Jeep WK CRD Overland Nomad Expedition Build: Lolita

Kosmo

Adventurer
Been working on my Jeep for 17 months now. Part of that is getting used to it, seeing what it feels like stock, trying a few different combinations, and finally making the decisions to put the gear on it. Names it Lolita for no other reason than cars are feminine in French, so gave it a girl's name.

With these vehicles, as with most USA SUVs, payload quickly becomes an issue, especially when we will be towing a trailer with approximately 600 lb tongue weight. There will be some decoupling and the ability to shuffle weight accordingly, but weight is always in calculations. That being said reliability, and durability come first in the trade off.

We will be a family of four travelling around the Americas, selling our house, schooling our kids, and visiting as much of the outback off the beaten track as possible. The trailer will not always be with us, but will be our main living space getting from state to state.

Will add more to this later.

The Jeep itself was purchased after a fairly long research, and realizing I could not reasonably get a Landcruiser Diesel in North America.

Jeep was purchased more or less stock form a guy who was second owner. He loved it, and made it more of a street machine daily driver, but I knew she had other things deep inside her.

When purchased Lolita had 275/55/18s and Bilstein lowered suspension. Already had the green Diesel Tune with the DPF delete, which created some of my first issues. More on that later.

Will ads a few photos here to show the progression, and then add posts for the major milestones in the build and maintenance.

Few free to ask questions, PM, or on this thread.

Thanks in advance, and enjoy.
 

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Kosmo

Adventurer
Suspension Upgrade

First Real Modification was to remove the Bilstein suspension, which handled great, and add OME HD which Nick Kolak helped me out with. I went with the HD all the way around, and it may prove to the the right setup for Expedition; however for now it is still pretty hard n' heavy in the front for the WK.

You can see the old Bilstein suspension.

IMG_9225.jpg

The poise and height of the Jeep before and after.
Lolita Profile MINI.jpgProfile post tires.jpg


An error I made was buying spacers, then buying the Moabs and mounting the new 235s, and then selling the Orbiteks without really thinking through the whole thing. Moabs do not fit on a WK without spacers! Problem is the Moabs from the JK do not have the right offset, or backspacing (I still am not 100% clear on this) to clear the large front WK callipers. In retrospect, I would have been better off to go with stock 17" wheels and new tires.

Since I am going with a narrow Cooper Discoverer A/TW tire, LT 235/80R17 (exhaustive research and fit for purpose) there was no need for spacers, which before I started the whole tire size research program I assumed I would need along with wide tires.

IMG_9173.jpg

The new 235s are 1.5 inches larger diameter, or 0.75 inches increased radius.
1 7_16th.jpg

Good source for wide vs skinny tire, elongation discussion:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/research/white_papers/tire_selection_rev1.html

Also a discussion on this Forum:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-72327.html

Bit more tech tire patch stuff:
http://www.performancesimulations.c...etermined-mostly-by-weight-and-tire-pressure/

I did not need the spacer for tire clearance. They have a Load Range E rating, and also the Winter snow flake in case I am in Provinces or states where it is required by law. The plan is not to be anywhere near snow, but at the time I purchased the truck was located in a province requiring Winter Snowflake from December to April. The compound is a little softer than Cooper's regular A/T which was highly rated on this sites comparison test, but still rated for 80'000 kms or 50'000 miles.


Also I have my doubts as to the added value of spacers, other than to fit wide tires on a vehicle. The idea that they make for a wider more stable stance may make sense on solid axles, but thinking of the extra leverage on the front IFS (Independent Front Suspension) and the wheel bearing makes me think no spacer is better.

I bought the Moabs, painted them with self etching primer, about 6 coats of gunmetal grey and a clear coat top coat. Turned out beautifully. I will likely eventually change them to beadlocks, or Steel wheels. I am even thinking of contacting the guy who bought my Orbiteks and ask him to trade back, but I paid too much for the spacers. Lesson learned. Added weight as well.

I tried to organize the photos to make sense and will adjust if they are out of order.

The last photo off-road testing was returning back down the mountain of sheer rock, stepped rock with no ability to turn back with my wife and son in the car. We have access to a 450 acre testing ground which we also use for off beaten path camping.

2007 Jeep WK.jpg
No photos were taken going up, because going up was concerning. Also I should have done the rear pinch weld before testing as the suspension articulation put a little slice in one of my rear tires. Lesson Learned.
 

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Last edited:

paroxysym

Adventurer
235/70s or 235/80s? I feel like for a 30" on an OME kit they fill those wheel wells out too good. I love the narrow tire look though
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
Preventative Maintenance: WK Rusting Fuel Tank

The next major piece of work tackled was the issue that WKs have, especially in northern climates where salt is used of the metal fuel tank corroding.

Fuel Tank 13 Driver's rear wheel tank corner.jpg

The tank is held in place by the armour. The armour, and tank bracket are a one piece affair bolting directly up into the floor of the WK holding the tank in place and protecting it as you slide over rocks.

I emphasize the once piece aspect because the space between the tank and the carrier is only a few mm. Maybe 5 mm. Sand, mud, salt, and all sorts of road corruption sit on the back corner of the tank and cause early corrosion. There are rubber pads on the inside of the carrier that keep the tank off the steel carrier frame to prevent rubbing.
Fuel Tank 15 Driver's rear wheel tank guard corner.jpg



I found out about this issue from Jeep Forum, and inspected mine. I am glad I did otherwise it would likely have rusted though by now. Lolita started her life in Yellowknife North West Territories where it is too cold in the winter to use salt. This was fine for a couple years, but then she was moved to warmer parts with bad winters where salt is heavily used. You can see the original holes which were bored out to at least twice the size, hoping to create more drainage, and of course lighten the Jeep. :)
Fuel Tank 5 Bolt pattern.jpg


You can see the thread here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/rusted-out-crd-tank-3106977/index2.html

My post with PDF about the fix is #29.
 

jeepgc

Adventurer
Great to see another WK build thread, looking good Kosmo.

Forgot to mention, that's going to be a fantastic trip and something I hope to do one day.

Good luck with the preparation and trip, look forward to reading about it.
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
Great to see another WK build thread, looking good Kosmo.

Forgot to mention, that's going to be a fantastic trip and something I hope to do one day.

Good luck with the preparation and trip, look forward to reading about it.

Thanks a lot. Trip plans are pretty rough at this point, but Moab, Southern Idaho, Oregon, and points further south are in the plans. Eventually heading south of US, but for now we are dealing with the launch period.
 

paroxysym

Adventurer
Also I have my doubts as to the added value of spacers, other than to fit wide tires on a vehicle. The idea that they make for a wider more stable stance may make sense on solid axles, but thinking of the extra leverage on the front IFS (Independent Front Suspension) and the wheel bearing makes me think no spacer is better.

in the 5 years I have owned my WK I have ran 1", 1.25" and 1.5" spacers and 1/4" spacers. which ones have I always come back to? the 1/4" for the reason above and the added peace of mind knowing I am using the OEM studs rather than a spacer attached to the OEM studs and then attaching the wheel to the spacer studs. I too also run moabs on my 07 and the 1/4" gives you JUST enough room between the rim and the caliper, where theres NO rubbing at all. ive ran these 1/4" spacers the entire 5 years I have owned my jeep, I somehow always come back to them.... I like the wider stance, but then I like the idea of having my tires within the fenders. just some food for thought if you would like to move the tires back inside the fenders and gain some peace of mind by removing the huge spacer.

thanks for the 235/80 pics, that's actually the next size tire im planning on running.
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
in the 5 years I have owned my WK I have ran 1", 1.25" and 1.5" spacers and 1/4" spacers. which ones have I always come back to? the 1/4" for the reason above and the added peace of mind knowing I am using the OEM studs rather than a spacer attached to the OEM studs and then attaching the wheel to the spacer studs. I too also run moabs on my 07 and the 1/4" gives you JUST enough room between the rim and the caliper, where theres NO rubbing at all. ive ran these 1/4" spacers the entire 5 years I have owned my jeep, I somehow always come back to them.... I like the wider stance, but then I like the idea of having my tires within the fenders. just some food for thought if you would like to move the tires back inside the fenders and gain some peace of mind by removing the huge spacer.

thanks for the 235/80 pics, that's actually the next size tire im planning on running.

I am currently running the Moabs with a calliper bracket shave and have no issues. I have recently purchased steel wheels, and will go back to steel assuming everything matches up. I like the idea of being able to bang a bent rim back into place with a BFH. Can not do that with aluminum alloy.
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
Update. Rear Storage, Electrical Dual battery setup, design

Currently working on my dual battery setup, rear storage, and rear electrical system. Purchased a Bluesea 12 fuse panel for the rear storage area. Pulled my alternator to have it rebuilt. WK alternators tend to need brushes at 180'000 kms, so I figured I would get ahead of the game.


I posted some info in a thread asking for build feedback, but perhaps WK guys will have the best feedback here.

Expedition: Long term travel of the Americas. Approximately 3 years
Equip: SUV and Trailer
Tow Vehicle: 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel
Trailer, Current: Kodiak 214 Hybrid
Plan: Move from location to location, set up trailer, and go on day trips exploring surrounding areas
Rear Drawer Requirement:

Store necessary tools and equipment while towing trailer, and while off-road without trailer
Lockbox for electronics tools, more expensive equipment
Refrigerator for day trips
Second battery system with fusing, breakers etc
Air compressor (and tank?)
Slide out table top?


Feedback from more experienced overlanders and what they liked, missed, added, felt was necessary

Payload is an issue with the tow vehicle, so with trailer connected and tongue weight the rear storage area needs to be light weight while towing.

Here is a mockup of the basic idea. I am considering using a Wabasto Isotherme as a slide-out fridge if we decide a fridge is really necessary equipment. My idea is to make one drawer large enough to slide in an Isotherme Cruise 36 if we decide later this is a necessity.

N.B. There is a Travall Bolt in Pet Guard that separates the rear storage section from rear seats.

Click image for larger version.

DSC_1513.jpg
A lot of people make 7" high drawers, but I would be going with 10" high frame for the drawer, which would allow a Wabasto unit to slide right in.

In the photo it shows space on the left for a AGM battery (It may be mounted under the floor and not in the cab. Inverter for 110 volt, fuse panel, breaker, possibly air tank, and other permanent items.

Red box on top is locking tool drawer, meant more for electronics and higher value items that can be kept locked when rear lift gate is open without concern. Fridge can be seen on the right. This is a cheap one we picked up this summer to experiment with and see if we actually need/want a fridge with us all the time.

DSC_1516.jpg

Feedback request

Looking for any feedback or ideas based on experience. I am located in Canada, so can be harder to get certain equipment and parts; however I do travel to the states for work, and can order online and pick things up on trips.

Thanks in advance.
 

Comanche Scott

Expedition Leader
I'm a big fan of the G.C., and am enjoying your build. :drool:

Do you need the rear seat for passengers? If not, that's a whole lot of storage area you can gain down low.
I'm not sure how the WK rear seats work, but on the WJ there is an easy mod to make the rear seat very easy to remove.
If it's similar on the WK, you could always pop out the rear seat, and put it in the trailer when you go off to explore.

If the platform was built to utilize the seats removed, you'd have an excellent sleeping platform, with plenty of storage underneath.
I used aluminum 10ga sheet to build the platform in the Wrangler. No worries about moisture/vibration damaging it this way, and it saved a substantial amount of weight.
It's designed to work with or with out the rear seats.
There is a huge fridge in this Jeep (65qt monster). Bought for the dual zone capabilities, because a day without ice cream is like a day without sunshine. Other than it's large enough to feed two teenage boys for at least a full day (or a normal couple for a month ;)), I find the fridge extremely useful. Engel makes a smaller version that is dual zone.
http://www.portablefridgesonline.com.au/blog/engel-mt45fcp-combi-digital-series-review/
Hope this is helpful :beer:
 

Kosmo

Adventurer
Thanks:

Any photos of your setup? Feel free to post on this thread if you like. Rear seats need to stay as we will be travelling with two kids. I am considering converting to bucket seats, but that is about it.

We will be towing a hybrid trailer, use that as a base, and then do extended trips from there exploring areas. No sleeping platform in the WK.

I'm a big fan of the G.C., and am enjoying your build. :drool:

Do you need the rear seat for passengers? If not, that's a whole lot of storage area you can gain down low.
I'm not sure how the WK rear seats work, but on the WJ there is an easy mod to make the rear seat very easy to remove.
If it's similar on the WK, you could always pop out the rear seat, and put it in the trailer when you go off to explore. Engel makes a smaller version that is dual zone.
http://www.portablefridgesonline.com.au/blog/engel-mt45fcp-combi-digital-series-review/
Hope this is helpful :beer:
 

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