homebuilt Subaru IRS trailer

[Erich_870]

Deepmud,

Didn't know about this thread until just now. I'm really interested in finding out which Subaru's to look for to build something similar. We have junk car days a couple times a year and I'd love to snatch the rear suspension off a junker this summer.

How far apart are the connection points for suspension to the trailer frame?

Thanks,

Erich

[deepmud]

Deepmud,

Didn't know about this thread until just now. I'm really interested in finding out which Subaru's to look for to build something similar. We have junk car days a couple times a year and I'd love to snatch the rear suspension off a junker this summer.

How far apart are the connection points for suspension to the trailer frame?

Thanks,

Erich

Early/Mid-80's - Mine is from a 2wd Wagon. I think the Wagon might have a heavier torsion spring than a Sedan or Hatchback, but I'm only guessing. The 2wd uses a spindle and cone bearing pretty much like any trailer or non-powered wheel on a car. 8 or 9 years ago, I greased the bearings, noted the damaged surface and hit the highway for the lower 48, figuring I'd be replacing them by Washington state, at least, if not sooner. They are still in there.
The 4wd rear end would require cutting the birfield cup or at least pulling the half-shaft out of it - not too difficult, I think cutting the boot and popping the balls out of it would do the job. The 4wd has a single ride-height adjuster bolt on it too.

The four bolts that hold it all together are about a foot apart - I'll get some close-up pics - I did a pretty hack-job with my hacksaw to make it fit the c-channel, but it's held up to severe over-loading and abuse for years.

[Erich_870]

I've been keeping my eyes peeled for junk Subaru's around. No luck yet

Still don't have the wife on board, so I'd have to figure something out if I found one anyway.

Erich

[alfio]

thanks for posting this! i'm thinking about a trailer project and i would like to build something on a toyota pickup bed (along the lines of this example) and your idea of using the Subie rear end would make it a) easier to deal with because once i get the frame together it would all bolt together (bed to frame, suspension to frame) and b) possibly give me better ground clearance than a solid axle + leafs.

i would have to look into dimensions because i'd want something to match the axles on my truck ('92 toyota 4x4) and into bolt pattern options because i would want to run the same rims + tires as my truck.

deepmud: i couldn't find anything online detailing dimensions, do you think (with the correct rim setup) this axle could match the 58 1/2" WMS + rims of my toyota's rear axle (if that makes any sense)?

alfio

[deepmud]

thanks for posting this! i'm thinking about a trailer project and i would like to build something on a toyota pickup bed (along the lines of this example) and your idea of using the Subie rear end would make it a) easier to deal with because once i get the frame together it would all bolt together (bed to frame, suspension to frame) and b) possibly give me better ground clearance than a solid axle + leafs.

i would have to look into dimensions because i'd want something to match the axles on my truck ('92 toyota 4x4) and into bolt pattern options because i would want to run the same rims + tires as my truck.

deepmud: i couldn't find anything online detailing dimensions, do you think (with the correct rim setup) this axle could match the 58 1/2" WMS + rims of my toyota's rear axle (if that makes any sense)?

alfio

back on post 9 I got a "close guess" of about 56" for rootmoose. You could run 1" spacers. 6 hole Toy/Chevy bolt pattern is dirt-simple, since the Suby happens to share the same bolt-circle diameter.

It would give you better clearance, for sure. I guess using the bed makes sense - it's very strong for it's weight, hard to beat it with homebuilt stuff, not mention the "cool matching look" Just try to keep total weight less than 4 or 500 unloaded so you can have decent cargo capacity.

The other option for making it wider would be to split the torsoin and re-weld it at the WMS you choose - however this raises the complexity and removes the junkyard cheap parts options.

[alfio]

back on post 9 I got a "close guess" of about 56" for rootmoose. You could run 1" spacers. 6 hole Toy/Chevy bolt pattern is dirt-simple, since the Suby happens to share the same bolt-circle diameter.

thanks, i had overlooked that post. i guess a 1" difference wouldn't be too big of a deal, especially since i usually favor skinny tires.

i know about the bolt-circle diameter from that brat page you linked and it does look very doable. my only concern (other than the fact that finding the parts is going to be a challenge around these parts) is the height.

what do you think is a possible range in terms of height? ideally i'd like to get up to the height of my truck ('92 toyota, stock height with 31"s). it's hard to guesstimate from your pics since your trailer is so overloaded in every pic and obviously it would depend on how much metal i end up putting between bed and subie suspension but do you think it could be built to match the toyota in terms of height? i may be misunderstanding the way you set yours up but it seems like with a larger diameter rim+tire and a lower mounting point for the shock, it would be feasible to match stock height on a 3rd gen toyota. or is that totally wrong and the suspension is fixed and the only way to match heights is to add more metal between the bed and the subie suspension?

sorry, don't mean to drive you crazy but since you are the expert in this area, i figured i'd ask before i go chasing subaru parts all over the midwest. thanks

alfio

[deepmud]

all 10 pics here
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/7029/66591

I guess I owe a set of real measurements, like frame width, ride height, etc.
EDIT: as for ride height - I'm going to say you might need a block of steel to "lift it" - also you can tweak the angle - which is a bit like turning up the torsion bar - which you can also do if you start w/a 4x4 rear.

[walking eagle]

I've been keeping my eyes peeled for junk Subaru's around. No luck yet


Erich

Try VW beetle - same basic set up - only a couple million of them around though....

Edit: make sure it's post '69, or '68 from an autostick though, cause you want the IRS not the swing axle. Could use a bus rear too, after '68 it's IRS, it would have a bigger weight rating and I think a little wider.

[deepmud]

Shoot I was going to link the thread about VW since it has pics but I can't find it.
But yeah - Type 3 VW is supposed to be "it" - removable, and as a bonus, you get to decide track width, it's two individual pieces. Not a bad option, especially if you happen to be in an area with more VW stuff than Subaru stuff to choose from .

[walking eagle]

Not a bad option, especially if you happen to be in an area with more VW stuff than Subaru stuff to choose from .

What area DOESN'T have more VW stuff than Subaru?