Suburban tire dilemma...

[HuskerTrev]

While you are under there, it is probably a good idea to check the backing plates on your rear axle. They are notorious for rotting out and letting all kinds of gravel and crud into the brake drum, then your parking brake will no longer work (ask me how I figured that one out). Good news on those is that they make a two piece aftermarket plate that is pretty easy to install.

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[justcuz]

I've got 285/75x16's on my 2000, still stock front suspension and factory wheels. I get a little rub at right full lock backing up and it's only because the plastic inner fender is slightly deformed. 285/75x16's are not a true 33" tire. Most run between 32.5 to 32.8 inches tall. Discount may try to tell you they won't mount 285's on stock wheels because it's not on their chart. They think the wheels are 6.5" wide, 8 lug ones are, 6 lug wheels are 7" bead to bead. I am on my 3rd set of 285's on stock wheels with 50 tp 60,000 miles per set. Rotation every 10,000 miles.

 

[rayra]

Described the process in my 'Hey Vortec Guys' topic. You can do the keys nd spacers in just a few hours. And the only specialty tool can be borrowed for free from most chain auto stores. It really isnt difficult at all. Just shoot some penetratrating oil a day before, and have a decent breaker bar and BFH on hand.

 

[upcruiser]

I had Duratracs on our FJ Cruiser when we lived in Vail. I thought they worked better than the older model BFG AT's I had on my Discovery when I lived in Evergreen. The AT's were the snow rated ones. The Duratracs seemed to have better siping. They weren't loud at all new, but got louder as they wore. They performed much better in mud and sand than the AT's. I haven't tried the the new AT's so no personal experience to share. I can tell you though that I went with the Grabber AT2's and have been really happy with them on our Burb. They are wearing really well, even with the towing and have been happy with traction in the dirt. I don't know if it's the weight of the rig or what, but compared to vehicles I have had BFG AT's on in the past, these seem to do better for me in the mud and sandy conditions that the BFG's struggled in for me. I got the snow rated ones and they worked well. No real complaints for not being a dedicated snow tire. Relatively quiet too like the AT's. I think value-wise they are hard to beat. Thinking of getting a set to replace the Mud Terrains on our Land Cruiser.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

AT KO2's

I have gone through a lot of BFG ATs and AT/KOs, and I won't buy any more of them. Have not had AT/KO-2s, though. Problems with my last two sets of BFGs related to tread separations, serious front end shimmy, and poor wear on the AT/KOs. I much prefer Toyo or Nitto. Subs are heavy, get Load Range E.

 

[Burb One]

Described the process in my 'Hey Vortec Guys' topic. You can do the keys nd spacers in just a few hours. And the only specialty tool can be borrowed for free from most chain auto stores. It really isnt difficult at all. Just shoot some penetratrating oil a day before, and have a decent breaker bar and BFH on hand.

+1 to this. I can do it in less than an hour, including shocks. If it's your first time, and aren't comfortable around tools, and the rust. I'd say cranking the bars, and putting in a spring spacer takes MAYBE 2 or 3 hours. It really is simple. If you aren't doing any real offroading then forget the shocks for now, you can do those later.

Also these lifts are CHEAP you can find spacers for $30 on ebay or amazon. Look for the steel ones. Say less tha $100 total, even if you have to buy a harbor fright jack and jackstand to hold you over and not have to buy unwanted tires, it is worth it.

PM if you need anyhelp, I can send you links. Also Rayra's writeup is very good.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Wait, so let me ask THIS of the group:
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If the 33's are likely to rub on my unlifted LT, am I right in thinking they would be more likely to rub on the front rather than the back? So my question would be: If I just got underneath the truck with a wrench and cranked up the existing keys a little, would that likely be enough to clear the 33's? As others have said, we're talking a half inch difference in width and a half inch in diameter as measured from the center of the wheel - it can't be that close, can it?
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That would buy me a little time until I installed the lift.
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Also how difficult is it to swap the rear springs? would I need a spring compressor in order to be able to do that safely? I bought Z71 rear springs. My thought was that I'd rather have a longer spring than a spacer and my old LT springs are probably pretty worn out anyway.
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FWIW I bought a complete set of Bilstein shocks, front and rear. Keys, springs, shocks and sway bar ends (front only) are sitting in my garage right now. I wasn't planning on using a spacer as most of them seem to be too high for my needs (2" and up.)

 

[p nut]

My thought: You're planning to install the swap eventually, right? Why not get it done now, so you can enjoy it rather than agonizing all winter whether the tire will fit? You've got people volunteering to help, so just buck up and do it this weekend, and enjoy the 33's!

 

[rayra]

The biggest clearance problem you'll have is at the rear bottom of the front wheel well opening. That may rub at full steering lock and will almost certainly rub under compression and lock. Likewise you make get some rub on the inner top of the front wheel tub, again under compression.
Cranking a bunch on the front keys will buy you some room, but stiffen your ride and foul your camber. I wouldn't recommend it before any major trips, without an alignment after you make the change.
Part of the trouble is that the back of the front wheel well opening is pretty near vertical at that point. A little bit of lift there doesn't change your clearance much.

Again, Martin, I describe it all in my other topic, including that there is no need for a spring compressor. You get the *** in the air, you disconnect the linkages, shocks, the brake line retainer (FIRST!) and the axle drops low enough for the springs to FALL out. May take a little wiggling / see-sawing of the axle to do this. The only specialty tool needed is the torsion key unloading tool, and if used right (and as I describe in that other topic) you barely have to use it at all, either.
We really have talked and thought about it longer than it takes to actually do it.

but go ahead and try just cranking up on your existing keys, see what you can get. All it takes is an 18mm socket and a decent breaker bar. If you jack the vehicle up in a manner to take the weight off the front suspension, it will be even easier to turn.

 

[Burb One]

The biggest clearance problem you'll have is at the rear bottom of the front wheel well opening. That may rub at full steering lock and will almost certainly rub under compression and lock. Likewise you make get some rub on the inner top of the front wheel tub, again under compression.
Cranking a bunch on the front keys will buy you some room, but stiffen your ride and foul your camber. I wouldn't recommend it before any major trips, without an alignment after you make the change.
Part of the trouble is that the back of the front wheel well opening is pretty near vertical at that point. A little bit of lift there doesn't change your clearance much.

Again, Martin, I describe it all in my other topic, including that there is no need for a spring compressor. You get the *** in the air, you disconnect the linkages, shocks, the brake line retainer (FIRST!) and the axle drops low enough for the springs to FALL out. May take a little wiggling / see-sawing of the axle to do this. The only specialty tool needed is the torsion key unloading tool, and if used right (and as I describe in that other topic) you barely have to use it at all, either.
We really have talked and thought about it longer than it takes to actually do it.

but go ahead and try just cranking up on your existing keys, see what you can get. All it takes is an 18mm socket and a decent breaker bar. If you jack the vehicle up in a manner to take the weight off the front suspension, it will be even easier to turn.

+1 to what Rayra said. No spring compressors, no special tools other than a socker.

Rear is literally un clip the brake line so it doesn't snag, remove the bottom bolt on the rear shocks, and it should be enough room for the spring to come out, if not it's one extra bolt to remove one of the arms on the axle to get it to come lower. It's as simple as it gets.

Front is because you are not changing keys and only adding some crank (for now, I would recommend at some point after your trip getting proper keys because it rides better), you dont even need the torsion bar removal tool just left the front of the truck so the wheels are off the ground/ fully decompressed and then just turn the bolt to crank the keys, lower the front, jump on the bumper to settle the truck and repeat until you have it at the height you want.

As for alignment, just get it within a few hundred miles.

 

[Burb One]

EDIT- just read you have all the parts for the lift already!!! Just do it all! I can PM you my phone number, you run into any problems, I can walk you through it. Just do it right the first time, it won't take that long, Promise! and then you won't have to double spend on tires or anything!

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Why not install a set of 255/85r16's?

 

[Burb One]

I thought about those awhile back, man they look weird on suburbans that skinny at 33's. The 35's skinny look fine for some reason (almost old school land cruiser) but the 33's when they are skinny just look too small. Also not sure about weight loading, especially towing with the skinny tires. Don't know if that makes a difference?

 

[Martinjmpr]

Why not install a set of 255/85r16's?

I thought about those awhile back, man they look weird on suburbans that skinny at 33's. The 35's skinny look fine for some reason (almost old school land cruiser) but the 33's when they are skinny just look too small. Also not sure about weight loading, especially towing with the skinny tires. Don't know if that makes a difference?

Yeah the current 265s look skinny enough. 255's would look really weird.

The GMT800 body kind of calls for a "fat tire" look anyway.

 

[Tiki]

Over thinking it. Stock keys, 295/70r17, no rubbing.