Thread: CJ / Yj chassis body question

  1. #1
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    Default CJ / Yj chassis body question

    Ok so as you guys know I have been considering scratch building a Jeep Scrambler. I see that he YJ hs an ARB bumper option however there is no listing of the CJ series. I have been under the impression that the CJ and YJ are really the same under a slightly different body. So will a YJ ARB bullbar bolt up to a CJ? If not would it be something of major or minor modification. Also I understand that both bodies are really the same width so I assume that the width of the arb would not be an issue or am I wrong?

    Please excuse my ignorance on the topic I have only worked on tj models and have not been intimate with any of the others yet. This is part of my project research.

  2. #2
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    CJ, YJ and TJ bodies are all the same width.

    The problem you are going to have using a YJ bumper on a CJ is that the frame spacing and framerail size is different.

    Could you use a YJ bumper on a CJ? Yes.....BUT the mounts would need to be modified.

    HTH

  3. #3
    The CJ tub and the YJ tub are identical, and will swap back and forth. If there is a body mount location difference, I don't know about it, and it would not be difficult to alter body mounts, anyway. As far as I know, the front clips will interchange, but as mentioned, the frame rails are not the same, so new mounts would be needed to mount YJ bumpers to CJ frames. But...

    The real difference is in the chassis. The CJ is weaker all around, so if you have a choice, use the YJ frame. Much stronger. Also, the YJ tub was factory galvanized, and so is far less prone to rust. My choice would be to build the CJ-style Scrambler using YJ frame and tub (or an aftermarket Scrambler tub), and otherwise CJ body components. If you also have one of the MPFI 4.0L motors, use it over earlier motors. The CJ Dana 30 axle is easier to live with because it did not use an axle disconnect, but used locking hubs instead, and should be strong enough for most purposes. It can easily be upgraded to handle V-8 power. Use a Dana 44 or better in the rear, which are stronger than the AMC 20 or Dana 35. If you have the Dana 300 T-case, use it. I would avoid most of the manual transmissions that came in the CJ series, including the T-4 and T-5 BW units, as they are a bit under-built. Mating a better 4 or 5 speed is simple these days.
    Last edited by madizell; 09-03-2008 at 09:13 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by madizell
    The CJ Dana 30 axle is easier to live with because it did not use an axle disconnect, but used locking hubs instead, and should be strong enough for most purposes.
    I'd take the non-disconnect YJ axle over the CJ axle.

    It is wider and is high pinion.

    IIRC `91 and up will be non-disconnect.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Root Moose
    I'd take the non-disconnect YJ axle over the CJ axle.

    It is wider and is high pinion.

    IIRC `91 and up will be non-disconnect.
    Not sure what you mean by a YJ non-disconnect axle. All US-spec YJs had a vacuum disconnect on the front axle.

  6. #6
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    I think, for the better of the group, we better specify that we're talking about CJ7 and YJs here. The other CJs are a whole other story. If I tried to put my CJ2A tub on my YJ frame I'd have a lot of work to do
    2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited - daily driver / expo rig
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepN95YJ
    Not sure what you mean by a YJ non-disconnect axle. All US-spec YJs had a vacuum disconnect on the front axle.
    I stand corrected, I've got something confused in my brain pan obviously.

    At any rate, I'd still avoid the CJ7 axle. A IH Scout Dana 44 is about 60.5" wide and passenger side differential.

    Or run a non-disco HP Dana 30 out of a XJ (driver's side differential). Convert the axle to leafs or link it using the TNT kit.

  8. #8
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    Since we've digressed to axles, I'll mention a nuance that I don't think should be ignored. You really do not want the bolt-on style locking hubs that typically come on CJ/YJ wheel hubs. You want wheel hubs that accept the spline-drive style of locking hub. GM's and Fords (no info on Dodges) used this style starting in the 70's sometime. Unlike the Aisin hubs used on Toyota's, the Warn etc. bolt-on locking hubs do not use the infernal cone washers, and as a result are nearly always in some state of semi-looseness. There are partial solutions, but there is no cure.
    Much easier to just start out with the superior design.
    I used to swerve around my hallucinations, now I drive right through them.

  9. #9
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    Wow that got intoa bunch of stuff quick. Tent plans are a TDC chassis with an aqualu tub. Planning a d44 rear but have not decided d30 or d44 for the front but wa leaing d 44 since you never know what the future holds. I was planning to use a d 300 transfer case and some kind of upgraded 5 speed like an nv 4500.

    I figured there would be some kind of difference in the yj cj chassis so now I know. Thanks

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