Expedition spare parts for FJ Cruiser.

[EricGagne]

First post here, I like the place.

I was wondering if anyone here ever went on an expedition with a FJ Cruiser. What spare parts would you most likely bring with you ?

[BriansFJ]

1leglance just did his Continental Divide expedition in an awesome FJ. He'd be a good one to ask. Lance?

[teotwaki]

May be some duplication ( I just pasted with no editing) but it should give you some ideas based on what you will be driving through. You'll need tools too

To take for sure:
-----------------
Upper and lower radiator hoses - prone to getting hit by rocks
Epoxy for radiator (Waterweld)
Serpentine Belt - prone to getting hit by rocks
Fuel Injector cleaner - in case of bad fuel
CV Axle, R & L seals - CV boot can shred, axle can break
Spare Keys - forgetful...
Tire fix kit - most likely failure
U-Joints - front & rear
brake pads - wear part, we'll be driving 50k+ miles
fuses

Filters:
--------
Air filter
Fuel filter
Oil Filter

Fluids:
-------
Gear Oil
Engine Oil
Brake Fluid
touch up paint

Leave at home:
--------------
Starter Motor
Water Pump
OME bushings
Alternator
Idler Pullies 1,2,3
Cigarette lighter jumper cable (Useless?)
Intake Gasket - have to remove the intake to do anything to the engine...
Cabin Filter


from another forum dedicated to the Toyota 120 Platform (FJC, 4Runner, Tacoma)

Basic recovery and other equipment (MUST HAVE)
To take with on every trip (even day and easy trip) and even for beginners
- Spare key somewhere in or on the truck (more important for more remote trips)
- Fire extinguisher and first aid kit (should always be in the truck)
- Good quality tow strap at least 2"x30', example http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/4runnertowstrap.htm
- At least 2 x D Ring shackles (3/4" Heavy duty, also check recovery points on truck)
- Full size spare, jack, wheelnut wrench, wheel lock "key" and all other tools to swap the spare on your truck, check the tools and spare before you leave.
- Tire pressure gauge with deflator and/or tire deflator(s)
- Small compressor (capable of airing up truck tires like the MV50) or other way of airing up like CO2
- Communication with other trucks, FRS, CB or HAM pending on group
- Basic hand tools like wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers,
- Duct tape
- Gal or so of water (drinkable in a pinch)
- Trash bags
- Gloves and some rags
- Zip ties in assorted lengths and widths, as well as a few few extra big ones
- Shovel (compact one would be better than nothing in a pinch)
- Flashlight(s) (with spare abtteries, ideally add a headlamp as well)

Intermediate recovery and other equipment
When doing moderate difficulty trails and more remote
- Basic kit plus items below
- Additional tow straps preferably 3"x30' and high capacity (see link above)
- Snatch strap of 30' (for mud and bogged down recoveries)
- 1-2 more D rings shacles (3/4")
- For trucks without HD rear bumper, a hitch reciever with recovery shackle mount (like Warn)
- Tire repair kit
- Spare tire valve cores, tool to remove/replace, spare valve caps
- Spare fuses (including the bigger fuses see hardcore below)
- Electrical tape and some isolated electrical wire
- Wire, pliers and sidecutters to tie up components in a pinch
- Hi-lift (especially useful with sliders, also make sure it is properly secured for driving)
- Hi-lift base plate, also a Liftmate (tire), bumper adpater (if ARB) and slider adapter can be handy
- More extensive list of hand tools
- More water
- Bungee cords
- Assortment of bolts and nuts (metric OEM stuff and non metric aftermarket stuff) (Check shock mounts and common other areas like skids, etc)
- Small Digital Volt/Ohm/Amp multimeter

So here goes:
- Intermediate kit plus listed below
- Field repair guide (see FSM for critical components copies and TQ settings)
- 2+ HD Jack stands (don't want a to work on a tippy trucl on hi-lifts again)
- Chain with hooks on the ends to tie up axles, etc.
- Ratchet straps for add loose pieces (cargo or truck)
- Loctite blue and red compound
- Loctite locweld or similar liquid metal bond (fast curing needed)
- Gasket maker
- Complete spare front CV axle assembly
- 35MM socket and HD TQ wrench
- Breaker bar, big srewdriver, circlip removal pliers and big hammer
- Spare CV axle circlip (diff side) and diff oil seal
- Spare tie-rod and tie rod end
- Tie-rod and ball joint puller
- Spare Rear driveshaft (tranny to diff)
- Only in very extreme cases spare rear 3rd and sideshafts (leadfoot rockhopping)
- Spare relays for Starter, EFI, ABS SOL, Fuel pump, Headlamps, Ignition, Power relay (will get part #s, see attached relayloc pdf)
- Spare HD fuses 140A altenator and assortment of HD 30,40 and 50A fuses. (mentioned again)
- Spare rear shocks (only if you don't have HD remote res or monotube shocks) and fitting hardware (includign OEM bolts) (Only for heavy load long distance, remote trips)
- Spare brake lines (front and rear)
- Brake fluid 2-4 small botttles
- Diff fluid 3 Qts or more
- Tranny fluid 3-4 Qts
- Engine Oil 5-6 Qts
- Wheel bearing type grease
- Trail cleanup kit for oil spills, etc
- Oil drain catcher
- Small gas soldering iron with solder (or 12V or 110V if you have an inverter)
- Hand cleaner, lots of spare rags, latex or rubber gloves (if you dont like the smell of grease and oil)
- Extensive set of hand tools, including wrenches and socket sets, screwdrivers, adjustabel wrenches and vice grips, pliers, side cutter, longnose pliers, knifes.
- Impact wrench can be handy with regulated CO2

Must get electrical spares:
Starter relay - 28300-28010
140A Fusable link - 90982-08286
ABS and TRAC relay - 88263-24020

The following you can raid something else for a spare:
(But still good to get IMHO, maybe get one every once in a while)
Fuel pump relay (also for other functions) - 90084-98032
Ignition relay (amd others) - 90987-02025
30A Fuse link - 90982-08283
40A Fuse Link - 90982-08281
50A Fuse link - 90982-08282


Mechanical spares:
The part # might have been mentioned somewhere else (but just for completeness sake.
CV axle assembly - 43430-60060
Outer-Tierod - 45046-39505
Inner-Tierod - 45503-39265
Tierod boot - 45535-26030
Left front diff seal - 90311-47012
Right front diff seal - 90311-47013

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1516

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Offroaders_Checklist.htm

[1leglance]

the above post has so much quality that I would not shame myself by trying to add anything
Matter of fact I will print it out for my next long trip...

Our Continental Divide Expedition took place here in the USA with 2 other rigs so we didn't go crazy on spare parts since we were never more than a day from a NAPA type place...even in the littlest town.

[EricGagne]

Teotwaki, your list is incredibly exhaustive, there's tons of items I would never have thought of, especially since I've never been on any expedition before and my FJ is my first 4x4.

Your post is very useful and I saved a copy of that list but I realize my question wasn't clear. What I meant is what spare parts that are specific to the FJ Cruiser should one bring on any expedition.

In other words, what are the FJ's weak points and what is most likely to break on it. I am already aware of certain items like the Lower Links which you should not only carry replacement but change for better stock before doing anything rough or going into uncharted territories.

But besides lower links, what else is fragile or prone to break on the FJ, I think it would be wise to bring at least one replacement rear coil spring and shock. Should I also carry 1 (or even 2) pre-assembled front coil/shock assembly ? If I broke one, would it be possible to replace it in the field ?

That's the kind of questions I have. I'm planning a short (10 days or so) expedition next year in places where's there is civilization nearby but can't be accessed by any road, people and merchandise usually get there by plane and train.

The whole run, including highways, small roads and gravel roads will be about 3000 miles but I will probably be 4 or 5 days in the woods with not roads nearby.

I'm a bit concerned about this because the FJ is a very recent vehicle and it hasn't proved itself for over 50 years like Land Cruisers. I'm trying to learn what is known to be fragile and to be prepared if I break anything.

[maxama10]

There are really only a few members here with FJ's, as far as I know.

So as I don't know much about the FJ:

You might want to check out http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/member-build-ups/ and maybe PM uphill. I know he's got quite the extensive build and is also a member here but I haven't seen him too recently.

Here is Uphill's Scorpion
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...-scorpion.html

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...off-road-tech/

also
http://ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay....prune=-1&f=139



in fact he even goes to say:
I just returned from a run in the Death Valley area (Ballarat/Panamint Range) with POKERDAWG and others. He asked me to post my opinion on mods for "the road less traveled". What order? I know that everybody has a different opinion on the subject. This is only mine. What is the "road less traveled"? It's an expedition concept that is mild to wild because you NEVER know what you're going to run into. Many unimproved roads change with every rain storm so the trip that you thought was going to be an easy one can suddenly turn into a challenging run.

So my philosophy is "getting home". The Scorpion was modified not to be glamorous or make a statement but to get me home at the end of the day.

In order:

(1) Rear lower control arms and leading edge armor plates to protect them. The OEM arms are weak. One good strike on a rock and you can break them. If you break one, you're screwed. You can disconnect a front or rear drive shaft and you can play games with other "getting home" magic, but once you've lost a lower rear, you're not going anywhere.
Recommended: MAN-A-FRE rear lower control arms with bushings. They're heavy duty (most unlikely to break), they are not adjustable because you don't need adjustable rear lower control arms (IMO) and MAF stands behind their products. US$299.00 for the rear lower control
arms. TLC Trailing Arm Skid US$90.00

then goes on about recovery gear and armor

[maxama10]

TIE ROD ISSUE

I suspect that for many who are running near-stock rigs this won't be an issue but those of us who are exceeding Toyota's design parameters need to at least pay attention.

I ran the Kokopelli Trail with TCAO, JESHUA, FROGEYE, etc. last week. At one point I hit a dip a bit "hard". Thereafter I had some "squirly" steering, as if I'd removed the front sway bar. I stopped and looked at the front end, checked for obvious problems and didn't see any. DRAGON and SHADOW-WARRIOR walked up and I ran it past them. We had dipped into some gooey mud a half mile previously and we counseled that it might have something to do with mud in the wheel.

The steering was still "wrong" and all the way home, there was wandering, erratic steering on the highway. It still felt loose. Not linkage loose, just loose. Somehow wrong.

I'll make a longer story short. The tie rods weren't bent but the inner ends of the tie rods were shot. Therefore the erratic wandering track on the highway.

The explanation is straight forward. I have wazoo Icon suspension, Light Racing jounce shocks, and run the truck with heavier wheels and tires. The tie rods are the weak link in the system. They're stock. Modifying this part and that part without completely redesigning the vehicle cause these sorts of maintenance issues.

I suggest you check the tie rods every so often. Mine survived 32K miles and then gave up the ghost.

[1leglance]

One lesson I learned the hard way is at least easy to fix....
The factory sway bar has some metal collars on the inside of the frame bushings
I will have to go take a pic of the location to show you...
well they will loosen and move allowing the sway bar to move over into the front coil spring and then the link breaks tearing up your cv boot.
There are a number of fixes mentioned on the fjcruiserforums.com but the basic idea is something that keeps the bar from moving.
Band clamps, specially heavy duty bar collars from McMaster Carr or whoever....search and check into it.

Other than that take an extra air filter, serp belt, and hit the road, you are in a fairly new rig that should do fine.

[teotwaki]

Right at the end of the list I posted are FJ/Taco/4Runner specific parts and Toyota part numbers for the front CV axles and tierod bits. You'd want to carry at least one axle plus both seals.

Subsequent posts were spot on about the front swaybar collars and rear lower control arms. Fix those weak spots before you venture far into the outback. Better armor (skidplates) will also save you grief down the trail.