Bantam T3

[mikgrail3]

I have been reading the board for awhile and there is so much great information here. I just recently came across a Bantam T3 trailer in decent condition. My plans are to make this into an AT trailer with a lid and eventually an RTT. Right now I have all the lights, reflectors and fenders off to get the paint off. Someone brushed on a camo style paint that is flakey and chipping. My dilemma is that I am having difficulty getting the paint off. i have access to a compressor and have used an angle grinder with wire brush and an orbital sander with 80 grit paper. The sander really melts the paint off when at high speed but when I apply it for more than a few seconds it slows down and really doesn't do the job. Its not holding the rpms like I need it to. Besides sandblasting what methods and/or tools have others used to get the paint off? I would like to avoid using chemicals being my kids like to hang around and watch.

Here's what it looked like when I got it home;

 

[Robert Bills]

Other than sandblasting and chemical strippers, the only other effective method is grinding and sanding for hours on end. Sandblasting is really the best method.

Although sandblasting might cost $250 or so, when one factors in the cost of materials to grind/sand, the value of the time it takes to strip the paint that way (even at minimum wage), and the near certainty that the military paint under the camo is lead based, sandblasting is the most efficient, cost-effective and safest method.

 

[IH8RDS]

Looks in really good shape.

Sand blasting is the way to go, but I took mine down to the metal painstakingly with a wire wheel. If I did it again I would have just knocked off the flakes with a wire wheel, sanded and filled it. The paint that is sticking good will be there forever, plus you really don't know what is in the paint and it creates allot of dust.

 

[CoastalDefender]

...plus you really don't know what is in the paint and it creates allot of dust.

That ain't no joke. Just sanded a bunch off mine. HOLY CRAP!! Glad I was wearing a resperator and goggles.

I'm sanding down a bunch of mine. But only because I'm poor. And I'm just sanding what's rusty, not the whole thing. It may not look showroom perfect, but this is going to be an offroad trailer, so it'll end up with the dings etc anyways. No biggie on a few blems.

 

[Honu]

no clue if it would work but what about a good old fashioned blade scraper the handheld kind the kind you draw not push on
when they are sharp they can remove quite a bit quickly ?

looks cool in cammo

 

[mikgrail3]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a good ole fashioned paint scraper and that just slid nicely over the top of the paint. I did find out that the compressor I am using doesn't have enough output. When the tank is up to 80psi, the sander does a really nice job. After a few seconds of running the compressor cannot keep up with the pressure drop and it starts to slow down. I'm going to rent a larger compressor to try. The current one is 1.5hp, I heard that a 5.0 or 6.0hp is ideal for this work. Big difference.

I'm planning on using it for an offroad trailer, too, and I know it will get scraped and bumped. But I'd like to try and avoid as many pits as possible under the new paint.

I just registered and titled it today. The poor guy I bought it from bought it back in '92 and never titled it. He had the signed title from the prior owner, but just never went to the MVD to put it in his name. He had to come with me and do it today. There was a $100 penalty for not doing it within 15 days of purchase. Good thing $100 was the max because its an $8/mo penalty on being 16 years late.

 

[IZZYDUSIT]

Check my trailer build- I grinded the trailer down to the bare metal- will not do it again since you can't get all the old paint from all the angels. beside, if you plan to powdercoat it, just work out a deal with the powder coating joint to do you a combo job- a lot nicer, cheaper in the long run, and will last you for a long time!
I have noticed that you are from Phx, here is where I took mine-GLENDALE POWDERCOATING, their #= 623-937-5557
BTW- great looking trailer!!
I thought all Bantem had rear gates, no?

 

[Jeepcrz]

I have a M416, I live in Tucson and I paid a sandblaster $160 to take it down to the bare metal. That was the frame, tub, and fenders. Before I took it to the sandblaster I removed the fenders and put them in the tub, and then I removed all but two bolts on the tub-frame and then used racket straps to hold it in place. So when I arrived at the sandblaster, I had removed the last bolts and then had the guys at the company help me lift off the tub so they gould do each piece. Tucson is not all that far from Phoeonix, if you can get a good price in Phoenix, you should come down to Tucson. I can dig up the name of the blaster it you want it.

David

 

[mikgrail3]

Thanks IZZYDUSIT, I sent a quote request for sandblast and powdercoat to them. We'll see how it comes back.

The civilian version of the Bantam came with tailgates. Bantams also have welded on tubs, which makes restoring a bit more difficult. I used this website to help identify which version of the 1/4 ton trailer I have:

http://members.aol.com/brimiljeep/WebPages/JeepTrailerPage.html

 

[JJonesee]

I just paid $200 to have my M-100 blasted and primered. It took less than a day.

I priced out all options - including renting blasters, borrowing blasters, and purchasing.

I then loaded it up in the bed of my truck and took it to sandblasters as most of them thought it was much bigger than it was.

Still worth every penny. I have used the small sand pots and they are a pain.

I tried to sand/grind and while it worked, it would have taken me several days to do what they did in a few hours.

I took off the fenders, placed them in the bed. I also removed all but two lugnuts, and painted LEFT HAND on the drivers hub.

 

[JJonesee]

Also - before you blast it - I would try to find the ACM number or build numbers.

I dont plan to restore mine - but I still carefully removed the data plates and tried to find the ACM on the rear frame.

Yours is in nice shape.

Its very cool to know my trailer was built in 1951..

 

[mikgrail3]

Who ever had it prior to me stripped the whole thing of any identification, tried to rewire it to 12V, and drilled new holes to move the side and rear reflectors. I'm going to try and get the number off of the frame (that should stamped in), but other than that I don't see any identification numbers. I'll try to see if I can get under the layers of paint to the painted on numbers on the back.

 

[gpwpat]

You should find the ACM number under the left front spring hanger. it is stamped into the frame.