Pulsing/wobbling brakes: Pads? Rotors?

[Burb One]

So I've decided to do the brakes this weekend, time and weather permitting. Any recommendations on pads/rotors? Are the expensive, high-zoot ceramic pads worth the extra $$? Keep in mind this is a DD so it will see lots of stop-and-go city and suburban traffic. Any brands recommended to use or recommended to avoid?

For these trucks, I go with the best rotors I can find. Usually, on Rock Auto, I get some higher end slotted rotors.

For the pads I go with the Autozone Duralast Severe Duty(i think they renamed them recently). They are cheap, and not the best, but also have a lifetime warranty, so when I get to half pad life, I replace them for free. Every 3ish half pads I replace the rotors based on cupping. Haven't had any break issues with this combo. I think a lot of brake issues comes with cheap rotors.

 

[Chili]

So I've decided to do the brakes this weekend, time and weather permitting. Any recommendations on pads/rotors? Are the expensive, high-zoot ceramic pads worth the extra $$? Keep in mind this is a DD so it will see lots of stop-and-go city and suburban traffic. Any brands recommended to use or recommended to avoid?

I wouldn't recommend ceramic pads for DD street duty, especially anything 'race' oriented, as they will generally not brake as well under normal driving temperatures and most of us wouldn't keep them in the optimal temp range. I agree with geronracing, just HD 'store brand' should be good for those. I also wouldn't do anything slotted or drilled as far as rotors, but I doubt you would have anyways.

 

[calicamper]

I wouldn't recommend ceramic pads for DD street duty, especially anything 'race' oriented, as they will generally not brake as well under normal driving temperatures and most of us wouldn't keep them in the optimal temp range. I agree with geronracing, just HD 'store brand' should be good for those. I also wouldn't do anything slotted or drilled as far as rotors, but I doubt you would have anyways.

Temps for the ceramics is a good point. They need higher temps to give good brake performance. Drilled on a heavy expo type rig not ideal the drilled aspect can weaken the discs. Slotted I'm not sure what it would ever do beyond look different.

 

[Martinjmpr]

So, just to be clear, if I go into an O'Reillys, Auto Zone, Advance Auto or similar, and order the basic rotors and pads, I should be good to go for daily/street use? I figured as much but wanted to be sure.

I'm leaning towards O'Reilly's just because they have a pretty good tool loan program and I think I can borrow a grease gun for the bearings. I like the dual-cone bearing greaser thing (used one on my old Mazda) so I'll pick one of those up. Only other tool I'll need is a pair of pliers for the C-clip.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Oh, another dumb question: Do I need to wear a mask when cleaning (blowing) the brake dust off the components? Or did they finally stop making brake pads from asbestos?

 

[Hawairish]

Oh, another dumb question: Do I need to wear a mask when cleaning (blowing) the brake dust off the components? Or did they finally stop making brake pads from asbestos?

Better off just using brake cleaner and spraying everything down. Keeps the dust down and is far more effective, but obviously be mindful of the overspray, fumes, skin contact, etc. Gloves, glasses, and some cardboard usually helps to catch drippings (it'll evaporate quickly, though). But if you choose to dust, yes, wear a mask.

 

[Burb One]

As other said, get some brake cleaner. I've always used a liquid based brake cleaner, and made sure to have fresh air/ not breathe the fumes when wiping down. I've never blown the dust with air, but I'd imagine thats not good to breathe that dust. The cleaner will do much much better job than the air will.

Also- NO on ceramic pads. Get the better metallic ones. I am not sure what Oreilly's options are, but metallic will give you a better friction coefficient, at the cost of dust and life. That is fine and what you want. These trucks already have slightly underpowered brakes for their size (especially with all the camping crap).

Also, Autozone has the same or better tool loan program in my area . My local autozone has a 30 day return, the oreilly and pepboys near me has a 3 day. Not sure if this is store dependent tor company. Sometimes it is hard to beat pepboys seemingly always there 25-30% online coupon though for store pickup

For the rotors the only store brand I would buy would be the Napa Gold or Wagner discs. Also, as other said DO NOT get drilled rotors, increased chance of cracking. Slotted technically should give you a little better wet performance on initial bite and also should help with warping slightly, but on these trucks I've never noticed too much difference. Big thing is to get QUALITY rotors and at least decent pads, unless you want to do this job again soon.

Edit- just noticed this is not for your suburban (Again), however I'd think the same would apply. Get good rotors, decent pads. Even with all the above said,since it's a DD and not a big truck/ hauler, I would probably just go with whatever is cheap and on sale for middle grade pads (even if it's ceramic) and decent rotors.

 

[Hawairish]

My local autozone has a 30 day return, the oreilly and pepboys near me has a 3 day.

This is a really good point to bring up...definitely check their tool return policy. O'Reilly and also NAPA have short loan programs; if you fail to return the tool within that time frame, you'll end up buying a loaner tool you likely didn't want own. I rent from AutoZone because they have a much longer policy...you never know when you might need to wait an extra day (or days) to continue a project. Beats having to make a return trip to re-rent it...especially if your vehicle is inoperable...and helps to avoid feeling rushed to use the tool.

 

[trasko]

@OP: How did it end up? Did new rotors fix the issue?

 

[Martinjmpr]

@OP: How did it end up? Did new rotors fix the issue?

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Haven't got around to doing it yet, family stuff got in the way. May have to wait until after the holidays. As of now at least the pulsing is still there but it's not terrible. Since this is mostly an "in town" car, it hasn't been much of a problem.