Just another trailer build

[bluebear]

Long time listener, first time caller.

I've been imagining all sorts of off road capable camping trailers. I was going to go the tent trailer route, but the weight, size and quality of most trailers put me off that idea. Also, it would be nice to have something to use as a general utility trailer for stuff around the house. Most of our camping is non serviced, often random camp spots while 4x4ing and exploring. That being said with our 2 year old, a bit of extra convenience and having the trailer 90% packed and ready to go will be a huge help in getting us out there for the odd weekends we're free.

The tow vehicle is a SWB Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8L turbo diesel, so the weight is important to me. Not planning on overbuilding if I can help it. I'd also like to tow it behind a decent car if necessary as family needs change.

This site has been a huge inspiration, and has led me to go on so many tangents I just decided to pull the trigger on a few items and some materials to get started.
First off, I picked up a very well priced contractors canopy. It has glass on 3 sides and a 'tool' shelf on the other. I've used them before, very handy but for camping its amazing.




The 7' box length is a foot longer and wider than I wanted, but I think the added convenience will be worth it. The canopy body is roughly the same width as the body of the pajero.

The frame I will be building to suit the canopy, but I'm also trying to maintain a 58-60" axle width, to closely match my pretty narrow wheel base. This means I need to flare the top of the box 3 or 4 inches per side. Any ideas how to make this clean and easy? Especially for the barn doors... Tires and rims are 33" and will match the truck. This means I may have to figure out some wheel wells and such (again depending on the flair on the box etc. As long as it is the same roof height as the truck with the same clearance underneath, I wont care how I go about it. I have some napkin sketches but I'd rather just wing it and get it done.

Im going to order a 3500lbs axle with 2200 lbs springs. Any thoughts on this load rating for a utility trailer? Typical car camping gear loaded with 40L of diesel and 40L of water, small propane tank, I will go lighter springs with shocks if it helps. Like I said, its my first build I'm just waiting to get some materials and mock up the frame before I decide on the final axle width. They're custom built regardless so it can wait. They will have 6 bolt hubs to match the truck, no brakes for now.


Now for some of your input. Do people really use and appreciate a slide out kitchen stove and sink? I've been car camping my whole life and can't see the value other than making the wife happy (even though I cook the most) and maybe bragging rights... Is it worth the added time/money/sliders/plumbing to get it going? It would be cool and turn heads, but is it worth it? I was thinking maybe a couple stow-away tables and mounting hitches, but other than that, a folding table at costco is only 50 bucks... \

Anyways, off to the wholesaler to pick up my steel.. 2x2 1/8 wall for the frame, 2x2 1/4 wall for the tongue. 1x1x1/8 for side supports, 1x1.5 for corner up tubes and top perimeter ledge.
Is this overkill? Also going to use maybe 16-18 gauge aluminum checkerplate for the skin/floor bent to fit. Reasonable?

Input is appreciated!

 

[stomperxj]

Im going to order a 3500lbs axle with 2200 lbs springs.

Do people really use and appreciate a slide out kitchen stove and sink?

Anyways, off to the wholesaler to pick up my steel.. 2x2 1/8 wall for the frame, 2x2 1/4 wall for the tongue. 1x1x1/8 for side supports, 1x1.5 for corner up tubes and top perimeter ledge.
Is this overkill? Also going to use maybe 16-18 gauge aluminum checkerplate for the skin/floor bent to fit. Reasonable?

Input is appreciated!

Hubs and springs should be fine. 2200lb springs may end up being a little too heavy but you'll just have to see after its loaded. Don't forget to put shocks on too.

All of your steel choices are totally fine. Pretty standard sizes for trailers like this.

Slide out kitchens are worth it in my opinion. Yes they have some "turn heads" factor but having everything in one place that you just slide out is far more convenient than setting up everything separately after you unpack everything.

 

[bluebear]

So the canopy will be 3-4 inches wider than the tow vehicle on either side. Im thinking to just build the box section as wide as the vehicle, then just put the canopy on a ledge. Im thinking this will probably help with blindspots while backing up too. Another option would be having the tub tapered like this \___/ but my fab skills are not great.

I bought this canopy basically because of the price and condition. I could always re-sell it and rethink the project, but I'm eager to get this started. Anyone think it is too big?

 

[bluebear]

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[Martyinco]

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Thats where the dream starts :wings:

 

[bluebear]

So a bit of progress was made last weekend. Managed to slowly get the material cut for the frame. This was slow and tedius since I thought my Dewalt compound mitre saw would be a good match. I borrowed a cheap HB saw (or princess auto in Canada) and progress picked up exponentially.

I havent had a chance to weld this much before so each one looked better. I saved the most important for last.
I installed a reciever hitch on the tongue so if I decide I need to upgrade from a ball or pintle I can. Hwy ill use ball. If its going to get rough Ill bring a pintle style.

I might go for a pintle ball combo, as it would suit the four bolt pattern on the tow vehicle the best.







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[bluebear]

Yes I plan to add gussets to the tongue, probably up to the end of the receiver, and will plate the top to have something to add accessories depending on what my tongue weight works out to be.

Im trying my best not to overbuild this, but im mostly guessing. I was going to build my own canopy but this fiberglass one is both handy, cheap and light.

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[bluebear]

Picked up two 1000lbs springs and hardware today, custom 59" axle is ordered to match my wheel base and will take 10 days. Hopefully I'll have time to mock it up tonight, and decide on a final ride height to match the truck. This part I was kind of guessing until I had the springs in hand. Will probably have to go springs over, but we'll see where they sit with 33's, and how high it will end up with the taller barn doors that dictate the height of the box. Think full size pickup.

I have the box design more or less figured out. I plan to prime then paint everything with POR15, then some kind of mild bed liner.

I'm now trying to deciding on what to skin it with. Seeing as I managed to heat distort my tongue slightly, I'm not confident using steel sheet except for maybe the bottom. Also, it will be heavier and more susceptible to rust. On the flip side, the advantage is that if I can be patient and learn to do it right, it will be more weatherproof.

Regardless I think aluminum checkerplate at 14 or 16 guage should work well, the thicker being the floor. I can have them bent to fit for pretty cheap through my work and can bolt or rivet them in place. My biggest question is, what could I use to weatherstrip the seams to keep dust and water out? I don't know anyone that welds aluminum, and this is a budget build so I can't afford shop rates. I've heard of seam sealers for steel, do they work with aluminum as well?

 

[Martyinco]

Seam sealer would work fine for what you are trying to do. This winter I will be taking my trailer skins off and seam sealing all of my joints, I would do it now but I want to get it on the road and camping before the season is over.

 

[bluebear]

Would it work to bond aluminum and steel? In case I do the floor in steel. With aluminum checker plate, should I be concerned with the metal compatibility, I don't really want to rubber insulate every mounting point.

 

[veetee]

To prevent galvanic corrosion it is best to isolate the aluminium from steel at contact areas, it does not need to be expensive, you could use something as simple as gaffer tape.

 

[bluebear]

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[bluebear]

Gaffer tape it is. So does the seam sealer work with aluminum?

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[djaraceandrally]

If you can get it, Tiger seal does work with alloy. UPOL is the manufacture. Just make sure you follow the guide about temps to ensure is sets properly. Its also overpaintable.

 

[bluebear]

If you can get it, Tiger seal does work with alloy. UPOL is the manufacture. Just make sure you follow the guide about temps to ensure is sets properly. Its also overpaintable.

Nice, ill look into it.

Picked up some cheap lights and some odds and ends. I wanted to go LED but for basic recessed tail lights its hard to beat ten bucks a pair. I may just go for a full kit if I can find one I like the look of.

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