To Aussie lock the XJ or not

[cnskate]

I'd lock to get a locker for my XJ with 3" OME lift and 30" BFG AT's. It would be nice to be able to crawl up steep climbs and putt over obstacles instead of having to rely on momentum and the risks that entails.
An ARB air locker would be my first choice. It's proven, I could flip it off in the snow and all those other times when 4wd is needed but not with a locker. It's also probably about $1500 installed. That's like two big trips worth of gas money, and I didn't pay much more than that for the car itself.
I could install an Aussie front locker in the front Dana 30 myself for about $200. I wouldn't notice it in 2wd, but I would always be locked in 4wd. For expedition type travel, would I really regret this? More strain on the drivetrain, and really hard to maneuver tight turns in 4wd would be minuses that I could think of.

[madizell]

Personally, I think you would regret having to deal with a locked front end in any but extreme circumstances. I use the front locker so rarely it is almost surplus baggage unless I am in really deep stuff, and never when driving expo style. I would skip the front locker entirely, or if you want something up front that you can live with, get a Detroit True Track. I have used one off road extensively in a Dana 30/CJ-7 and it enhanced driving noticeably and never gave me steering issues.

[97 zj steve]

you do lose some turning in 4wd but not as much as you might think..3 of my friends have the aussie in the front and it helps them tons on steep hill climbs were it takes me maybe 2-3 tires with momentum were if i had a locker id more or less crawl it until the end and spin the tires on up...they are cheap enough and if you can do it urself its great..i plan on it at some point

[cnskate]

I can't buy an Aussie for the rear because I have the Chrysler 8.25. Is the True Trak a limited slip? Easy installation?

[juicexj24]

I run an Aussie in my front D30 and an ARB in the rear D44. There isn't any issues on the highway with it and you would never know it's there unless you turn pretty tight. I have an NP242 Select Trac t-case with the full time setting. I don't like the full lockers/case lockers/lunch boxes in the rear because of the popping and noise that they produce. Now I don't drive my XJ everyday anymore but I don't have a problem driving it around town/highway or mainly on the trail.

Juice

[BigAl]

I'd check the junkyards/classifieds for an entire axle with factory limited slip and the same gear ratio. Should be less than $300, around me ~$100.

[kjp98TJ]

been running a lockrite in my front 30 (TJ) for about 5 years, with 33's and 35's. no issues to date, summer or winter driving.

[madizell]

I can't buy an Aussie for the rear because I have the Chrysler 8.25. Is the True Track a limited slip? Easy installation?

The True Track is a limited slip device using gears, not clutches or cones, so there are no wear issues to speak of, it is very smooth and positive, and if I recall correctly, you don't need to use special diff lube. Initially, I installed one of these in the front D30 on the CJ-7 and noticed an immediate improvement in off road traction, especially in deep sand, including a benefit on the open diff AMC20 rear because the driveline, being gear driven, is limited to the speed of the driven wheel. It tended to slow down the entire driveline's tendency to lose traction due to wheel spin. It was not as effective as a locker would have been, but it also did not effect the front steering in any way at all.

The same tendency to control a driveline with a single device is shown with a rear locker only, in that with the rear locked, the front driveline is also speed limited to the rear wheel with traction. There can also be a tendency to understeer with a rear locker only, but the effect is far less difficult to deal with, and places no strain on the steering components. If you have to lock (not LSD) one or the other axle, the rear is far easier to live with and will give you the greatest benefit.

As for limiting turn radius and other drive issues with a front locker, all of them will limit and bind the front end, including automatic lockers. Automatic lockers will ratchet during a turn to allow one wheel to run faster than the other, but only on solid or uniform surfaces with fair to good traction and only if you are not under firm power. Under power, the automatic locker stays locked, mimicking a spool, and the tires will fight each other because they will turn at the same speed regardless. One tire will usually track the ground, the other will scuff or spin. This binding causes a lot of feedback in the steering and opens up your turn radius like you won't believe. It puts a great deal of pressure on your power steering, and if you are unfortunate enough to have manual steering, you will feel the strain.

The degree to which you will have to fight with a front locker depends on tires and terrain. I note that there are comments that they are not all that bad, but this is a matter of degree and perspective. Will you notice a front locker? Absolutely when using 4WD. They are anything but invisible.

As for use in winter, having lived in the Great White North for 26 years, I would suggest most humbly that you don't try driving a locked vehicle in winter on icy roads. Not that it can't be done. It can. But a locked axle, when tires break loose, will take you downhill, wherever that is, or in the direction of your greatest momentum, all without your permission. Lockers and icy roads are simply dangerous, and require a great deal of attention. Any locker, automatic or otherwise, WILL cause one or the other tire on a locked axle to skid in a turn on icy roads. It has to when there is not sufficient traction available to cause the auto locker to ratchet. Once traction is lost on one tire, all you have left is the other, and as they say, it is all downhill from there. I will only rarely drive a 4WD vehicle in 4WD on snow and ice roads, never locked, and always with a lot of caution. AWD is entirely different. 90% of the vehicles I ever saw upside down in the ditch in Alaska were 4WD vehicles. It is not a coincidence.

Your question, though, is whether you will benefit in expo driving from a front locker. I have to day I doubt it. A rear locker would be far more effective, and even if the model you want is not available for your axle, another brand will be.

As for ease of installation, the True Track replaces your carrier, so it requires a reset of ring and pinion. It is not a drop-in device, and unless you are comfortable with setting up gears, not recommended for the DIY guy.

[cnskate]

Thanks for all the info. I've heard about lockers and snow. Ya, I probably should just save up for that ARB, sigh.

[IH8RDS]

I run ARBs front and rear now, but before that I had a power trax no-slip in the rear. Very limited selection for the 8.25. You might want to look into the 8.8. Most come stock with 4.10 gears, a limited slip and disk brakes. Plus there are allot more locker choices. But that is a whole different can of worms.

IMHO Buy a no-slip for the rear, install it yourself and you wont be disappointed. Later down the road when you upgrade you can make back usually 2/3 of the purchase price. They hold there value pretty good.