Multi-Purpose trailer build

[Comanche Scott]

Just picked up this 1964 tilt deck trailer. Amazing shape for being this old, and pretty much a blank slate for a multi-purpose build.
The plywood deck is 4'-4" wide, by 8' long.

I'm thinking of using this pretty much as is, and building "hot swap-able" boxes, for want of a better term. So I'd have one box on camper jacks that would be a "camper", and then another box that assembles for use as a utility trailer. Add some removable rails for motorcycle hauler, etc.
About the only permanent mods would be to add a fresh and grey water tank underneath, with skid plates. Then box the frame plates where the springs attach to make the axle easier to re-position (you can see in the side shot, how the plates bolt to the frame with all the holes for positioning the axle).

Are there any builds on this forum like this? I did a search for "dual purpose" and found four builds, but they aren't really "hot swap" styles.
Any input would be welcome. I've been viewing a lot of Off Road trailer builds on YouTube, and looking through some of the amazing builds on here.

This project won't start until summer, as there are two vehicle builds ahead of it. But need to start doing the planning phase now, so I'll be ready to go.

Thanks in advance, for your sage advise, and wisdom! :beer:

 

[EduardoMas]

Scott just like yours, my research yielded no results.

As an apartment dweller I bought a cheap, used, rather flexy 3 rail trailer. After moving to a house a box was made a box to haul renovation supplies... but it was tiny



THEN...
found a stronger trail trailer ($450) and revamped the frame ($350) and lights ($85)
In the images below you can see the original trailer parts in grey and the reinforcements in green, mostly 2x3x1/8” tubing. The frame is STIFF.
Just gotta mention: I design & make equipment for a living, hence the geeky CAD designs.
Once stuff is made I seldom take pics.




To convert it to a utility trailer, attach the box side panels to the frame with four 5/8 bolts per side.
Each front and back panels have two metal pegs that go down to the frame. The front and back panels attach to the sides with huge removable hinges. (the hinges are not used as such)
To take the front or back panels out, just remove the two hinge pins and lift.
The floor is just a cheap piece of loose plywood because it gets dumped on. Sometimes you can dump the contents of the trailer by pulling on it.
The sides, front and back panels are ¾” ply with tons of lacker. Again, STIFF.
A big plus of the setup is that it takes no space to store the flat components of the box when not in use.

The trailer is super flat when the moto rail uprights are lowered so I turn the trailer on the side and against the wall. This gives me room to park the SUV beside it.



Now, this is the pre-planned future 3rd use:

As I age, enduro bikes will yield to mild 4wheeling and overlanding.
With this in mind the tong is already long enough to do a 90 deg. park job and the wiring is all concealed.
A new axle with Yoyota wheels will be fitted to match the SUV.
Change the spring setup from a slider to a shackle (I already welded the brackets for it)


The overlanding box will be a complete assembly and attach on the frame with rubber mounts, kinda like body on frame truck setups.

The metal work right now is 50” between fenders and 7 ½’ long. It includes a few inches of rail overhang in the front and back to cut off if I want a shorter trailer base for overlanding.

Living in the city with small garages, all needs to be tucked in. If I had the space I would probably have more than one trailer.
I might take pics of the setup in spring when the truck and trailer come out of hibernation.

Good luck with your build.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Looks like a great build in the making. :beer:

We have very similar goals & design ideas. After reading through a lot of the trailer builds, and watching YouTube videos of Australian designed trailers, I "think" I have a good strategy.
Aluminum frame and composite panel 5x8 box, with a hard side pop-up (like an Alaskan Camper design, but with cable, instead of hydraulic). Bottom box would be about 36" tall, and house the kitchen & storage. On top of that would be the bed platform.
The top "pop-up" section would be 48" tall. This would give room for an RV queen mattress with about 16" of floor space at the back door, with shelves on either side for coats, shoes & clothing. Head room would be about 48" minus the bed thickness, so not claustrophobic, with just enough room to sit up comfortably.
Then add a 270 degree awning with mesh sidewalls, and it should be a nice sized living area, that is quick to setup - take down.

I am thinking the same body mount style, and using pipe to build sliders/protection for the trailer box that bolt to the frame. Would also make great jacking points to remove the whole assembly when setting up the trailer for utility/motorcycle hauling.

So now I need to start collecting materials, finish up a couple of projects and get to building.

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

Man! So many projects you have going, lol. Want me come pick the wagoneer back up so you don't have to worry about it?

 

[Comanche Scott]

Man! So many projects you have going, lol. Want me come pick the wagoneer back up so you don't have to worry about it?

You willing to donate your time to a worthy cause?
I've just got brakes and fuel system, then it can go out for body and interior.
Thinking it would be pretty cool with a Cummins Repower V8...

As we talked I was originally thinking of turning it #3 driver, and flipping it for charity. But with the amount of body work and interior work needed, that's not going to net much to the charity.
Now a lifted, Cummins V8 powered Waggy, might be worthy of Mecum or B-J. That could be a good net for the charity.
If Cummins does the release by the 3rd quarter this year, it could be perfect timing.

So while it's out for Body & Paint (which has to be done no matter what), I can learn how to weld aluminum and start building the Camper Box. :wings:

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

You willing to donate your time to a worthy cause?
I've just got brakes and fuel system, then it can go out for body and interior.
Thinking it would be pretty cool with a Cummins Repower V8...

As we talked I was originally thinking of turning it #3 driver, and flipping it for charity. But with the amount of body work and interior work needed, that's not going to net much to the charity.
Now a lifted, Cummins V8 powered Waggy, might be worthy of Mecum or B-J. That could be a good net for the charity.
If Cummins does the release by the 3rd quarter this year, it could be perfect timing.

So while it's out for Body & Paint (which has to be done no matter what), I can learn how to weld aluminum and start building the Camper Box. :wings:

in typical jeep fashion it has spiraled out of control! From "yeah clean it up get it driving and auction it off!" to "brand new cummins repower, full frame off resto, atlas t case, 48's, rockwells" lol!

 

[Abe Froman]

So I need something that will function though the summer as a utility and light cargo trailer (home and landscape renovation, dump runs, etc.) but then later evolve into something more camping specific.
I can't weld.
I'm looking at the trailer in the photos, any major red flags?
It needs lights, paint, and most likely a simple wood floor would work for the utility aspect.
I'd have to register as homebuilt.
I gotta be honest, this thing appeals way more to me than the standard lowrider utility trailers I have been looking at.

 

[Comanche Scott]

That looks like a very nice start, with some great potential!

It definitely looks sturdy enough. Tires look a little close to the frame, but you could always add adapters if they rub. that's a good opportunity to change the lug pattern to match your tow vehicle as well.
Down the road you may decide to move the axle back. If so, it's an easy job for a welder to do.
Drill the frame, and bolt some fenders on for now. Put down a plywood floor, and drill and bolt some stake pockets on the side.
Looks like he set it up for an off-road hitch too.
If you're pulling it with a light duty vehicle, it would be a plus if the axle has flange plates to add brakes down the road.

All in all, from the pictures it looks like a competent build. Since it looks like it was built in a welding shop, I'm thinking the work done is going to be good.

Hope it works out for you. :beer:

 

[Comanche Scott]

It's a woodie

Got '70s? :elkgrin:

Recently decided to do a big yard cleanup to get rid of a lot of construction material left over from home projects.
This interior wood paneling was pulled out of the office, and made a nice 4x8x4 box to haul all the rest of the stuff to the recycling facility.

This taught me a few things.
1). 4'x8'x4' is too small for comfort to camp in
2). Trailer is too narrow for the Jeep
3). tongue length is a bit on the short side.
4). Axle and springs are only good for about 1,500 lbs

So for the utility side of things, I think it will get an aluminum 5x8 box about 36" tall.
For the Off-Road camping side, it will definitely get a 5x8 telescopic box using aluminum and composite walls.
It will also get a wider axle with heavier springs, and shocks so that it can handle up to a max of 3,500 lbs GVW. The frame structure will support that weight, it is very sturdy.
The tongue will get extended with an off-road articulating mount.

 

[Albatross]

Since I have a "dual purpose trailer"... I would move the water tanks inside the camping box (in front of the axle), do you really need a grey water tank?

 

[Comanche Scott]

Your trailer/camper setup is awesome. I just read your thread yesterday. Thanks for the excellent documentation on your build. :beer:

I was considering tanks. The only advantages I can see to mounting the fresh water tank to the trailer itself is for the extra room in the camper, and to use the water to pressure wash the dirt bike instead of bringing all the mud home with me. Otherwise, your idea to mount them in the camper part is much simpler.
Grey water can be an issue, especially in heavily patrolled parks near the California coast. So a small 20L tank on a slide out, should be sufficient for those instances.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Typical RV water pumps don't put out much volume X pressure. They're good for filling a pot to boil the noodles in, but forget any vision you might have of blasting mud off the cab-over chainsaws. That's what DIY car washes are for.

I've given a lot of thought to moving the fresh water tank out of our pop-top camper and into the void where the OEM spare used to live. Would make for a large increase in storage inside and under the truck has room for double the water capacity or more. I believe that the current water pump would still lift that high. As this camper is lacking in some features that we wish to have it'll be the next one that gets it's water tank moved.

Can buy grey/black water tanks with wheels. I'd consider the option of one of those that can easily be R&R'd from under the trailer. Use on the ground, transport under the trailer, leave on the side yard when not needed at all.

FWC's and similar pop-tops either bolt to the bed thru the floor or employ short turn-buckles. With only 3 points of contact with anything (tires & coupler) there is no way to put the trailer frame in torsion with a distributed load like a camper box, so compliant mounts are extra effort for no gain.

Having explored a cable means to circumvent using Alaskan type hydraulics and having paid a little attention to their issues on WtW I've concluded that they're not a bad option and can be a whole lot easier to implement than a cable lifting system.

Might consider buying a pop-top camper for that use rather than building one. Can find older pop-tops for pretty reasonable if you're willing to tune them up. OTOH if it is the build that is the joy then I wanna watch!
For a rare pick-up that I own I plan to build a hard tonneau cover that can then be popped up and have marine canvas sides that drop down and seal to the bedsides for camping inside of. I plan to use the Phoenix camper type of supports, but turned to front/rear rather than side to side as they build them.

Man, I totally missed your post. My sincere apologies.
Must not have the "subscription" setup correctly.

I like your idea on the waste tank.
For the pressure washer the water tank would just be a feed to an actual portable pressure washer.
I'd like to build the pop up camper, because I haven't seen anything that really fits how I want to use it commercially available.
But, I'm also really struggling with finding available time, so not sure what will happen yet.