6.0 PSD Vaccum Pump failure

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
The vacuum pump went out on my E-350 today, seems to be a not uncommon failure and not a big expense. Just a bit of work to get at - had to pull the radiator to get enough room to get at it.

Anyway, while I have everything taken apart, what else should I look at? I'm planning on

- replacing both serpentine belts
- replacing water pump
- replacing vacuum pump

(everything is original, 70k miles on the clock)

Thanks!
 

Bbasso

Expedition Leader
I've done one... Other than pulling out the vacuum pump and some air intake pipes, I had it done in about 2 hrs...
I personally wouldn't replace anything with the low miles but I'd would strongly recommend a antifreeze filtering system.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I've done one... Other than pulling out the vacuum pump and some air intake pipes, I had it done in about 2 hrs...
I personally wouldn't replace anything with the low miles but I'd would strongly recommend a antifreeze filtering system.

It's the first time I've gone in, so has been a good learning experience.

It probably took a good hour+ to get the mechanical vacuum pump out. You're a beast - standard labor is 3 hours!

I've considered the antifreeze filter. Any brands / approaches you recommend over others?
 
Last edited:

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
When I did mine, the hard part was transferring the pulley from the old pump to the new one. To do it over, I'd buy a pulley or a pump that comes with one.
 

Bbasso

Expedition Leader
Actually that was my first time putting my hands deep in a 6.0 engine bay, I did get a helping hand when needed but I did 98% of the work.
As for the antifreeze filter, I'm not sure which is on my 7.3... dieselsite's maybe? But it works great.
 

FordGuy1

Adventurer
I would do your hoses and CAC's while your in there. Also, its worth the money to put in a DC power Alt, $400.00 and it will keep your FICM alive having 14v
 

workerdrone

Part time fulltimer
Coolant filter from mile 1 would have probably saved Ford most of the 6.0 headaches and bad rep. From what I read and discussed, good starting batteries and clean connections and no need to mess with upgraded or higher voltage FICM's
 

FordGuy1

Adventurer
Coolant filter from mile 1 would have probably saved Ford most of the 6.0 headaches and bad rep. From what I read and discussed, good starting batteries and clean connections and no need to mess with upgraded or higher voltage FICM's

Its not the FICM that's the issue, its the voltage being too low to begin with. The stock Alt when hot runs sometimes in the low 12's and when you start the vehicle you will have voltage in the 10's for up too 15-20 sec's, this really puts a strain on the FICM. The issue with the coolant is the stupid 100k interval. Change your coolant every year and this problem goes away.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I have factory dual alternators, so hopefully that will keep me okay. Ended up replacing the vacuum pump, water pump, and both serpentine belts. The belts and water pump all looked fine, but just seemed foolish not to swap them while I had everything pulled apart.

The E-350 (at least mine), doesn't give any warning at all when the vacuum pump fails (my Fuso has a low vacuum light that comes on) - first indication of a problem is when you try to brake and realize that you don't have them.
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
My vacuum pump suddenly got louder. When you can suddenly hear it over a 7.3... I didn't chance it. I didn't want to loose power assist in a 9000lb vehicle I drive my kids around in heavy traffic.
 

workerdrone

Part time fulltimer
I have factory dual alternators, so hopefully that will keep me okay. Ended up replacing the vacuum pump, water pump, and both serpentine belts. The belts and water pump all looked fine, but just seemed foolish not to swap them while I had everything pulled apart.

The E-350 (at least mine), doesn't give any warning at all when the vacuum pump fails (my Fuso has a low vacuum light that comes on) - first indication of a problem is when you try to brake and realize that you don't have them.

I had the factory duals also - I understood that it (randomly selects and) only uses one of them at a time, so it's only in the event of a failure of one of them that it's an advantage - otherwise same as having a single alt of their rating?
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I had the factory duals also - I was told that it only uses one of them at a time, so it's only in the event of a failure of one of them that it's an advantage - otherwise same as having a single alt of their rating?
I think someone was pulling your leg on that on.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

workerdrone

Part time fulltimer
Could be, I took him for his word since he was a factory cert'd Ford mech and I'm far from it :) But modern turbodiesels are complicated critters. I do know that I saw 11V sometimes for a good few seconds or so after starting. And I had brand new batteries. Never was concerned about it hurting the FICM, just wondered why I'd see it if the glow plugs should be shut off and those alternators were spinning away.
 

djbonsu

Adventurer
Could be, I took him for his word since he was a factory cert'd Ford mech and I'm far from it :) But modern turbodiesels are complicated critters. I do know that I saw 11V sometimes for a good few seconds or so after starting. And I had brand new batteries. Never was concerned about it hurting the FICM, just wondered why I'd see it if the glow plugs should be shut off and those alternators were spinning away.

The glow plugs are still fired up at times (depending on your ambient conditions and the motor oil temp) right after starting. that is why you would see 11V for the short time period the motor turning over.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Could be, I took him for his word since he was a factory cert'd Ford mech and I'm far from it :) But modern turbodiesels are complicated critters. I do know that I saw 11V sometimes for a good few seconds or so after starting. And I had brand new batteries. Never was concerned about it hurting the FICM, just wondered why I'd see it if the glow plugs should be shut off and those alternators were spinning away.

Here's what the Ford manual has to say:

Diesel, Dual Generator
The dual generator package consists of an upper/lower generator system (diesel only). The 6.0L upper generator is a 140-amp generator with a 2.79:1 pulley ratio. The 6.0L lower generator is a 120-amp generator with a 3.00:1 pulley ratio. The upper and lower generators are not interchangeable.

The dual generators operate independently of each other. The control is through the internal voltage regulators. If one generator fails, the other generator can maintain system performance under light load conditions. Under heavy load, the PCM detects a concern, sets a DTC and illuminates the charging system warning indicator.

On the dual generator system, the PCM controls the charging system warning indicator and commands the lamp on if the PCM detects a concern on the monitored circuits.
 

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