons it can.

The goal is to go as high as possible without overheating the experiment. No charging system that doesn't have temperature compensation can ever really hit the precisely correct "charging voltage".

Third, except for a few oddballs, agms and floodeds all use pretty much the same charge profiles.


Third point: In this case I think the solar system might be able to provide just enough power to keep the Blue Sea ACR connected but not enough to charge the system thus also having the starter battery drained.

Um. Unlikely for a couple reasons. 150w, even flat mount with a PWM controller on a cloudy day should be putting out 5a. Pretty sure the ACR only draws an amp or so.

More importantly, the ACR won't tie the batteries until the house battery reaches 13.2v. With the cranking battery resting at 12.8, and the house battery at 13.2, even once they are tied, the house battery is not going to drain the engine battery.


When using solar, make sure the ACR is disconnected and your starter battery should stay charged.

That should not be necessary if the ACR is working properly (it's a Blue Sea...has anyone ever heard of a Blue Sea ACR failing?) and if the batteries are not fried (his batteries are fried).


Also as a rule of thumb: If your car didn't come with an AGM battery from the manufacturer, the alternator probably is not capable of properly charging AGM batteries.

That just depends on what the voltage regulator is set to.

My 40 y.o. Ford campervan holds 14.5v at any RPM above idle. Since it doesn't have temperature compensation, and I spend a lot of time in the desert, I'm quite certain this thing could potentially cook any 12v battery on the market today.

Fortunately, I don't fly my van in "unusual attitudes", so I don't need sealed batteries and can monitor the water levels.

My 67 VW Bug with a generator also had a voltage regulator set to 14.5v.

Diplostrat said something about Yotas being known for having 13.9v regulators? I have no idea, but it wouldn't surprise me. Of course, 13.9v is not too low for an agm...it's just too low period.


I would recommend replacing the dead batteries for new ones

Absolutely. Using that blown yellow top for a cranking battery is just a bad idea on general principles.

And the blue top was dodgy to begin with. Sitting around at 12.3v (<75% charged) for who knows how long, it was beyond any doubt somewhat sulphated when he bought it.

And is anyone sure they sold him the deep cycle blue top and not the cranking version?


(you might be able to revive them, but if it requires buying equipment and spending money, the batteries probably won't get their old capacity back) and changing the Blue Sea ACR for a DC-DC charger like the Ctek D250S (with smartpass if you want to be able to jump start using the house battery) already mentioned in this topic.

I like the Ctek 250. But really, I think he's fine with what he's got if he just gets it working properly with a decent set of batteries. AND doesn't abuse the batteries to death. :)
 
Last edited:

Doctor W

Adventurer
I saw this thread and it reminds me of what's happening to my set up.........her's the email I sent to Optima today, now waiting for a reply.

EMAIL TO INFO@OPTIMA.COM

Hi I bought two (2) New Blue Top D34M (Deep Cycle Maine 55 A/H) back in end of April 2014 and one was used was as a separated auxiliary for running an Engel 40 litre fridge/freezer 24/7 (draws approx 2.2 A while running, runs 35/40 mins per hour) and occasional running a laptop via charger) it's recharged by a 138 A max alternator averaging 40 A @ idle (700rpm) and charging at a max. of 14.4V in my ZJ Jeep and a 150 W / approx 6 A . in full sun Solar Panel mat. It's in my Jeep as I'm overlanding in far North tropical Australia.

When stationary in a camp for a few days say, I've always recharged by the time it gets to 12.0V as say, after a night's running of the fridge and the solar basically runs the fridge during the day, but I have now noticed it has just started to not hold a charge very well. For example I've replaced it in the Auxiliary box with a new one but if I recharge with the Solar panel within a couple of hours it stops accepting charge (measured at 13.8 - 14.4V) after disconnected it's 13.9V, but within an hour it drops to 12.6V. I've recharged it on a charger with an AGM setting and it automatically desulphates for about 3 hours and then left on overnight shows as being fully charged and on "maintenance charge (13.6V) in morning. by about 8 hours not connected to anything it shows as being only 12.45V.

The above in most wet batteries would indicate the battery is near end of useful/dependable life, but I've had Yellow tops that have lasted for years longer. Three that are in my Series 2A Land Rover only used occasionally but checked and recharged regularly have lasted since 1998!!! I've got another D34M under hood in the Jeep that was bought at the same time and used for mostly engine start and run duties and it has only use of interior lights for a few minutes per day and the sound system occasionally has no problems.

I know it's out of warranty but I would really appreciate your advice...... can it come good, or is the prognosis terminal?....and what could have caused it? (so I can prevent this happening again.


Many thanks,
 
Last edited:

Doctor W

Adventurer
I saw this thread and it reminds me of what's happening to my set up.........her's the email I sent to Optima today, now waiting for a reply.

EMAIL TO INFO@OPTIMA.COM

Hi I bought two (2) New Blue Top D34M (Deep Cycle Maine 55 A/H) back in end of April 2014 and one was used was as a separated auxiliary for running an Engel 40 litre fridge/freezer 24/7 (draws approx 2.2 A while running, runs 35/40 mins per hour) and occasional running a laptop via charger) it's recharged by a 138 A max alternator averaging 40 A @ idle (700rpm) and charging at a max. of 14.4V in my ZJ Jeep and a 150 W / approx 6 A . in full sun Solar Panel mat. It's in my Jeep as I'm overlanding in far North tropical Australia.

When stationary in a camp for a few days say, I've always recharged by the time it gets to 12.0V as say, after a night's running of the fridge and the solar basically runs the fridge during the day, but I have now noticed it has just started to not hold a charge very well. For example I've replaced it in the Auxiliary box with a new one but if I recharge with the Solar panel within a couple of hours it stops accepting charge (measured at 13.8V) after disconnected it's 13.9V, but within an hour it drops to 12.6V. I've recharged it on a charger with an AGM setting and it automatically desulphates for about 3 hours and then left on overnight shows as being fully charged and on "maintenance charge (13.6V) in morning. by about 8 hours not connected to anything it shows as being only 12.45V.

The above in most wet batteries would indicate the battery is near end of useful/dependable life, but I've had Yellow tops that have lasted for years longer. Three that are in my Series 2A Land Rover only used occasionally but checked and recharged regularly have lasted since 1998!!! I've got another D34M under hood in the Jeep that was bought at the same time and used for mostly engine start and run duties and it has only use of interior lights for a few minutes per day and the sound system occasionally has no problems.

I know it's out of warranty but I would really appreciate your advice...... can it come good, or is the prognosis terminal?....and what could have caused it? (so I can prevent this happening again.


Many thanks,



Here is the pretty prompt reply :


I am sorry to hear about the issue you are having with your battery. Typically when we see issues of a battery not maintaining a charge it is due to sulfation. If your battery is not sulfated it could be a soft short.

Thank you,
Mary Jo
Optima Customer Service


My reply to this very brief reply with its "absolutely warming to the cockles of my heart" expression of sorrow was:

Thanks for the reply,

So should I run a few more desulphation cycles???? or is this contraindicated or counterproductive or even damaging???? What on earth is a "soft short"?????

Many thanks,


I did Google "soft short" in batteries, all batteries as well as AGM, Optimas ,SLA and flooded without becoming any wiser.

I'll keep you people informed in order to increase our great shared knowledge pool on this site.
 

vanhack

New member
Doctor W I have the same issue. Except my optima settled at 12.5V...CTEK charger does not go into de-sulphate mode. I have been told to desulphate too by the same person in the email you got from optima...but cant as charger does not think it is sulphated.

Sent from my LG-H818 using Tapatalk
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Soft short...

Sulfation is something like rust. Only it's made out of lead and sulfur molecules binding together into lead sulfate rather than iron and oxygen molecules binding together into iron oxide.

It is similar to rust in that the lead plates lose molecules and become corroded or "eaten away".

A soft short happens when enough lead sulfate builds up to create a bridge between plates. This is different than a hard short, which happens when plates overheat and warp and come into physical contact. Hard shorts are rare with AGMs (Optimas are AGMs) because of the fiberglass fabric sandwiched between the plates.



Desulfators work by sending high frequency pulses into the battery to vibrate the plates and break loose the sulfation. In a flooded battery, the resulting crap sinks to the bottom, and if there is enough crap laying on the bottom it can cause a soft short. Not really sure where the crap goes when desulfating an AGM...

I bought a Stanley 15a battery charger at Lowe's for 30 bucks just so I could play with the desulfation feature. Tested it on an old worn out battery and it did actually recover the battery...a bit anyway. Not much, but that battery was very far gone.

With that charger, you just push the desufate button and it goes into desulfate mode for 24 hours. Desulfation is slow. With chargers such as the BatteryMINDer (not Tender), which does desulfation constantly, it might take a month or more of non-stop desulfation to notice any improvement.

I started seeing improvement after about a week of non-stop desulfation, and it stopped improving after a few weeks.

The company that makes the Stanley charger also markets the exact same charger with the Black & Decker name glued on.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,910
Messages
2,879,495
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top