GMT-800 lift question: Extended sway bar links?

[Martinjmpr]

Finally putting together my lift and I'm wondering if I need extended sway bar links? This will be a 1.5" - 2.5" leveling/lift kit. And if I need extended links is that front and rear or just front? Anyone have a set they recommend?

If not "needed" is this one of those "good idea to replace as long as you're in there" parts?

Thanks in advance. :ylsmoke:

 

[justcuz]

Yes good to replace. I snapped one of mine at the axle joint. I don't tow a lot and have Hummer H2 rear springs with progressively wound coils, so I just removed my rear sway bar.

I think geronracing may have come up with something, check out his build.

 

[rayra]

I literally just 2hrs ago completed installing that same / similar kit on my Sub. I used new replacement links front and rear. At maximum extension of the suspension there's no apparent limitation or binding. At most I'd suggest working some silicone lube into the sway bar bushings themselves. Or if replacing those bushings too (they're only a couple dollars apiece), it's a good time to apply a bit of synthetic moly grease on their inner face where they contact the bar, which will ensure the bar pivots freely in its brackets.

At full hang, my rear sway bar was still more than an inch away from the rear differential cover. I didn't take a picture at full hang, but this almost was.

I just posted the details of this morning's level/lift finish in my 'Hey Vortec Guys' maintenance topic. The front-end work and earlier front end link replacement is also earlier in that topic -
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ckup-Suburban-Yukon-etc?p=2132192#post2132192

 

[rayra]

Here's two ginormous pics of the install. You can see the basic replacement end link installed and the sway bar position. I didn't really note its position 'before', I suppose it is pivoted up ~10degrees or so from where it was before the spacer was added.

 

[justcuz]

Is that a lube fitting on the bottom of the link? That's were mine broke, I think I articulated the rear axle beyond the joint travel and snapped it.

 

[rayra]

Yes, it is zerk fitting. I don't think that will be a problem with these cheap links, as they only have two short welds on each end of the central rod, instead of being welded all the way around. I expect they'd break there, instead. But I'm not intended to wheel this thing that hard, so I'm not much concerned about it. They were purposefully a 'budget' solution.