Stich and glue for storage?

[rusty_tlc]

Stitch and Glue boat construction

What does the community think about making your own storage out of 1/8 Luan and stitch and glue construction?

I was thinking it might be a good way to get boxes that maximize available space.

I like Apple boxes for camping but sometimes they are the wrong size for the space available. I'd use the same design for my custom boxes.


I'm looking for feed back before I go off on a tangent so post up your ideas, positive and negative.

[ThomD]

I'd think 1/8 Luan would be pretty flexible on the sides and the corners would need to be reinforced. The thing to remember about boats is that they normally don't have point loading. Storeage boxes on the other hand...

[bigreen505]

I think it is a bad idea. Try ply wood instead. If you really want to do this, use a strong wood at least 3/16" thick, and laminate with at least one layer of 10z glass and epoxy (s-glass is best, e-glass is probably ok). As Thom pointed out, boats rarely are damaged in the water, they are damaged on land when a panel is point loaded.

[jh504]

I built a kayak this year using a fiberglass stitch and glue method. With the fiberglass I did not actually stitch the seams but I attatched them with resin and fiberglass tape. I then used fiberglass sheets to cover the rest of the boat. I used 1/4" luan and it is pretty dang stronge with the fiberglass reinforcement. It also gives you a smooth finish that you can paint or coat with whatever.
I built a storage box for my Jeep out of 1/2" plywood a few months ago and I have been considering covering it in fiberglass and resin to make it more durable and waterproof. Its amazing what a few layers of glass will do.

[compactcamping]

The stitch and glue method is great for kayaks where all your joints are curved and lightweight is important. For boxes yes it would works but IMHO is overkill. I would use a cabinet or marine grade plywood. For light duty boxes I'd use 1/4 - 3/8" plywood with a glue and screw corner block construction. For heavier duty boxes I'd use 1/2 -3/4" with pocket screw construction and maybe a corner block or two in critical locations.

A penetrating epoxy like CPES is great for sealing plywood boxes. Because it isn't UV stable it will need to be top coat.

[bigreen505]

I'm not completely sure, but I think one of the West System hardeners is UV stable, 208 or 209.

[compactcamping]

Bill, I actually use a lot of West Systems epoxy. Their 207 hardner, designed for clear wood finishes, does have a UV inhibiting additive, although their usage guide notes that the cured epoxy will still require additional UV protection.

For sealing wood, a penetrating epoxy like CPES is better, it has the consistency of water and is readily absorbed. An epoxy like West Systems has the consistency of syrup and isn't absorbed as deeply in the wood.

[bigreen505]

Good to know. Are there any compatibility issues between them? E.g. laying up glass with west over wood prepped with CPES?

[compactcamping]

If the plan is a fiberglass covered box, I would forgo the CPES step. The glass / epoxy coating will seal it fine. Although epoxy will bond to CPES that has been fully cured, normally 2-5 days. Use CPES as a base coat where you expect moisture in external applications and want a clear finish on wood.

[jh504]

When I sealed my boat I applied a first coat of polyurethane resin, diluted with acetone, directly to the wood. It soaked in great and seemed to seal it up well. I then applied the fiberglass on top of that.