Corey's 2007 FJ Cruiser built for expedtion/overland, & daily driver
I have three identical build threads on three other forums that I started all the same day, July the 25th of 2006.
For the full thread from the beginning, here it is on YotaTech.
It would be to hard to copy it all here, so I will condense this and list some of the mods, then continue to update this when I do the others.
Using Streakerfreak's format to list the mods.
All off my mods are also listed on my website in my sig below, and here is a direct link to the mods.
You need Flash installed, as my table of contents is Flash driven.
Model: FJ Cruiser
Color: Titanium Silver
Engine: 4.0 V6
Trans: 5 speed automatic
Modifications & Additions:
* Bentup rock sliderz
* Cobra 29 Nightwatch CB radio, Firestik II 4’ antenna, and serial # 6 Bandi mount
* Cargobox that was made for my ’91 4Runner, but fits the FJ just fine.
* Powertank 10 lb model
* Lund Vent Visors, in channel ones
* Maglite installation
* Toyota high pitched horn to accompany the stock one
* ARB bumper, IPF foglamps, OME lift (heavy duty up front, medium duty back aft), Warn XD9000 winch, Winchline’s synthetic winch line and safety thimble.
* Inchworm elocker guard
* Ramsey wireless winch control
* Ellis Precision custom battery hold down bracket
* Magnaflow 11226 muffler hooked to stock pipe
* Pioneer AVIC-D3 headunit with DVD navigation, Focal 165v2 component speakers, Alpine PDX-4.100 amp, Infinity Kappa 3.27f rear speakers
* ARB fridge/freezer
* Custom 12v Bluesea fusebox and dual 12v plugs for 12v power anytime
* Dick Cepek Mountain Cat mud tires sized at 285x70x17 mounted to Pro Comp 7089 wheels
* Hi-lift jack, and Hi-Lift Handle-All, four tools in one (shovel, axe, pick axe, sledge hammer)
* Fourtrek Hi-Lift mounts mounted to the ARB bumper
* Halguard HG250R fire extinguisher (clean agent, safe for electronics)
* Kidde fire extinguisher for other types of fires outside of the vehicle
* Total Chaos upper control arms
* Dual battery setup
* Springtail M-Packs and rack
* Safari snorkel
* Maggiolina AirLand medium roof top tent
* Camping Lab awning
Below are a few pictures.
Stock, the day I brought it home, and one of the hottest days of the year, near 100 that day.
Did not stay stock for long, the old cargobox from the '91 4Runner was in the next day along with my Powertank.
I customized the stock rack to hold my axe and shovel.
While it worked out great, I later switched to Fourtreks mounts on the rear of the rack.
However I do not have them up there anymore, I am now using the Hi-Lift Handle-All.
It stows behind my seat full time in its bag.
Less of a fuss putting the other axe and shovel on the roof for a run.
I mounted the Hi-Lift to the stock rack via Fourtrek mounts also.
However later I moved the Hi-Lift to the front of the ARB bumper as seen further down in this thread.
Pioneer AVIC-D3 DVD navigation head unit with iPod, Sirius support.
Dual 12v plugs in the rear live full time via Deep BlueSea fuse box.
Total Chaos upper control arms.
Dual battery setup.
Last edited by Corey; 11-24-2010 at 06:10 PM.
Reason: Added a link to the beginning of my build on YotaTech
Switch to switch dual battery mode, and lights to the right of the switch to let you know which mode you are in.
Springtail M-Packs and rack for the rear door.
Maggiolina AirLand medium roof top tent.
This picture shows the Safari snorkel, Fourtrek Hi-Lift mounts, Bentup sliderz, Procomp 7089 wheels, and Mountaincat mud tires sized at 285x70x17.
Camping lab awning.
The ARB fridge use to be on the cargobox, but I moved it behind the drivers seat after taking out my rear seats.
This opened up the area to stow camping gear, and makes it easier to access the fridge too.
KC0UFO on 146.520
2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
Nice looking rig.
1) What purpose do the short cables on the drawer system serve?
2) When are we going to see that truck get dirty?
Originally Posted by tdesanto
1. The cables prevent the drawers from sliding backwards when you accelerate.
When I first had the box in hte '91 4Runner, whenever I took off from a stop, they would slide out and hit the back of the tailgate.
They have pins on the end of the cable that goes through the top of the box and into the side of the drawers.
2. It gets dirty, but have not wheeled it as of late this year with the tent on top.
Goal is to get the tent lowered via new rack setup so the center of gravity makes the rig more stable.
Nice FJ!! Did you win the lottery? Or are you some kind of a millionaire!
Man I am so jealous!
He he, thanks.
Nope, I work for Boeing, very good salary.
ARB Fridge Rehinged 9-26-2008
First I had the fridge on top of the cargobox, then I moved it to behind the drivers seat as seen in a previous update in my buildup thread before I started this one here at Expo.
It is much easier to get to the contents of the fridge now, but I still could not lift the lid up all the way, and I had to hold it open with one hand.
On my trip to Mt. Rainier in August, it was a PITA to have to hold the lid open with one hand, and move the contents with the other hand.
Awhile back I came upon a thread on IH8MUDs forum about relocating the hinges so the lid will open from the side.
The creator of the thread ended up putting together a kit so one does not have to hunt around for the parts.
The kit arrived today, and I could not wait to dig in on another project.
Total time was around a half hour or so.
While the instructions do not call for drilling a pilot hole for the self tapping screws supplied, I did drill a small 7/64th pilot hole.
I was careful to not drill into far.
I first put the hinge in place, and I went back in 1.5" from each end of the fridge to center the hinges.
I marked one hole with a felt pen, then drilled it.
I then put the hinge in place and used the 18v drill to put in the new screw.
Once it was in and tight, I then drilled one hole at a time and repeated with the self tapping screws.
So in other words, I did not drill all four pilot holes at once.
Once the hinges were in place, I then took out the top screws I had just put in and took the lid all the way off.
You then have to remove the stock hardware from the lid and the fridge for the stock hinges.
Once you have done that, you reuse the stock bolts (these are not screws) to fill in the holes.
I put the lid back on again and put back in the upper screws for the new hinges.
I then snapped close the stock latch, and all is very tight.
I did not opt to install the new clasp/lock supplied in Kevin's kit, as the stock hinge worked out fine in its original position.
Plus I will not have to modify the thermal bag by cutting a hole in it for a new clasp/lock.
Picture one below shows me holding the lid open with the fridge in the rig.
The lid hits the ceiling and will not raise up all the way.
Picture two shows the hinge on with three screws in place and a pilot hole ready for the fourth screw.
Picture three shows the new hinges in place and the lid open.
Note that the lid stays open too.
It has an adjustment screw you tighten to cause friction in the hinge, thus allowing the lid to stay open in any position.
Way cool man
Picture four shows the new hinges in place and the lid off ready for me to take off its hardware and the fridges hardware for the stock hinges.
Picture five shows the fridge back in its native environment, and the lid open as if I was going to access it for grub.
The lid clears the ceiling just fine too.
This retrofit will make an ARB or Engel fridge that more enjoyable to access the interior of it.
This kit gets the two thumbs up award
Click here for the instructions and to order the kit.
The thread on IH8MUD that started it all
Last edited by Corey; 01-30-2012 at 08:29 PM.
Nice truck. How do you like that awning?
I've never heard of that brand before. Their website makes the product look decent. Good price too compared to the others.
How does it mount? I would be mounting it to the top of my canopy.