Building a new bumper.................Considerations?

skippythedog

Observer
Commissioned a fabricator in the Seattle area to build me a new bumper for my '07 FG140.

We're using 1/8" steel and opted for a tilting brushguard to mount lights and protect the headlights.
I ruled out the fixed/angled brushguard because some of the Aussies said that the angled ones tend to drive the critters right below the rig, wiping out some plumbing (A/C in particular).

I like things simple so no cutouts for foglights or a winch mount. Instead, just 2 big tow eyes w/ shackles centered over the frame rails, and a 2" receiver (bike rack and/or portable winch).
The nose of the bumper between the frame rails will protrude about 4 inches, the hinges for the center section uprights will be mounted there w/ some generic tabs for some of the midsize Lightforce lights (maybe the 240's if there's room).

Instead of tubes attempting to protect all the stock lights by wrapping around the perimeter of the light assemblies, (examples I've seen still obscure the signals) the outboard tubes will pass across the area just above the headlight but below the signal bulb (1.75 inch tubing passing through an area of about 3 inches) so the interference with the signals should be minimal (unless you're laying on the ground in front of the truck......) Rear stanchions will be pinned w/ pins w/ detent balls and short keeper cables, passing through bushings.
The hinges up front will have bushings as well.

I'm worried about harmonics/vibration affecting the lights and am considering adapting some Delrin bushings for the hinges and the rear pins.

I thought about importing from Down Under but got mixed opinions from builders re: frame dimensions etc.

Has anyone else had one custom built in the States? Any other considerations/options I haven't thought of?
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
Delrin won't dampen much but other than that, it sounds good. I would use bronze bushings for the hinges or just metal on metal. You won't be constantly pivoting it so I don't see much need for bushings unless you like overkill, which I totally understand. If you want the lights dampened, mount them on rubber or poly mounts.
 

Czechsix

Watching you from a ridge
I opted for a fixed bumper/bar assembly.

Not so much for the very occasional animal hit, but because I have the cab tilted much more often. And I know myself. And I know shop techs.

And I know that sooner or later, that cab will be tilted right into the tilting brushguard that hasn't been tilted. ;D

20160816_110704-L.jpg
 

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
I ruled out the fixed/angled brushguard because some of the Aussies said that the angled ones tend to drive the critters right below the rig, wiping out some plumbing (A/C in particular).

seems like it going with an angled design with added protection for the underbody components would be a better option
 

skippythedog

Observer
I really like the design on the FM260, but note how the door opens clear of the bumper area....On the FG's the door hangs below the level of the bumper which blows my preference of having the bumper be the widest part of the vehicle. The door has to open while passing the bumper, unless you leave a big gap.....
Likewise, the design on CzechSix' bumper is great. Even my fabricator wants to angle the underside up at the edges....but I'm a form follows function guy and want it square all the way to the edge in order to protect the steps and the AC...we're even adding about 2" to the bottom (compared to the stock bumper for that......but as I'm thinking about it, this protection could be done with tubing to reduce the bulky look.....and I'm still vacillating about doing a fixed guard....I do like to putter under the hood a lot....
 

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