New member w/ 2007 Fuso FG, just installed Ranchos and Timbren bump stops.

skippythedog

Observer
Howdy Y'all!.... New member in Seattle (please let me know if I'm doing this right)...Just bought me a 2007 Jupiter Green Fuso FG140 w/ 59k miles, short (109") wheelbase.
This rig saw very light duty in the area and is equipped w/ a straight steel bed w/ a dump cylinder.
I'm not a rich guy building an adventure camper. I'm a poor guy replacing a Toyota Tundra. After discovering that a new starter or a new water pump for my Tundra runs about $1500 each, I decided I could keep a commercial rig running for that kind of money. I vacillated between a Unimog and an FG and decided on the FG as 95% of my driving will be on road and relatively close to home.
Needless to say, the ride was unbearable so I perused the sites and decided to try the cheap route first.... I installed Rancho 9000 series shocks all around (999117 front and 999113 rear) with a set of new Timbren bump stops up front. I'm very happy with the results. It's made the ride much more tolerable.
I'm running the adjustable Ranchos on click number 2 (of 9) and it provides just enough damping to keep the springs tamed (my truck weighs 8600#). I tried running them at midpoint (too stiff) and at the softest setting, which still let the springs try to catapult you through the roof. The shocks have also reduced the tendency to start an oscillation, though that may just be my imagination as I simply haven't encountered this situation since the new parts were installed. I found only one other instance of the Rancho installation on a 2003. I cross referenced the stock part numbers on the 03 and 07 and deduced that these 2 sets would fit.
I deemed that the front bump stops had the greatest effect on my comfort. The rear sets are twice the price @ about $400.....wonder if anyone deems those worth the expense?

I also tinted all the windows including the windshield with ceramic window film.....made a huge difference in reduction of solar gain...not so much like a greenhouse anymore

I'd like to explore the idea of set of single wheels but the guys at Stockton wheels are not very helpful. Are there specs.drawings (copies of the Aussie wheels) available? Someone suggested having them cut the centers out of my wheels to build off of....Is the expense of single wheels worth it on a road truck....? Expected fuel mileage gain @ 60 mph?

Another thing sorely lacking is interior nooks and storage in the cab. I have mounted single stud RAM mount balls on all of my grab handle screws to mount GPS, Phone, drink holders etc. Another idea I have is to mount an aluminum bar between the grab handles, about 3" above the dash (the full width of the cab) to mount some goodies, maybe even build a nice console on that.....Sure would be nice if someone built an overhead console...seems like there is plenty of room for that.

The ultimate goal is to simply make the truck as versatile as possible. So, with the dump cylinder and flat deck, I am adding a set of stakes and bows to the short, wood sides so I can run a custom made tarp/canopy (like an army truck). The bows will be strong and incorporate a few sets of pins that can be dropped in to help secure a canoe, pipe, lumber etc (with the tarp off)...A small, galvanized 2000lb capacity hand winch crane will be mounted in the rear corner. A 24x24 tool box will be installed on the frame and I will either install a wide, truck tool box on the front of the headache rack a few feet off the deck or simply chain down a jobsite style tool box so that I can relocate it to the rear when the camper is sitting on the deck.*

*I do have a Gichner S-280 military shelter that will sit nicely on the deck as it's a few inches narrower than my 82" wide deck. My goal of making it self loading isn't really achievable unless I mount a much taller crane. I'm not willing to give up my tarp nor add the weight. I still do most of my camping outdoors. The S-280 is essentially a truck camper w/ no overhang for the bunks. It's just big enough to provide a warm, dry place to sleep or curl up in a squall to read a book. An alcohol stove does double duty for making hot drinks and pre-heating the cabin in the morning so you can put on warm, dry clothes (damp clothes...the single thing I hated most about tent camping...grr).

I like my driving lights. There is a decided lack of off-the-shelf bumpers, brushguards and bullbars in the States. I'm getting mixed messages from the Aussie builders about fitment of their bullbars....Unless I can get a straight answer, it looks like I will be building a steel bumper w/ a folding brush guard/light mount. I'm just smart enough to know that these FGs aren't tough enough to trash off-road regularly. I will omit the winch in favor of a couple of big tow hooks and occasionally carrying a farm jack/hand winch.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me how much usable fuel is in the 33 gallon tank? I suspect 28 usable is about right.
Combined mileage so far is about 15.5 mpg. I suspect that my 62 mph (indicated) freeway speeds @ 2250-ish rpms is what's keeping me from getting better mileage.
Anyone have any tire psi recommendations? I'm running 80psi now.
Anyone have any input on a good torque multiplier for the lug nuts?
Interchangeability of the stock wheels? Can I swap an outer dual to the front to limp somewhere in a pinch?

I just started using Stanadyne diesel additive because of previous experience and recommendation by a well known Seattle based diesel injector/pump repair facility. I used to run a mobile tool truck w/ the 6.2 diesel. My tank range was 132 miles (all city, idling all day). My range w/ the Stanadyne additive increased by about 20 miles to 152, easily paying for the additive. I expect similar results in the FG.
That's about it. I'm enjoying my FG immensely despite the rougher ride. My Tundra now feels strangely cumbersome with that big 'ol hood and thick steering wheel. My FG is more nimble in city traffic and much more fun to drive....corners good too.
I'm hoping that the relatively light use and simplicity of design will mean that my FG will greatly outlast any large pickup on the market today. Time will tell.
 

fluffyprinceton

Adventurer
Thanks for the "ceramic window film" tip - FG's really need it.

"Anyone have any tire psi recommendations? I'm running 80psi now." Look around the tire manufacture website - you are looking for tire inflation tables that give the psi based on load. @ 8600lbs 80psi is likely too high in the front & WAY too much on the duals but run your rig through a truck scale & look up the psi for each axle - that's for highway use. Airing down & an onboard compressor is essential for any comfort on rough roads in an FG.

"Anyone have any input on a good torque multiplier for the lug nuts?" @200 lbs on the end of a 4ft breaker bar = 800 ft lbs. FG's lug nuts want 400lbs torque so just stand on the 2ft mark...This works fine unless they've been over torqued so you have to watch tire guys like a hawk - or better yet insist on tightening them yourself.

"Interchangeability of the stock wheels? Can I swap an outer dual to the front to limp somewhere in a pinch?" They are totally interchangeable - Think of those duals as a great way to carry two spares at all times...I like my duals! Moe
 

dlh62c

Explorer
^
Start out at 45psi in the rear and 65psi in the front. If you feel the tires dragging when making turns, up the front to 70psi.

In a pinch you can take off one of the outside rear tires and place it on the front, depending on your load. You'll have to increase tire pressure in that single rear tire since it's doing all the work. I wouldn't drive hundreds of miles like that at highway speeds.

If your plan is to keep your duals and you want some spares, contact Michelle at EC, they have spanking new wheels and tires that she will sell and freight right to your door.

Search YouTube for Cheater Wrench. There's a model out there that has a Budd Socket to remove the inner rear wheel.
 

Decanter

Adventurer
Howdy Y'all!....
I'd like to explore the idea of set of single wheels but the guys at Stockton wheels are not very helpful. Are there specs.drawings (copies of the Aussie wheels) available? Someone suggested having them cut the centers out of my wheels to build off of....Is the expense of single wheels worth it on a road truck....? Expected fuel mileage gain @ 60 mph?

Take a peak at my instragram link below for Stockton wheel info and my SO number that they can copy from.
 

skippythedog

Observer
Thanks for the wheel specs.

Hmmm...you've had those built since the owner passed away....I've seen some threads wherein people have suffered some catastrophic failures or near failures due to cracked welds. (I'm at page 45 of the 60 so far in the Heavy Japanese threads).

Are those 16x8? Reversible, any position?
Did you send them your old wheels to hack the centers out?
Did you get the specs the same way, from their files/invoices or another source?

thanks again,

karl
 

Decanter

Adventurer
Those are 19.5's, reversible, and made from new parts by stockton. I had them build two wheels to match the four that I purchased from a expo member used. He put 30-40k miles on those Stockton wheels without issue. They completed the wheels in just under 4 weeks and with the SO number I list they should be able to recreate a six bolt reversible Fuso wheel. I would imagine with the specs they could create any size for you and with a few calculations even switch the width if needed.
 
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kerry

Expedition Leader
I'm running about 45psi in my front tires I think. Definitely not 80 psi. No wonder you needed the shocks and timbrens:)
 

DzlToy

Explorer
$1500 for a starter? Where? Made from gold? I just had the one in my Fuso rebuilt for $140 and had it back the next day.

Not much to go wrong with a water pump unless the housing is cracked. It's an impeller and some gears.

45 psi rear and 50 front is what I run in my FE 140. No reason for a multiplier unless an idiot with a 1" gun put them on. A 3/4 inch drive socket wrench and the correct socket are plenty. Put some Never Seize on them to handle the rain and snow and a tiny bit of oil or grease around the cone or flange of the lug nut, so it does not rust itself to the wheel.

Center console issue can be resolved by heading to your local wrecking yard and pulling one from a full sized pickup truck. You will need to remove the folding center seat and reupholster the factory seat or install a new bucket seat if you have the same setup that is in the FE trucks.

There is an overhead console in the larger COE trucks (FTR, FM, FH, etc.) so you may be able to pull something from there and make it work for an FG.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
No reason for a multiplier unless an idiot with a 1" gun put them on.
And there is the problem....
This is why I have my own torque wrench and do my own tyre rotations.
If you leave your truck at a tyre shop you may never know that the nuts were done up stupid tight with a rattle gun until you are trying to change a wheel on the side of the road.


Put some Never Seize on them to handle the rain and snow and a tiny bit of oil or grease around the cone or flange of the lug nut, so it does not rust itself to the wheel.
Personally, I would never put any lubricant on the taper where the nut does up on the rim.
If lubricant is used on the studs (which I do) then you should only torque the nuts to the lowest torque setting in the range.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
I don't let idiots with 1" air guns install or rotate my 'tyres' so I know they are at the correct spec and that I can get them off.

There is no reason (IMO) to have massive amounts of torque on a wheel nut. There is no force trying to spin the lug nuts off, so 350 - 400 foot pounds (475 - 550 Nm) should be more than enough. I have owned cars with OEM spec of 80 foot pounds and never lost a wheel in my life. More is not better, it's just more.

To the OP, if you are new to these trucks and it sounds like you are, spend some time going through yours and getting to know it. MOST people don't know much about them and this includes service advisors and "technicians" at stealerships and diesel repair facilities. IF you have the 4M50 motor that the FE has, check your EGR cooler, fan clutch and belts. Those motors are notorious for over heating.

You were lucky finding the 109" WB on the FG, those are relatively uncommon in the US.
 

unkamonkey

Explorer
Personally I always put my wheels back on myself. The Mitsu is probably the most problem of all of them. Put them on with the tools you have so you can change a wheel if needed out in the hot arid afternoon. Rattle gun jockeys don't know about proper torque and many don't know about LH vs RH threads on my Mitsu or my old Jeep.

Just the way I do things.
 

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