Super Loaded LR3 Control Arm Questions

tdhunter13

Observer
So after a lot of deliberation, reading, and hearing everyone else's experiences, I have made my decision. The plan is to do the Front Lowers with '06-'09 RRS Arms, LR029306G and LR029304G specifically(correct me if wrong) and the Front Sway bushings. That will hopefully be done two weekends from now and at that time my mechanic and I will look at the rears (I'll take pics for you all to evaluate) and if the rears need to be replaced soon, I'll do them in Dec when I have a lot of vacation.

I also plan to keep the old lowers and buy a RRS Bushing Kit for them in the future, just found out we have a suspension shop in town that will press them in/out for a decent price. So that way I can have a set ready to go.

So as of now that is the best plan/compromise I can come up with.

I have been hearing a dull rumble (think metal parts in a cardboard box) in the back (I think) when I accelerate from a stop, but then can't hear it once I get above 25-30. Any thoughts on where to start looking when I get it on the lift?

Thanks everyone, you've been super helpful.
Tyler
 

morrisdl

Adventurer
I think you need an alignment after control arms are replaced. I suggest using a good Land rover dealership for alignments (not an indy shop).
 

tdhunter13

Observer
I think you need an alignment after control arms are replaced. I suggest using a good Land rover dealership for alignments (not an indy shop).

Oh yeah, the second I am done with the front suspension stuff it will be getting an alignment.
 

morrisdl

Adventurer
Anybody tried these "extra heavy duty" LCRs for $299ea?

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http://www.advsuspension.com/parts-and-accessories/suspension-parts/other-parts/
 

tdhunter13

Observer
Quick question. Do you all usually buy a new air Strut bolt like you do with the control arm bolts or is it not really an area of concern? I notice that most of the 'bolt kits' are just the control arm bolts and cams. Which leads me to believe that the air strut connection doesn't suffer from the same issues of corrosion and seizing.

Thanks
Tyler
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Quick question. Do you all usually buy a new air Strut bolt like you do with the control arm bolts or is it not really an area of concern? I notice that most of the 'bolt kits' are just the control arm bolts and cams. Which leads me to believe that the air strut connection doesn't suffer from the same issues of corrosion and seizing.

Thanks
Tyler

For the most part dealers try to reuse the hardware unless it is obviously compromised. My LCA's ended up needing all new bolts due to heavy corrosion issues. I think for the connection to the strut, less moisture ends up there as opposed to the frame bolt since there is less of a catchment area to trap salt, dirt, water etc. The bolts that attach the LCA to the frame sit in this flat area that attracts a lot of junk and is harder to keep clean.

If you were planning a DIY I would get a full set of bolts unless you've got a super clean vehicle. :)
 

KMET

Adventurer
Quick question. Do you all usually buy a new air Strut bolt like you do with the control arm bolts or is it not really an area of concern? I notice that most of the 'bolt kits' are just the control arm bolts and cams. Which leads me to believe that the air strut connection doesn't suffer from the same issues of corrosion and seizing.

Thanks
Tyler

You're correct. Having changed arms a few times, that bolt in question are still original on mine.
 

jymmiejamz

Adventurer
Quick question. Do you all usually buy a new air Strut bolt like you do with the control arm bolts or is it not really an area of concern? I notice that most of the 'bolt kits' are just the control arm bolts and cams. Which leads me to believe that the air strut connection doesn't suffer from the same issues of corrosion and seizing.

Thanks
Tyler

If you are only changing the bushings, there is no need to remove the air spring bolt. That of course is assuming you are doing it with them on the car. I've personally never encountered a seized air spring bolt on an LR3/4 or RRS, but we don't have a lot of rust in NYC.

I always replace all four bolts and the cam washers because they have been updated to a better design that is less likely do get stripped out when doing the alignment. Also, don't put the bolts in backwards.
 

tdhunter13

Observer
So, after getting her up in the air and pulling a front and rear wheel off it's part of what I expected. The front lowers are toast, can put a bar on the front lower rear-bush and get A LOT of play, but surprisingly the sway bar bushes, sway links, and tie-rods are all good. No play or movement could be had. However, an inspection of the rear lowers showed they were bad as well, specifically the rear lower front-bush. Luckily though, the rear sway bush and link were good. Both front and rear uppers looked/felt fine.
So it seems as though I will be needing lowers on all corners. My plan is to buy from roverparts and use prices from landrovermerriamparts to price match. Going '06-'09 RRS all the way around. Hopefully I can get it done during the week of Thanksgiving.
 

jymmiejamz

Adventurer
So, after getting her up in the air and pulling a front and rear wheel off it's part of what I expected. The front lowers are toast, can put a bar on the front lower rear-bush and get A LOT of play, but surprisingly the sway bar bushes, sway links, and tie-rods are all good. No play or movement could be had. However, an inspection of the rear lowers showed they were bad as well, specifically the rear lower front-bush. Luckily though, the rear sway bush and link were good. Both front and rear uppers looked/felt fine.
So it seems as though I will be needing lowers on all corners. My plan is to buy from roverparts and use prices from landrovermerriamparts to price match. Going '06-'09 RRS all the way around. Hopefully I can get it done during the week of Thanksgiving.

Not saying it isn't possible, but it would be very unusual for the rear lowers to fail. The rear uppers are much more common.
 

tdhunter13

Observer
Good news: Talked to the service guys at my LR Dealer and they quoted me $125 for the 4 wheel alignment. Which I thought was pretty freaking fantastic.

Bad News: They're booked out through the end of November and the next closest dealer is 2 hours away.

Indifferent News: I now have plenty of time to work on the front control arms!
 

jymmiejamz

Adventurer
Good news: Talked to the service guys at my LR Dealer and they quoted me $125 for the 4 wheel alignment. Which I thought was pretty freaking fantastic.

Bad News: They're booked out through the end of November and the next closest dealer is 2 hours away.

That is a killer deal on an alignment, I think we charge over $400, but our labor rate is $179/hr.

If you want the work done sooner, drop your vehicle off before your scheduled appointment (assuming they don't charge for parking) and tell them to try to fit it in. It will probably get done sooner rather than later.
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
That is a killer deal on an alignment, I think we charge over $400, but our labor rate is $179/hr.

If you want the work done sooner, drop your vehicle off before your scheduled appointment (assuming they don't charge for parking) and tell them to try to fit it in. It will probably get done sooner rather than later.

Dang. Here the rate is $165. Dealer charges $190 for an allignment, at least that's what I paid.
 

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