DIY Expedition trailer

[RunninRubicon]

I'd humbly recommend you attempt to keep the weight to a minimum. Most all trailers start life light and then we add this and that. Next you know, your draggin too much. Try life w/o the cross-braces. Use aluminum in construction of the galley were possible. 60% weight in front of the axle is an important therom to work from. But certainly sounds like one heck of a start. You can't beat the price!

[Grim Reaper]

I'd humbly recommend you attempt to keep the weight to a minimum. Most all trailers start life light and then we add this and that. Next you know, your draggin too much. Try life w/o the cross-braces. Use aluminum in construction of the galley were possible. 60% weight in front of the axle is an important therom to work from. But certainly sounds like one heck of a start. You can't beat the price!

Ohh yeah weight is a BIG concern. I have learned my lesson on that. My other trailer is too heavy to be pulled by this truck. Hence the reason I bought this trailer.

The skin on this is steel and it has issues beyond the wonderful paint. I have about decided that it would be a LOT easier to just skin it back to the framing. The exterior sheet is held on with TEK screws. I will have more issue getting them out then anything. Once the skin is off I can quickly clean and paint the frame.

Re skin it with between .032 -.050 pre-finished white or Bone (to match the parts I have) aluminum. I know at www.wrisco.com (local to me) I can get .032 Mill for about $32 for a 4x8 sheet. Pre coated white probably be under $50 a sheet. I figure buy the time I buy strippers and paint I would have $50-60 and 2-3 weekends.

I could skin the whole exterior with two sheets and 4 bends in a weekend. Probably take me longer to get the old skin off then the new. So I will probably be lighter then when I got it till I get the side gull wing doors and roof on. Both of those I have and they are also Aluminum.

The gull wing (think utility shell) doors are going to add LARGE holes in the sides. They are 44x 32 out side dimensions and will allow easy access to anything in the trailer from the sides and keep rain out and allow cross ventilation when camping. Once the new wheels are on it the top will be close to 6ft from my best guess.

The sheet steel sides are actually helping strengthen the trailer. I think it wise to add some structure back in once those holes are cut. Once you see a picture of the interior you will understand the need. It will not add a lot of weight but will add a lot of rigidity from the tip of the tongue to the axle.

I am debating skinning the inside with the same aluminum as exterior or 3/8’s ply on the bottom 16 inches and ¼ luan or combo of Aluminum on the rest of the interior for durability and to cover over the insulation. The 3/8s along the bottom would also help with strength as well if fastened properly.

I am going to try to keep it mostly empty inside so I can get cargo duty out of it in between trips. What does go in it will be easily removed...Chuck box fold up table etc. I am debating a fixed water tank or just a couple Scepter cans on the side in front of the wheel wells.

My original build was going to use four of the boxes in the first post of the thread. I think one of those will go on the tongue and have battery and recovery gear in it. 20lb LP tank on top of that. Sell off the other 3. That will assure I am always 60% or better weight to the nose even empty. Once I get the SOA done and the 235x75x15’s on it I can see how the ground clearance is. Hope to have enough so as to hang the spare tire in front of the axle again making sure we keep the tongue weight. Right now it has maybe 30-35lb on the tongue. I want something closer to 100-125lb.

I think I have the roof top tent figured out where it will be lite but that will be a project for later in the year.

[Rezarf <><]

Very Cool-

Lightwieght vs. Strength will always be your battle. I would make sure it stays together first, then think of how to keep it light.

Nothing quite like an ultra light broken trailer.

Drew

[RunninRubicon]

I concur with the therom of strength will carry you home. However, as I said before and I humbly submit it again. Strive to keep the weight low. Strength can be found through considered moves and materials. As I read it, it appears the man's got in hand. I look forward to view pic's when your done.

[Grim Reaper]

Made some head way on it the past few days. The Skin will be replaced with new aluminum sheet in a few weeks so just pretend you don't see the rust.

For an idea of the size...It is rough foot print is the same as a 1/4 on M416 ( http://vegasauto.net/m416.html military trailer ). Just 48 inches from floor to roof. It is just big enough inside for me to sleep on the floor. I will probably build a sleeping platform so I can store gear under the bed. Hang some mosquito netting on the side doors and it will be ready to camp.

Axle is 58 face to face. That's the same as the 4Runner that will pull it but it has to run a shallow offset rim because the body between the frame is a little wider (48) then the 4Runner (42). When the axle gets swapped it will be for a 60-62inch axle so that it can run the deep offset wheels the truck runs. Would have preferred it track the same as the truck but not possible unless I got to a 3.5 back set on the 4Runner. That would cause clearance problems on the truck so this will be the most cost effective route.

I flipped the axle from on top of the springs to under the springs for some lift so I don't have to use a drop draw bar to pull it.

Got the side doors mounted this week. Got the top of the body/frame repaired and ready to support anything I can dream of. For right now it will just have a rack like a ladder rack on a van. Later down the road I will make the flip open top. I did already add the braces and add the structure for it. I can walk on the roof no problem.

When I replace the skin the full frame will be cleaned and painted. You will notice a vertical member in the side door opening. That will be gone hopefully tomorrow. Just haven't cut it out and added in the lower bar along the bottom of the door opening yet.

The hitch is short and makes it really hard to back. I pan to swap out that hitch for a longer A-Frame set up. I think I will also use a reciever and make the hitch where I can slide it out when needed to make backing easy and pull it tight to make it draft better on the hwy. The axle will be moved forward a couple inches and the fenders replaced with a larger radius to accomodate larger tires when the hitch is swapped. Its foot print will be closer to the Adventrue trailer with a storage box on the tongue at that point.

Right now funds are tight ($450 vet bill this week ) so it will stay on 5 lugs for now. I have a set of Mags that will go on it tomorrow with better tires till I can swing the axle.

Tomorrow after work I hook it to my truck and run it down to my buddies shop to mount the tires on the rims. Drag it to work Friday to pick up banquet tables and a canopy for a blood drive on Saturday. Pack it full of stuff Friday night go about 50 miles to the location of the blood drive Saturday morning. Then home and back to work Monday to drop off the tables and canopy. I figure I will put about 250-300 miles on it in the next few days. Good way to break it in.

[Rezarf <><]

Looking good Grimmy!

I like the kickout doors on the side, where did you source those?

really cool bud!

Drew

[Grim Reaper]

They were on a stand alone equipment box that my company Decomed. I bought it off the scrap dealer that collects our Decom gear. the sides, front and front 44 inches of the roof is the cabinet. I cut it in half and bolted it to the trailer. Trying to find somebody I know that TIG's to get them to weld the seam where they butt. If I cant find anybody I will make a 2 inch wide plate and use some Butyl sealant to seal the seam.

[Grim Reaper]

Been tinkering on it some more. Finished the framing in for the side doors. Got the overhead light mounted. Made the roof rack and the canopy supports. The rack looks much heavier then it is. I can handle it rather easy. The material is relatively thin wall 1.5x1.5 box. I would guess it weighs maybe 50lb. It ended up being MUCH stronger then I thought. It looks a little odd the way the cross bars are done but because the side doors open prone of the roof I had to hand the front crossbar off the front to allow room to open that Neccesitated the design of the floor.
The two end upper cross bars (not shown in these pictures) pop off and then I can hang them out to the sides to tie off the canopy to.

I am using a 12x15 Silver Tarp for the Canopy There is a cross bar that is about 36 inches tall that has a receiver just over the back door to support the canopy and allow things to be stored on the roof of the trailer at camp and still stay dry.

I am debating putting 4 inch wide Aluminum Slats on the rack. The roof is plenty sturdy for gear to ride directly on it but I am thinking if I keep it up on the rack it would make tarping it easier with less worry about water being driven under the tarp on the roof soaking stuff. The second thought is that would create shade and air space that might keep the inside cooler in the summer sun.

Have to get the full set up pictures tomorrow but here are some progress shots.

Of course I get paint on the roof rack and the bottom falls out.

Still have not picked up the new skin for it. Fenders I am still up in the air about so Till I sort them out I will just make dew with the Crusty skin. It stays dry inside so no hurry.

The fenders on it are not in to bad of shape and sturdy enough for me to stand on but Not really as wide as I would like. I would like flat top fenders so that things can be set on them. I also need to move the axle forward about 2-4 inches but that will wait for now while I look around to see what sort of Fenders are available. I will probably run it as is till October.

Tomorrow I need to run by a Buddies that has some steel for me that sounds like it will be just what I need to make my new A-Frame Extendable Hitch. Then I can get the battery out from inside and on the tongue.

I plan to mount some Jerry cans on either side for my Water cans. I may also incorporate a Ladder that will tie into the Jerry can mounts to make it easy to load the roof.

[Rezarf <><]

Looking good Grim!

Again, what is the rack up top for? Storage or mounting a tent to? I thought you would sleeping inside this thing is that right?

Very good progress, I think that the tongue extensions and the fenders will round your build out really nicely!

Keep it coming man, it looks great!

Rezarf <><

[Grim Reaper]

Yes I do plan to sleep in it.

The goal has always been to get multiple use out of the trailer. The rack is 48.5 inches between the rails and 6ft long. That will allow me to haul ply wood, Steel whatever I need that is too big to fit in it or the 4Runner. The trailer actually hauled the steel home that built the rack just strapped to the top on a rubber pad to keep it from sliding.

The Metal was the transport crates for Yamaha PWC. Yamaha is in the next warehouse to the one IU work in. They toss these things. They love it when people haul them off so they don't have too.

Right now I still have only about $250-275 in the whole thing since I have been savaging stuff to build it. Once I buy the axle I want then it will get some cash. My original Goal was $1500 but I think I may well make it under $1k since I have been so fortunate to get so much useful parts for free!