Page 3 of 12 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Thread: 12V Socket for Fridges: clever ones?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    757
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFly
    What if you just isolate the plug end with a cable clamp or two down in the back corner?
    And that's exactly how you simplify something that I was making far too complicated.
    2008 Frontier
    2006 Fleetwood Neon

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Gig Harbor, WA (originally from Morenci, AZ)
    Posts
    1,300
    I agree with Teriann.

    Think about how Nissan would have wired it, if they built it. I guarantee it would not be a "cigarette lighter" socket (call it a power outlet if you want to).

    The location you have the socket, is not accessable for use by any other equipment. You won't be plugging in an air compressor, etc., so it won't matter what connector you use.

    This is what I would do:
    Move the plug-in-point, up closer to the fridge drawer, reducung the length of loose wire.

    Use one of the Weathertech connectors (get a heavy one from any vehicle in a junkyard). Cut the power cable and solder it all together.

    To be able to use the fridge in other vehicles, I would get two of the Weathertech connectors, and add the mating piece to the loose end of the cut cable. Or buy an extra power cable.

    As for the fan, it could be thermostat controlled, and enabled only when the fridge is turned on.
    Last edited by Photog; 07-16-2008 at 07:26 PM.
    Brian

    2004 Toyota 4Runner Sport, 3" OME lift, 255/75R17 Goodyears, Super Sliders, communications, GPS, Black Widow roof basket, Truck Vault, 400 watt inverter, Scion stereo with iPod cable. 2009 Roadtrek 190 with 5" lift.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    692
    Anderson plugs could be used as well.

    98 Lexus LX470
    85 Land Cruiser BJ70
    09 KK SportsRV

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    The Highest State
    Posts
    3,797
    Quote Originally Posted by ntsqd
    Now we're into a good candidate for one of the various electronics project boxes. Mount it flat to that rear wall with the wire & socket entering on the side(s). You can buy water resistant (proof?) project boxes from places like Allied Electronics or Newark. Might cruise those pages anyway, may be an existing option that will work for you right out of the box.

    The West Marine sourced locking items linked above are pretty nice parts. The socket will accept any normal plug without issue. The locking plug has a little rubber seal around it's base that engages the outer edge of the socket. It goes in like a normal plug, but is then is twisted a 1/4 turn to lock. Reverse to unlock. They are a major feature on the YJ from Hell, every socket and plug on the unit was one of these parts.
    This is pretty much how I put an outlet in the back of my truck, project box with a marine 12V outlet mounted on the bed rail under the lip of the WilderNest. Simple, lots of space for wiring future things into. Gaskets, grommets and silicone as necessary to provide waterproof-ness. Doesn't have to be expensive to be effective.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Chandler, Arizona
    Posts
    2,411
    Hmmm, I don't know. It's been a snowballing process to get to where I did: with the socket in the back of the compartment. If you could get up close and personal with my set up, you'd understand why I've got the plug on the inside of the back wall, and why I didn't cut to cord to hard-wire it. But there may be a possibility of moving the connection forward and onto one of the sides. But I I've been down that road when I first installed it. Snowball . . . now I'm here.

    However, I did recently add a tight cable clip to the cord. Good call.
    Mark Stephens
    AdventureParents.com

    Get a bicycle. You will not regret it. If you live.
    -- Mark Twain, Taming the Bicycle

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Scram Diego
    Posts
    4,977
    Quote Originally Posted by articulate
    Hmmm, I don't know. It's been a snowballing process to get to where I did: with the socket in the back of the compartment. If you could get up close and personal with my set up, you'd understand why I've got the plug on the inside of the back wall, and why I didn't cut to cord to hard-wire it. But there may be a possibility of moving the connection forward and onto one of the sides. But I I've been down that road when I first installed it. Snowball . . . now I'm here.

    However, I did recently add a tight cable clip to the cord. Good call.

    Aloha! Mark,

    While I was searching for you...........I also wondered why you didn't just hard wire with a switch! But it's not for me to say. You said what you wanted........so I tried to help.

    But here is the rub...............


    Warm Beer will Always dictate the Outcome!



    ............





    .......hehe


    .....long live ExPo!

  7. #27
    kcowyo's Avatar
    kcowyo is offline Expedition Portal Moderator ExPo Original
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Lander, Wyoming
    Posts
    5,199
    Quote Originally Posted by articulate
    Okay, now that we've swept out the trash (AH-HEM).....
    .......
    .
    .
    '97 Toyota T100 - some stuff and some stories....
    '85 Toyota FJ6O - fractal cruising

    currently listening to - Jamey Johnson "The Guitar Song"
    recommended reading - Into the Story by David Maraniss

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Scram Diego
    Posts
    4,977
    Quote Originally Posted by kcowyo
    .......
    .
    .



    ......................DUDE!







    .

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    1,514
    was at bass pro the other day looking at sockets for some trailer ideas
    and saw this one
    http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st..._SearchResults
    not sure if it could be anything close to what you are thinking ?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    3,050
    Food for thought:

    I find the idea that we are still using this 1950 legacy "Cigarette style" 12 volt connection ludicrous. Some connections should be twist-lock, and others tiny USB based on power draw.
    Pasquale - KE7GVY

    DesertDude Films, LLC <> DesertDude Music.com <> 110 Project Group, Inc

    "Taking the path less credentialed"

Page 3 of 12 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •