Sorry, my mistake.
Last edited by alan; 01-26-2009 at 01:59 AM.
Finally received a sample rim today, so I had to try it!
Alan, Who made these again? Very interested to know. We're going through the motions of getting wheels made overseas at the moment for the new 6 stud 4x4Canters and the new 4x4 Euro IV NPS Isuzu. We 're getting them fully ISO tested like the genuine rims. Apparantly the only ISO testing machine in Oz is owned by ROH and won't test anything bigger than a car rim. We are hoping to have them tested / rated way above what's needed for the 6 ton GVM.
Anyway, the rims will be cheap enough and the testing isn't too expensive but the brake test data for the FG140 and NPS on single rear wheels is really hefty. Last time we had to hire an airstrip in Maryborough for 3 days and flat spotted 2 sets of 20 inch offroad tyres at $750 each tyre and an engineer with all the fifth wheel and inertia telemetry gear (oh and the guy to follow us down the strip to keep an eye out for aircraft wanting to land). So it was a small fortune but with buses everything has to be done absolutely by the book.
You're lucky you're under the 4.5 ton because over that and the DoT guys can get very picky over the smallest things.
What was you truck used for before you bought it?
I had the rim made by a company in China, it's taken months of emails and time and the shipping of standard rims to China to get this far, but I enjoy sourcing products from overseas, it is part of my business, so I am happy to help your Boss if he wishes to contact me.
I tried the rim on the back today and took some quick measurements, the difference between the front and back tracks is only maybe 2-4mm tops, so I am pretty happy with the results! and it looks great!
The Canter I originally bought of Ebay, and got ripped off, I was told it was in good condition no rust runs well etc, got it shipped to Victoria from Sydney and found it was full of rust, stress cracks in the cab, cracks in the chassis and rust between the chassis rail joints, I was not happy! so I could not decide what to do with it, then I discovered the bigger rims were so expensive, then I thought if I can get them made cheaper I would go ahead and start the project, so this is what is happening.
It was originally a service vehicle for a earthmoving company from what I can tell, it was well used and abused, the original heavy steel tray was rigidly u bolted to the chassis, which was not good for it, I have just purchased a really good second hand cab which also has air/con so thats a bonus, another fuel tank for the other side, and 2 electric winches 15,000Ib for the front and a 10,000Ib for the rear, at the moment I am removing all chassis rivets to dismantle chassis and carry out repairs, as Mitsubishi tell me they won't sell main chassis rail sections, only cross members.
Thanks Alan, Could you PM me your contact number? Also did you get my PM about the guy in the US with the 75 Series?so I am happy to help your Boss if he wishes to contact me.
I've got an exact formula that I worked out for calculating offset when the front wheel is mounted one way and the rear is on the oppposite way. I'm sure you did the same calculations but if they followed your measurements and the offset is as you say, it is only 1 or 2 mm out on each wheel. I don't think you could complain too much as long as they balance up alright.the difference between the front and back tracks is only maybe 2-4mm tops, so I am pretty happy with the results! and it looks great!
Ah yes my favourite pastime. No easy way around that. Big sledgy or alot of drilling. Same pain either way. Have you tried all the wreckers for chassis rails or aren't they too bad?at the moment I am removing all chassis rivets to dismantle chassis and carry out repairs,
There's a good wrecker in Brisbane that has a lot of Canter stuff. Don't know the name off hand but I could get it easy enough, if you want. We mainly do new trucks or fabricate our own gear. Even fabricate our own cross members if we have too but of course we are licensed to do that sort of work without any DoT dramas.
Cheap wheels from China has me interested.
In my travels I have had too many punctures and have never been sure where to put the blame.
Is it tyres (Wranglers TG) not up to the full 5 tonne,
When I get stuck in sand and have let the pressure down is it the rims with tube, letting sand in between the tyre and the tube and giving me the puncture a few 1000km later.
There is usually no evidence of a sharp object to blame it on.
Can you elaborate on why a rigidly mounted tray was bad for the frame? There are couple of people on here with rigidly attached boxes of one kind or another.
From what I can see it has a crack in the same area where Doug's cracked, during the week I will take some pic's and post them.
I will probably bring in about 60 rims only, so if anyone wants some let me know.
I know I've seen several mentions from the guys from OZ about common failure points on the chassis for the FGs that are used to run the beaches, etc., in the commercial tourist trade.
The OZ fleet certainly has several orders of magnitude more kilometers experience with their fleets of FGs than all of us put together with our personal trucks based out of North America.
I think between their experiences with stress cracks, corrosion points, etc., and what we can learn from our FG frame, we could start to build a knowledge base of known challenges and things to avoid in design and construction.
It would be great to put all that together into one coherent thread so people looking for that data in the future could find it without hours of searching.