Need Advice on Equipment

[PJorgen]

I was in the Tahoe Truckee area this weekend dong some easy trail driving and came upon a tree recently fallen across the trail. It wasn't a large tree, one of those birch or aspen things and I could have easily dragged it off the trail with the truck if I'd had the right equipment, but I didn't. Ended up getting out the bow saw and cutting it up.

So, what is the right equipment for moving a fallen tree? I have neither the space nor desire to carry a chain saw; if the tree is too big to drag out of the way, I'll turn around. I assume a kinetic recovery strap is not appropriate for this use, correct? Is a simple tow strap adequate? If so, what capacity should I look for? I've seen a few (at Harbor Freight for example) that have metal hooks sewn onto both ends. is this a good thing or not?

Would chain be a better option? I'd rather avoid chain due to the weight.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

 

[rayra]

The small ones with the hooks don't have anywhere near the capacity you might need. Only rated around 2000# pounds. But I have seen it done with a rope that was nowhere near that rating. The person looped the rope over the wide end of the pine tree, tied on to a branch on the bottom side so that when he pulled it the tree basically rolled, instead of being a dead drag. Like a winch drum. He did it twice and cleared enough of the road to open it up for one-way traffic.
But it was something like the top half of a tree, no roots.
If it's a roadside tree that's completely toppled, you'd do better to drag to cut the tip end. Rotate the thing around its center of mass until there's road clearance.

If you've never cleared a whole tree before, be damned careful cutting any branches or portion that is keeping the mass from falling further or rotating towards you. Typically better to limb it and work it down in small sections, stay away from just trying to cut it in the middle.

Get the biggest tow strap you can afford. Saving $5-$25 won't help when you really need it.

 

[AFBronco235]

The limbs have a tendency to create a lot of drag too. Keep that bow-saw handy since you can cut up the tree into smaller portions that you can handle.

As far as a strap goes, same rules apply. Get one rated for MUCH higher than you think you need. Use a tree saver strap around the tree, that is also rated higher than your estimate, rig it to the recovery strap using a screw in or bolt in shackle and another shackle to the tow vehicle. Again, make sure strength ratings exceed what you're estimating the tow weight to be. And if you think that the tree might weigh more than you setup can handle but going around isn't a viable option, break out the bow saw and carefully section the tree as needed.

There are an almost infinite number of ways to rig for pulling a tree. It just depends on the actual situation and since every situation is different, you'll just have to use your best judgement.

 

[rayra]

Going around is best. Over works too.

If you absolutely have to move a tree, it's all about rigging the pull properly. If you have the space, carry a 20 foot hardened chain that has a far greater capacity than your truck. Usually tow truck suppliers have them. Then, don't use a winch or anything on the front of your truck. You can "tow" it using a frame mounted tow point, but make sure you are rigging it to just move one end, scooting it out of the way. It's hard to explain proper rigging. best idea ... look up "4x4 recovery fail" on You tube and then don't do anything those idiots do. lol Trees weigh a lot more than most trucks (including your 2500) can pull.

That's just it exactly. That's all you need to do, rather than turn it into a tractor pull contest / frame bender. OP, read up on physics, angular momentum, moment arms and leverage. Make all that **** do the work for you. It's as much about technique as it is equipment.

 

[LR Max]

Depends.

I recently ran into a downed tree. Not massive but it was blocking the trail and it had a couple big limbs off the side. So I hooked up my logging chain and dragged up the trail a touch and off to one side. Problem solved.

20151121_133817 by Max Thomason, on Flickr

Then again, this was an easy one. It was fully rotted/disconnected at both ends. So it moved fairly easily with the 4Runner. Chain is good for this kind of thing because the forces involved aren't too ridiculous (vs. a vehicle recovery) and its durable. So getting dragged isn't a problem.

Other times I've used a saw/axe to cut one end then drag it backwards. I bought a super cheapo "tree" strap from harbor freight. I wouldn't use it for winching, but would be good for dragging trees or other crap if I didn't have my chain (which is heavy and I don't carry it often).

 

[Tazman]

Great question and comments. I have been debating carrying my small chainsaw, gas, oil, etc. vs. a come along, snatch block, small ax and some rigged cable. I haven't figured the direction yet but the small chainsaw is sure nice when you need it. I have been stuck without either which it the worst of both worlds.

 

[2drx4]

Great question and comments. I have been debating carrying my small chainsaw, gas, oil, etc. vs. a come along, snatch block, small ax and some rigged cable. I haven't figured the direction yet but the small chainsaw is sure nice when you need it. I have been stuck without either which it the worst of both worlds.

At least carry a good bow saw. They are not expensive, don't weigh much at all, and you can cut through reasonable size trees with them if you need to. They're just slow, and might leave your arms a little sore.

It's also helpful if you're trying to move a tree in you can cut a relief in it to break it. As usual, use caution when doing something like that.

 

[Deleted member 96197]

Most the advice here is all in the same vein as what i have to say, but having encountered this a lot, I generally try to clear the trail for whoever comes next and might be less prepared, and i don't like going around if i can avoid it because as a good steward of our resources I don't want to encourage the constant widening of our trails.
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The comments above are totally on point, you should be traveling with a tow strap rated a couple times higher than the weight of your truck, I have not yet (luckily) come across a downed tree that I can't hook up from one side and pull parallel with the trail. The key is (as stated above) making sure you are considering the physics, work smarter not harder. Should you run in to something truly huge, it might be time to find a good way to go around, but if you do, try to be responsible about it, pick something easy for others to follow so it reduces the likelihood of trail destruction. If you want to invest in some good tools, I've never regretted a quality tool that I have added to my kit, but that being said a tool is only as good at your ability to use it, so if you have to ask, you might be better off volunteering with a local trail cleanup day and learning some tried and true methods for taking care of the trails.

 

[Inyo_man]

As others have stated...

If you would simply like to drag a smallish tree out of/down the trail, get yourself a length of 3/8'' welded link chain with grab hooks at each end- "drag chain".

Mine gets a lot of use in the winter... it's heavy, but worth every ounce when needed.