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Corey

OverCamping Specialist
11540107213_1e8d27ef79_b.jpg


11574778563_83f5c99666_b.jpg
Questions for you two guys.
I have been reading my "Dummies for Canon Rebel T5i" book lately since getting my camera, and I take it your first shot was shot landscape since all is in focus, and the second one was shot in portrait mode since the front is in focus, and the background is out of focus?

Woot! did my first star trail shot ever! Not bad for my first attempt. Clouds rolled in though so only got one sadly..


IMG_7740.jpg by Phull Mon-T Photos, on Flickr
I need to learn how to set mine up so when camping I can set it up on a tripod, and enter the correct info to make a long exposure.
I know I can take the ISO up to around 12K or higher, and I am suppose to open the aperture full too so it takes a long exposure to get the trailing star effect?
Guy at work told me if I am taking a night shot of the stars I must include a tree or something so the lens has a close focal point, as it cannot focus on just the stars alone?
I am new to the whole DSRL thing.
 

Every Miles A Memory

Expedition Leader
Corey, if doing night time photography and especially star trails, you'll have to usually shut your auto-focus off and manually focus. I usually focus to infinity, then come back off just a smidge (Very Technical Term right there)

Remember that anything 30 seconds or below will keep crisp stars, but once you go over the 30 second time frame and go to a bulb shot, you'll start to get movement in the stars. You usually have to go for quite awhile to get long trails, and it's best to point it towards the North Star so the stars create circular trails in the image.

If doing really long exposures, then you dont have to have a high ISO or you'll more than likely blow out the image. But it all depends on what the scene is and how bright the surrounding area is you're shooting in

Best thing to do is take a bunch of practice shots and pay attention to what the difference is in your settings and what each setting is offering you
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Thanks Pat, my Canon 18-135mm lens has a switch on it to take off the AF.
I need to find out how to get it to go for a minute on the exposure.
And what is a bulb shot?
Flash?
I would think flash would ruin it?
Some of these terms I am not up on yet.
 

graynomad

Photographer, traveller
And what is a bulb shot?
Bulb used to refer to a flash bulb, but it just means that you hold the shutter open as long as your finger is on the button. Of course in this case you don't literally have you finger on the button, you use a cable release.

I'm not familiar with your exact camera but if you cycle through the exposure modes you should see "bulb" as an option. Best to read the manual I think, that should explain it well.

I would think flash would ruin it?
Using flash during the exposure is quite valid depending on what's in the foreground. For example maybe you want to illuminate an old building while recording the star trails.

Many Canon lenses have the annoying "feature" of focusing past infinity so you can't just rack the lens out until it stops, you have to "back off just a smidge" as Pat said. Another way to to it is to focus before it gets dark, and don't touch it after that.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
My night time images are not there yet, so I'll be quiet, and just smile and nod at what the others are saying. However, with regards to your other question about Modes, I can simplify for you. Depth of field is a function of Aperature. The smaller the number, the shorter the "in focus" range will be. To zoom in on a flower petal, shoot F2.8. To shoot the Grand Caynon, shoot F11 or higher.

Now, Aperature is really about light, and determining how much light hits the sensor. If you are wide open, letting tons of light through (F2.8), then you need to limit the amount of time the light hits the sensor or else the photo will be hopelessly blown out and overexposed. Set your camera to P-mode and dial in the desired Aperature to establish depth of field, and the camera will take care of shutter speed, exposure, white balance, etc...
 

Rattler

Thornton Melon's Kid
My Canon T2i will let the shutter stay open until I press it again when it is in Bulb Mode. Good advice from Pat/every Mile. I have experimented some with night/star shots doing pretty much what Pat says and had positive results. Its a matter of having a better lens in my case.

I did pick up a timer/intervalmeter a bit ago that should be fun to play with on star shots.

Questions for you two guys.
I have been reading my "Dummies for Canon Rebel T5i" book lately since getting my camera, and I take it your first shot was shot landscape since all is in focus, and the second one was shot in portrait mode since the front is in focus, and the background is out of focus?


I need to learn how to set mine up so when camping I can set it up on a tripod, and enter the correct info to make a long exposure.
I know I can take the ISO up to around 12K or higher, and I am suppose to open the aperture full too so it takes a long exposure to get the trailing star effect?
Guy at work told me if I am taking a night shot of the stars I must include a tree or something so the lens has a close focal point, as it cannot focus on just the stars alone?
I am new to the whole DSRL thing.

Pat gave me a great recommendation. Pick up the Scott Kelby Training books. They are an excellent source for us beginners.
 
Last edited:

photoman

Explorer
I love shooting at night!! I can give you a cool little trick if your lens has the switch to move from manual to auto. Have it on auto focus and then adjust your focus points to one point (selective focus). Focus on the moon or brightest star then move the switch back to manual. As long as you dont bump the lens you are focused to infinity. :ylsmoke:

For star trails there are lots of techniques. Some people will shoot an hour long exposure or more to get the full circle and others shoot multiple 8-12 minute shots over multiple hours and then stack them in Photoshop. I have shot up to 40 minutes and let me tell you that is a long time to wait for a photo! I suggest having a 2nd camera and tripod so you can shoot other images while waiting for the one. I personally like the range of 15-25 minutes as it provides enough movement to get the effect without it being the full circle. I also love shooting with moonlight- anywhere from half to full depending on the location. The gallery link below is all night photography.

http://aaronnewman.smugmug.com/Portfolio-Home/Scapes/Nightscapes-1

This shot is at midnight with 3/4 moon and streaking clouds.
IMG_8933-L.jpg

ISO 400
F11
6 minute exposure
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
Thanks guy's for all the tips here.
Will def be reading up on this, and the bulb thing.
I do not have the corded shutter release thing, but I did by the Canon wireless remote for the camera, will see if that also works for hitting the shutter twice too like Rattler did so as not to bump the camera by pressing the regular button.
 

Rattler

Thornton Melon's Kid
I got the latest edition of Popular Photography and there is an article (I am yet to read) about night photography in it.
 

Guri

Explorer
This shot is at midnight with 3/4 moon and streaking clouds.
IMG_8933-L.jpg

ISO 400
F11
6 minute exposure

Did you Photoshop this picture?(besides of the signature). I'm really impressed by your picture sir :)
I like to take pictures, but I'm learning how to...
 

Blackdawg

Dr. Frankenstein
Questions for you two guys.
I have been reading my "Dummies for Canon Rebel T5i" book lately since getting my camera, and I take it your first shot was shot landscape since all is in focus, and the second one was shot in portrait mode since the front is in focus, and the background is out of focus?


I need to learn how to set mine up so when camping I can set it up on a tripod, and enter the correct info to make a long exposure.
I know I can take the ISO up to around 12K or higher, and I am suppose to open the aperture full too so it takes a long exposure to get the trailing star effect?
Guy at work told me if I am taking a night shot of the stars I must include a tree or something so the lens has a close focal point, as it cannot focus on just the stars alone?
I am new to the whole DSRL thing.

Thanks guy's for all the tips here.
Will def be reading up on this, and the bulb thing.
I do not have the corded shutter release thing, but I did by the Canon wireless remote for the camera, will see if that also works for hitting the shutter twice too like Rattler did so as not to bump the camera by pressing the regular button.



sorry im so late.

but here, use this, it helped me a lot.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yxkrzjbe4orxup/startrails.pdf


To really use bulb mode, get an InfraRed remote. All i did. Cost 10 buck off amazon just tigger the camera and keep an eye on the stop watch.

also, to help with focusing, leave it on auto and during the day, focus on the moon. Then take some painters tape or gaffers tape and tape the focus ring so it won't turn. then put it on manual focus and boom! set for the night!

High ISO's should only be used for star photos like this.


IMG_7747.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

these are shots will "faster" shutter speeds usually 30 seconds. Mine was at iso3200, f3.5, 18mm, 30 seconds for that shot.


for the star trail one i was at iso 200 f4.0, 18mm and 20 mins. I would have gone to about 40 minutes..but the clouds moved in :( so i cut it short.


hope that helps!
 

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