1988 RRC 4.6L Conversion - Need some assistance

[CassidyN3555L]

Thanks for the note on the washers. I assume I just need to remove the pulley, figure out the correct size of washer, and put in enough spacers until the belt stops rubbing?

Yes, there is a little wire running from the back side of the alternator, assuming this is what sends the signal to the tachometer? What is it supposed to connect to, maybe I can just replace with new wire and tachometer will come back to life?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Roverchef]

If you get the belt thing addressed and you still get a knocking noise from the motor then pull the oil pan off and look for the shiny scrape mark from the crankshaft on the inside of the oil pan. When using the 3.5,3.9,4.2 oil pan on a 4.0,4.6 block there is minimal clearance on the very front of the oil pan. Lightly tap it with a rubber mallet and that will normally clearance it enough. Get a timing gun with a tack on it so you can see where you are @ and able to set your base idle.

 

[jymmiejamz]

Thanks for the note on the washers. I assume I just need to remove the pulley, figure out the correct size of washer, and put in enough spacers until the belt stops rubbing?

Just a standard flat washer (x3) should work, the original plate isn't very thick.

 

[CassidyN3555L]

We're one step closer!

The washers worked beautifully. The engine now runs smooth with no bad noises.

Upon further investigation, the alternator voltage regulator was bad. I replaced the alternator this afternoon but had to transfer the capacitors. Despite the new alternator, the tach is still not operating. Wondering if the capacitors have anything to do with this?? Other thoughts?

Also, the o2 sensors may not be working. Both were new, however, the plug coming from the truck on the driver side was damaged in the form of the wires having been pulled out of the plastic housing. I tried to repair by putting the wires back into the clip but I don't think it is working. Assuming I'd be better off finding a replacement plug to cut and splice into then try again?

Perhaps the tach and 02 sensor and engine not running as powerful as it should be are related?

In other news, my brake lights and reverse lights are suddenly not working.
Blinkers aren't working either but those haven't been working for a while, despite swapping out the blinker switch unit.
Thoughts on either of these matters?

You guys have been a tremendous help with all this weird little stuff that I've run into. I very much appreciate your insight and experience.
On the one hand, I have a lot of frustration because of the guy leaving me hanging and the botched engine job that I've had to finish. On the other hand, largely because of your assistance, I've been learning a hell of a lot with regard to maintaining the Classic.

Here's a photo from the test drive around the farm yesterday.

 

[Factoid]

It is either power to the injectors or the switched ground that cycles the injectors. That is assuming that by"dry injectors" you mean the fuel rail is pressurized and full of fuel, but the injector is dry on the intake side. I'm betting the ground is not connected properly.

 

[CassidyN3555L]

The lights issue is now sorted. There was a fuse I missed on the brake lights and the flasher/hazard relay under the dash was bad.

Now I'm trying to sort the INOP tachometer and engine temp gauge.
When I installed the new alternator, I had to reuse the capacitors from the old alternator on the new ones, which have the wires going to the tach. I'm wondering if after installing a new alternator but reusing the capacitors, maybe those are bad which is why the tach isn't reporting. Anyone have experience with this issue?

Not sure if I can find replacement capacitors or if I should return the alternator and buy a more expensive one that comes with new capacitors ( didn't realize this was a thing until I reinstalled).

Still working on sourcing the 02 sensor replacement plug or engine harness if needed.