Do it yourself, with the correct material...
http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...vid=4287921828+4288233984&searchterm=UHMW+Rod
... less than $30.00 for a 2.5" Round x 36" Long UHMW Plastic Rod [to my door].
Do not purchase the 24" section, as you will not end up with 2" Tall Body Lift Blocks; this lift procedure requires 12 each for LWB Monteros [yes, saws do consume material in the process].
It is best to have access to a bandsaw & drill press; much cleaner & precise.
The actual body bolts found on Gen 2 & Gen 2.5 Monteros are: M10 - 1.25 x 90mm 8.8 Flange Head.
M10 = 10mm Bolt Diameter [equals SAE 7/16" Diameter].
1.25 = Pitch [thread count], from one thread to the next... it is a fine [not course] thread.
90mm = Bolt Length [equals 3.54"], as measured from underneath the head to the end of the shaft].
8.8 = Tensile / Yield Strength [metric]... commonly considered to be equal to an SAE Grade 5 Bolt.
If staying metric, one should only consider a bolt with a 10.9 Tensile/ Yield Strength [M10 - 1.25 x 140mm [equals 5.51"]].
Least expensive I found/ purchased was a lot of 12 @ $81.00 gross [$6.75 each].
Not cheap by any means, but I just wanted to keep it all metric AND keep the Flange Head design [not liking the idea of separate bolts/ washers].
If converting to SAE bolts, one should only consider Grade 8.
Lastly, I did/ would not consider using Stainless Steel 316 Bolts/ Nuts, even though this vehicle will be in an extreme saltwater [oceanfront] / extreme humidity [80% - 100% daily, not uncommon] environment.
There is no SS Bolt that will ever have the Tensile/ Yield Strength of a Grade 8 or 10.9 Metric Bolt - in a similar dimension [for simplicity, assume that a SS Bolt will have about 50% of the strength of a Grade 8 Bolt].
Lifting the body demands stronger bolts [more tensile/ shear demands].
Coating the bolts & nuts with 'Por-15' will more than suffice for preventing rusting issues.