Tuktoyaktuk, January 2016

eianray

New member
My adventure buddy and I recently went on an expedition to the Arctic in January of this year. We are both geography majors and wanted to geek out over the long Arctic winter night where there is no direct sunlight for five straight weeks. We were also intrigued by our northern neighbors propensity to construct seasonal ice roads and wanted to know realistic it was to drive to the end of one in the dead of winter. Our trip was relatively short, only 10 days, but in that time we traveled 6,500 miles across four Canadian provinces/territories and three US States. Due to the harsh climactic conditions extensive logistical planning was involved. Temperatures can drop to -35F, there are no emergency services, undependable fueling stations, poor weather reporting, no cell service, and many of these routes are infrequently patrolled during the winter months. In addition, the roads were compact snow and ice for about 4,000 miles of the trip and daylight was in short supply, requiring us to do a lot of night driving to meet our time deadlines. Our ultimate goal was the community of Tuktoyaktuk, NWT which is at the end of a 120 mile long ice road along the frozen Mackenzie River and Arctic Ocean.

We camped and slept in the car several nights. Let me tell you, camping in the sub zero temperatures is not fun, but at many of our stops it was our only option since we were in the middle of a wintery northern wilderness. We had sleeping bags rated to -50 as well as standard cold weather survival clothing and gear in the event we got stranded and had to be outside the vehicle for an extended period of time. We also had with us a spot tracker so folks back home could track our progress and so that we could signal for help if we had serious mishap. Other than the camping, we relied on Airbnb in Inuvik and Yellowknife where we repacked and got our bearings. Since most of the trip was outside of cell areas, we relied on an iPad with the Avenza app for our mapping needs. Its a very simple, yet robust app that allows a person to upload a georeferenced PDF map of an area of interest. Using the iPads built-in aGPS, it places the iconic blue dot on the map similar to what one would see on the Google Maps app. Essentially it allows you to use the iPads GPS capabilities without cell coverage.

We had a couple sketchy moments due to weather. At one point our clutch fluid began to freeze and had difficulty shifting. The engine had a hard time staying warm one night when the temperature dropped to -35F. Even after many hours of driving it was cool to the touch, which I'm sure was not good for it. The dash lights began to flicker and the power windows ceased to function. Luckily once the temperature warmed a bit, all these problems disappeared. The only geopolitical trouble we had, if you want to call it that, was when we entered Canada at the Sumas, WA border crossing. We were detained for about 30 minutes while our vehicle was searched. Our careful pack job was all pulled out of the vehicle onto the street, our bags of clothing and gear dumped out and rifled through, and we were asked extremely invasive questions about our affinity for firearms, of which we had none. Our exploration vehicle is rather small, and repacking it for the second time on the first day of the trip put a damper on things. I've done a lot of international travelling in my day, and this was the single most invasive interaction with authority I'd been through despite having spent years abroad in the middle east, southeast Asia, Mexico and Venezuela, where such treatment is fairly standard and for which there is no recourse. It definitely made me reconsider my sentiments toward Canada.

Despite that one negative experience at the border, this was one of the greatest trips of my life and I recommend it for anyone who wants to see the great northern latitudes during the winter months. You'll be treated to some of the most beautiful skies, mountains and vistas in North America, traverse an ice road, see the aurora borealis, and experience the privilege of relying on your own judgement and reckoning.

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bigskypylot

Explorer
Wow, sounds like quite the adventure! What bags were you using? I have my Military ECWS and Marmot Bag rated to -40. I have been thinking of trying out a Western Mountaineering bag some day. As for firearms, that seems pretty invasive. No firearms in your possession should have ended the questions with a simple search. Canada's stance on firearms sucks. If i was travelling up there, a pump shotgun would be what I would take along with a .44 wheel gun, but we all know that's a pain in the rear to get that in to Canada (legally). Even a shotgun can be. An AR type rifle ( forget it) . What did you do for fuel? Looking forward to hearing and seeing more of your trip report.

Seth
 

eianray

New member
Wow, sounds like quite the adventure! What bags were you using? I have my Military ECWS and Marmot Bag rated to -40. I have been thinking of trying out a Western Mountaineering bag some day. As for firearms, that seems pretty invasive. No firearms in your possession should have ended the questions with a simple search. Canada's stance on firearms sucks. If i was travelling up there, a pump shotgun would be what I would take along with a .44 wheel gun, but we all know that's a pain in the rear to get that in to Canada (legally). Even a shotgun can be. An AR type rifle ( forget it) . What did you do for fuel? Looking forward to hearing and seeing more of your trip report.

Seth


The bags we had were Blackpine Sports Grizzley bags. We couldn't stomach spending the many hundreds to thousands of dollars on a down mummy-type bag so we simply went with these monsters. They definitely did the trick. They're also incredibly comfortable because they're so thick. The only drawback is they take up a lot of room, and since we were in a small Honda CR-Z space was at a premium. Our bedrolls consisted of the sleeping bag and an inflatable pad inside of a Kelty bivy sack, which was then rolled up and bungee-tied. It worked wonderfully. Our tent, though rated for cold weather, was quite a hassle. Its nearly impossible to set up a tent with aluminum poles when its -20F. Within seconds your hands are numb and you can't feel enough to connect and slide the poles to pop the tent. For anyone who desires a cold weather overland trip I recommend finding a tent that can be set up in under a minute. Any more than that and exposure to the elements starts to hinder one's dexterity.

When we left the vehicle to go inside the building to speak with the immigration/customs officer at the border he asked the following questions, among others:
Do you own any handguns?
How many handguns do you own?
What kinds of handguns do you own? (wanted a list of make and model)
What is their purpose?
When was the last time you used your handgun(s)?
Do you handle them on a daily, weekly, monthly, or annual basis?
Do you have loose firearm components, or only fully assemble firearms?
Do others have access to your firearms?

We just stared at each other with shock and horror. We explained that we were obeying all of Canada's restrictions on firearms, we had none with us, and that we were in compliance with the laws of our own country and that these questions were invasive and irrelevant and we were not comfortable with our answers being recorded in a database, foreign or domestic. He went on with some dribble about how he "just needs to feel comfortable with us before he lets us into the country". We gave him enough information to ease his curiosity so we could get on our way. What I do in my home and in my country is not his jurisdiction by any stretch of the imagination. We plan on taking several more trips into Canadian wilderness (Contwoyto, Trans-Taiga, Trans Labrador) in the next couple years, but going forward, we will not subject ourselves to that game. It's truly offensive, on a base level.
 

unkamonkey

Explorer
Things have changed at the border crossings. 45 years ago we were stopped and my father said he had a .22 pistol in the trailer. Either give it up or ship it home via bus. We shipped it and came back with the paperwork showing it was sent. All was good then and they never searched the truck or trailer.
 

haven

Expedition Leader
Canada is a sovereign country. They make their own rules. If you want to enter, you follow the rules. No big deal.

Crossing a checkpoint in (fill in your favorite 3rd world country) manned by teenagers toting AK47s and who look like they haven't been paid for months -- now that's a whole different level of excitement.
 

Pntyrmvr

Adventurer
We just stared at each other with shock and horror. We explained that we were obeying all of Canada's restrictions on firearms, we had none with us, and that we were in compliance with the laws of our own country and that these questions were invasive and irrelevant and we were not comfortable with our answers being recorded in a database, foreign or domestic. He went on with some dribble about how he "just needs to feel comfortable with us before he lets us into the country". We gave him enough information to ease his curiosity so we could get on our way. What I do in my home and in my country is not his jurisdiction by any stretch of the imagination. We plan on taking several more trips into Canadian wilderness (Contwoyto, Trans-Taiga, Trans Labrador) in the next couple years, but going forward, we will not subject ourselves to that game. It's truly offensive, on a base level.


[personal insult removed] U.S. asks same kind of "dribble" to foreigners every day. Stay home.


"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."
 
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bigskypylot

Explorer
Canada is a sovereign country. They make their own rules. If you want to enter, you follow the rules. No big deal.

Crossing a checkpoint in (fill in your favorite 3rd world country) manned by teenagers toting AK47s and who look like they haven't been paid for months -- now that's a whole different level of excitement.

Indeed they are a sovereign country. They were following the rules. If they were to take a hunting rifle and/or shotgun, you file the correct paperwork and pay the required fees etc. Those ancillary questions were just that and in no way required by the officer. I've done my fair share of border crossings and a lot in private jet aircraft. Canada is pretty easy coming and going with CANPASS but you do get a closer inspection from USCBP on the way back in to the states.
 

eianray

New member
Indeed they are a sovereign country. They were following the rules. If they were to take a hunting rifle and/or shotgun, you file the correct paperwork and pay the required fees etc. Those ancillary questions were just that and in no way required by the officer. I've done my fair share of border crossings and a lot in private jet aircraft. Canada is pretty easy coming and going with CANPASS but you do get a closer inspection from USCBP on the way back in to the states.

My experience with Canada has always been good, until recently. USCBP on the other hand can be a bugger, especially when coming back in from Mexico. I remember the good old days when all one needed was State issued ID and a good attitude to get across the border... hopefully those days return, though probably not for some time.
 

bigskypylot

Explorer
My experience with Canada has always been good, until recently. USCBP on the other hand can be a bugger, especially when coming back in from Mexico. I remember the good old days when all one needed was State issued ID and a good attitude to get across the border... hopefully those days return, though probably not for some time.

Hahaha.. i remember those days too. Flying auto parts in and out of Mexico to Detroit and elsewheres. I always wondered if there was ever anything stuck in places but never had that issue as we had handlers and we did it so much that it was just routine business.
 

Cent

Observer
We just stared at each other with shock and horror. We explained that we were obeying all of Canada's restrictions on firearms, we had none with us, and that we were in compliance with the laws of our own country and that these questions were invasive and irrelevant and we were not comfortable with our answers being recorded in a database, foreign or domestic. He went on with some dribble about how he "just needs to feel comfortable with us before he lets us into the country". We gave him enough information to ease his curiosity so we could get on our way. What I do in my home and in my country is not his jurisdiction by any stretch of the imagination. We plan on taking several more trips into Canadian wilderness (Contwoyto, Trans-Taiga, Trans Labrador) in the next couple years, but going forward, we will not subject ourselves to that game. It's truly offensive, on a base level.

Your trip sounds fun! Looking forward to visit that region of the world once, too!

Can't stay quiet about this:
I am very sorry you didn't like that border crossing, but try to ever enter the U.S. as a citizen of any other country. I am Swiss, so not part of a particularly "high-risk" group, but I had hour-long questionings twice at the U.S. border, including damage to some of my personal belongings due to "search" and newly packing my stuff everytime, of course. Today's world, my friend. The Canadians sound a lot friendlier, according to your experience. Should have appreciated it ;)
 

rgallant

Adventurer
Canada Customs has a lot of issues with US citizens bringing in firearms without doing the paperwork, and then pulling the oh I forget about that loaded whatever customs finds in vehicle. And of course whining about the press and everywhere else when they get charged about how unfair it is.

However it sounds a bit excessive to me, you answered the questions but for some reason he did not believe or did not want to believe you. But that is the nature of border crossings these days, 911 has made our life difficult.
 

Vegas_Nick

Adventurer
Thanks for your post. I am leading a group up to TUK in March of 2017. We'll be among the last to cross the great Ice Road. About 7,000 miles total from Vegas to TUK and back!
 

igorsadventures

Road tripper
What car did you travel in? As far as I understand, there are trucks on the road to Inuvik and Tuk, and it should be passable by most vehicles? I am thinking about driving there in a Sprinter.
 

Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
What car did you travel in? As far as I understand, there are trucks on the road to Inuvik and Tuk, and it should be passable by most vehicles? I am thinking about driving there in a Sprinter.

You could do it in a civic no worries.

Yep, it's a good road, actually better in winter than summer because the snow fills in the pot holes.

Get the best quality ice tires you can get, studded is best.

If it happens to snow a lot, you might get stuck, but that's unlikely, and you can just wait a day or two and someone will come along.

Blowing snow is more a problem, visibility will be zero, so you have to wait it out.

-Dan
 

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